Naptown Dave

Oh yeah! Are you going to try to tuck them or do flares as well?

I think your flex line is ok as long as the bleeder screw is above the flex line inlet on the caliper. I would bet a stack you have air trapped in the calipers. Remove the calipers and turn them so the bleed screw is the highest point and bleed again. I got a bunch of air out of mine even after doing the same thing while gravity bleeding, mine needed the flow of the pressure bleeder to push out the air. Take the caps off the master and watch the fluid level as you pump up the brakes, you'll see the level drop in the master if you have air in either the front or back systems. Mine only needed the back but it was enough to have a soft pedal.

50% may be a little light!! Yeah I've decided to hang my purse up in the closet and quit bitching about going to Hawaii. Moving up to a 2.8? Are you going n/a or f/I? Your car is nice, tight and clean I'm sure you'll do well with it however way you go.

Daphur, sorry to threadjack earlier! Have you made any progress? One thing I noticed that helped me isolate my problem (air in the caliper) was my fluid level dropping in my rear master as I pumped the brake and then slowly returning as the trapped air pushed the fluid back ti the m/c. Like I said above I ended up using a homemade pressure bleeder and removing the calipers from thethe mounts so I could get all the air out of them. Basically turning them so the bleed screw was at the highest point. If you don't have much flow to th back that may make getting a good bleed tough. There have been some posts about the safety switch on the drivers side inner fender going bad and not allowing fluid flow to both the front and back, you may want to look into that as well. I'm no expert but do have some recent experience!

Looks great to me! Let us know how they sound.

I'm torn between being happy I'm too far away to help and wishing I could help out!

Yeah I can swim about 100 yards total a day! Construction superintendent working at pearl harbor. I have a headlight, maybe two tomorrow, and running lights in the back but not sure about brake lights

Yeah this car sat in a field for a few years before the guy I got it from picked it up. No engine, dry rotted tires a mouse I had to evict the whole 9 yards. I had never even ridden in in a Z until a week or so ago (thanks Madkaw!). I still have some body work on the front end, clean up the wiring, repair/replace heater core and valve and interior installation yet to do. I bought this car at the end of october last year and have been working out of town for half of that time so I feel pretty good about my progress. I wanted to be roadworthy by the end of october this year. Unfortunately I have to go to Hawaii from the second week of october till the end of november, I may have to adjust my definition of roadworthy.

Keith, I think your first answer is the best. I don't think I can register the car until I have unimportant stuff like lights, horn, turn signals, etc so any shake down runs will be outside the law. Matt I only ran about a mile so far. I was hyper sensitive so any road or rock noise was a sure sign of complete drivetrain failure! Ill put a few miles on it tomorrow hopefully my adrenaline won't be at 120%!

I did grab a 10# fire extinguisher before my maiden voyage! I had to fight the urge to stop and pop the hood and hose it down when that brake fluid really started cooking. I am going to trim and roll the front valance a little tonight to fit my tires and try to isolate some of the cabin rattles so I can listen to the driveline. Anything I should be on the lookout for?

Done been driven! I took it easy around the neighborhood, my front tires were rubbing the chin like crazy at any turns that's gonna have to be clearanced. And the brake fluid spilled on my headers added to the smoky ambiance.

I think I finally got my brake bleeding issues taken care of last night. 2 gallons of dot and at least 30 hours later I have a firm pedal. I think I had about the same amount of time building my headers and exhaust! Going to go thru my suspension and driveline tonight torquing bolts and throw the brake lights and wheels on and go for a spin. Indianapolis Metro Police please stay out of my neighborhood from 8-10pm, thanks.

Well the pressure bleed with removing the calipers and rotating and tapping did the trick. I pulled the calipers while gravity bleeding and it didn't help. It seems like there may be a little room for improvement but the pedal doesn't hit the floor with the engine running. A few more good hours and I'll be terrorizing the neighborhood!

That swimming pool idea is sounding better! After running the first gallon thru I started recycling it! I figure I've flushed any crap out of the lines by now and will probably run a new bottle through if I ever get any pedal on this thing.

I have a similar setup except I have a 1" Wilwood master. I have bled the hell out of the lines. Vacuum bled, gravity bled, set up a recirculating line back to my M/C with a check valve at the bleeder and finally last night set up a pressure bleeder using a garden sprayer, clear hose and an old M/C cap. I have 7 one quart bottles of fluid in my garage and at least one of them has been emptied on the floor for various reasons! It looks like the fronts are firm but in the back the master starts to empty as I pump the pedal and then fills back up slowly after pumping, to me that means I still have air trapped in the back lines. I am going to pressure bleed the backs again, after getting the 8th bottle of fluid (2 gallons total!). I think I will try to pressurize the system and open both bleeders at once to see if I can flow any more air out. I did check the reaction disc and blocked off the outlets to the M/C to make sure it's not leaking through, it builds pressure instantly and doesn't fall off. I'm not 100% sure my M/C push rod is set correctly but if anything it is set a little short so I would think that if all the lines are free of air I would have a solid pedal, just a little lower than expected. I have about 30 hrs into trying to get my brakes working and I am getting more than a little frustrated. I think I have tried everything that I have seen on the interweb, does anyone have any suggestions if the pressure bleed doesn't work tonight?

I can't remember the specifics but I read on ls1tech some guys have damaged either their trans or shifter by pushing through the lockout. Wolsten tech innovations makes a timed relay that looks pretty slick for $30. Add a push button switch, an inline fuse and some wire and you'd be in business

I was going to pull power to the lockout from my brake lights but now I'm going to look to see if I can track down a timed momentary pushbutton switch. Mcmaster carr here I come

The output stub/flange from the diff right? I have a set from a 75 R200

I cut the metric nut off the Datsun clevis and welded on one that fit the wilwood rod so I have plenty of adjustment. I noticed my wheels would turn a little when putting it in gear and then stop, I assumed it was the syncros.

After messing around with it for 3hrs last night I went to autozone to try to get a pressure bleeder but they didn't have one so I got the mityvac. It feels good now, we'll have to see how it fairs in the next couple days. On to the brakes...

Answered my own question, ran the rod out about 3 turns and it's working. Wheels don't turn while in gear and the pedal floored. Is there anything else I should be looking for?

Keith, I'm going to put you on the spot. I know you have had more experience bleeding your clutch than you would like to have had. I've bled the s#!t out of mine and it feels really firm and only get the smallest of bubbles while cracking the screw but it will only disengage the clutch enough to just let it into gear, the wheels still turn with the pedal down(still on stands). I have a Wilwood 7/8" MC and a LS7 clutch. I used a mityvac to get to where I am now and finished with running my bleeder line up above the MC and pulling a vaccum on the bleeder while cracking it and pumping the pedal. I don't know if that makes sense but I feel pretty good about have as much air out of the system as possible. My thought is that the actuator rod is not extended enough. I was thinking about removing the pedal return spring and moving the pedal until I feel a little hydraulic resistance and then adjusting the rod out to a point slightly less than where I feel the resistance. Does that sound like a good idea? I've read about guys blowing out their slave with too much fluid.

That's for sure! I tried with a floor jack but couldn't manuever it into place. Kind of a long story but I was fighting a stubborn CV and finally pulled the diff to get it in and wasn't about to take it out to install the diff.

I pulled and put my diff back in with the CVs attached, I thought it was gonna kill me. I put it on my lap and then slid under the car and did some pelvic thrusts until I got it started in the moustach bar. I was sore for days!

I'm in, you're gonna leave your drivetrain in right?