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I think you should look at british market for JDM engine. I can feel your pain, we have here in finland maybe even more tight regulations with cars. I can go +20% with power, +25% displacement and so on. Not funny at all. That is main reason i went to SR. It just fit with regulations, but i can always tune it. Lets say double the horses for a start...😁

Seems like you have same sort of plans with Z that i have. Fast and reliable weekend/holiday car. I went to SR20DET mainly because of weight and weight distribution. If i would think now, i would also consider VQ30DET(T). With two small and easy spooling turbos it might be great engine. Of course it has to be JDM rwd engine and needs some custom fabrication. Intake is as silly as VQ35, but these engines are quite cheap.

I have a strong feeling about M14x1.5 Not 100% but i can check tomorrow.

Take a look into my build and you get an idea. Wheel bolt pattern is same as S30, mine has 5-lug with more options with wheels. There are plenty of aftermarket spindles, so you can play almost everything with them. And ofc. control arms, brakes, etc.

I think you should consider diffrent spindles. I have in my car S13 front spindles and ofc. S13 front coils though. With "only" 9" wheels ET35 i have nearly zero scrub.

Sure you can extend them to back. There is even aftermarket bits to lenghten them. " baddog frame rails" I can't find any reason why they don't should not be extend. I have done that with square tube front to end.

Not really suspension swap, but something. Strut suspension is´t so bad, in fact it is like double whisbone with infinity long upper arm. Roll center ~60mm above ground, caster ~7 deg, KPI ~15 deg, near zero scrub radius, and ofc. abjustable camber. What kind of better geometry you have in mind?

My car looks like this: If you mount engine as near firewall that is possible, you ended up with gear lever like this. It is several centimeters more rear than originally. I have already flipped shifter other way around, when it leads more forward. Shifter isn´t straight you know.

So, the prop shaft. I did some research with youtube and get into it. Short piece of S13´s front prop and longer piece of rear prop. Joint to joint 608mm. 10mm clearance. I did piece of tube inside to guide those ends straight, and welded them together in lathe. Then some heating there and here, checking with dial indicator. Some errors and found a place to weld piece of metal to balancing front end. Back en was ok, of course, there were no modifications. I don´t have pics, except ready shaft. But i made some kind of tool to get this thing into lathe. I get back to work in a weekend so more then if anybody intrested... It´s just big live centre with welded flange. There is a welding seam pointed with arrow.

1x3 fits better of course, and 2x3 will be much stiffer. I think if you do like i did, rail can be lifted inside the car much more. So i would go to 2x3 and get stiffnes ( and much more work)

Working just fine, thanks a lot! Just finished prop shaft. it´s made S13 parts. Just piece of front shaft and piece of rear shaft welded together. I try get some pics for tomorrow.

I did my frame rails 30x60mm square tube. But my rails are partly inside car, floor pan is welded to rail sides. Look at my build topic, if it's working....

There should be caster 1/2 amount of KPI. Said some bloke in a book. Therefore i'm aiming ~7deg. caster. When you have caster half of KPI, camber in steering should be decent.

I did, shortening sort of. Moved brackett up in shaft so shaft moved down in engine compartment. Upper mount is just slipped to shaft, so it can move or even reversible.

Cant even add here it´s link, because it won´t work either. It is called "Arttu´s 240Z" depending browser, chrome says: too many redirecting, edge says: cannot reach the page and so on.. Please try somebody, I can´t open it even I´m not logged in. -Arttu

I would get near 50/50 with masters and use balance bar with fine adjustment.

It doesn´t tell you what size masters you need straight away. But you can test different sizes with this. There are not so many size of masters, just try different sizes and you see chances immediately. it takes really a few minutes.

http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/info/brake_calculators.shtml#MaxGBraking Try this. I`v got skyline 4-pots front and 2-pot calibers rear. With wilwood pedal assembly. Calculator gives .75 and .625 masters.

Yep, pic is bit dark, but same spot.

U mean like this. Subframe should be near original angle, i belive. Btw. i have dropped LCA:s front pickup point quite lot, to reduce anti-squat.

Does this help you out with calculations? I think i got pretty decent subframe height.

As i say, i went to S13 coilovers. It´s probably not an easiest way to go. Look at these pics and my previous post.

Let´s see, engine is almost done. OIl pan get´s maybe little modification and alternator bracket isn´t done yet. Also exhaust manifold is still on drawing board, i´ll wait until engine is in the bay. Little bit specs: stock internals, ceramic coated pistons and combustions. new Gti-R oil pump and bearings new water pump cometic head gasket 0.040" CR~9.0 squish ~0.9mm slightly modified valve pockets and throats BC cams, ti-retainers, springs, cam sprockets naprec stronger head chain, new latest model tensioner, dual guide modification vag coil packs, etc. turbo will be borgwarner/holset hybrid, dynoed in other engine ~570hp Steering column is moved more to engine bay, by 2" because i didn´t want wheel so close to my nose. Wheel is Nardi classic 350mm, with NRG short hub and quick release. New steering bush is made from hockey puck. Right now i´m thinking to move those gauges to the center of steering wheel. When i get steering wheel center with my seat, gauges weren´t center with steering wheel.

This was a bad idea from beginning, IMO.

Steering column and steering wheel is solved. Engine is almost done, thats about it. Been busy with othèr things lately. I'll get back to it asap.