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BRAD D

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Everything posted by BRAD D

  1. My car is running, and the clutch is not fully engaging. I am using a RB25 clutch slave, and an OS twin plate clutch hooked up to th e stock clutch master cylinder. What master cylinder can i swap in to give my clutch slave more travel? My slave cylinder says 3/4 on the side of it...
  2. Looks like they are 50% more then CCW's I wish CCW would make some wheeels that looked like the K17's
  3. are you using 8" coils in the rear so you can fit a wider tire/rim? That is what I will do soon
  4. More side wall on the 16's will help your launch in racing but 17 will look better and handle better. I think
  5. It should be cast aluminum, you aren't going to polish it are you 8)
  6. It is an R33 Skyline with an RB26DETT
  7. http://www.kobeatch.com/movies/cars/dynos/jumpoff.mpeg WOW, I wish I had that problem
  8. There are people running 400+ HP on L28 stock mounts and ther are thin stampeg steel
  9. I think 295$ is a good price. I make them for 100$ but they are not as nice as that. Mine are welded with laser cut flanges and use the stock rubber mounts. ?
  10. http://www.cvsr.net/createaride20.html
  11. I sand balst then POR-15 works good so far
  12. It was a 89 BMW you can not compare that to a 2003 Z06 2003 M3 to a 2003 Z06 you can compare. I would get a M3 because there are to many Z06's around, but then again i hear the M3's motor's are letting go
  13. BRAD D

    Project car

    I think the 2JZ would be harder, because the exhaust is on the other side not like the L6. But that might not be a big problem. But you might not have the oil pan problems on the other hand. It has been done
  14. Not easy but it has been done.
  15. Well this would be a pain in the a$$ but it could be done. If you dont know the front diff is built into the RB26's oil pan. So you could cut up the pan and move the diff more to the front of the motor weld it up and just lengthen the driveshaft.
  16. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17147 Here is a link to a post I made
  17. It is not hard to make I had to cut the hole in the back of my car bigger to fit the tip. As for sound I had this 3" exhaust on my stock L24 and man was it loud, but turbos should keep it quit. When the RB is up and running I will let you know how loud it is. Here is a better photo
  18. It is a Dynomax UltraFlow with a Ricer tip welded on to it. But my trick was to mount the muffler as high up as it could go then weld the tip on. So the tip is low on the exit hole of the muffler. This way the muffler dose not hang out the bottom of the car, like you see on a lot of Z's
  19. Hey I have a 4" tip, but the exhaust is a SS 3" system so that is not too bad of a jump up.
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