TUME

My version, square tube welded between firewall and roll cage tube. Pedals are bolted into those tubes and firewall. Crappy pic, sorry.

Bacically everything in suspension is compromice, some solutions are better than others, but not necessarily all ways. Are we talking about strut suspension. If so, within "normal" SAI-angles can be used angles somewhat zero and up. Or down, if you think about control arm. Remember measure angles by pivot points. Widening track affects weight tranfers, and by that spring load and wheel rate depending suspension type. Widening both ends same amount is a safe way. If you not sure what you are doing.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122915-welder-tools-rotisserie-advice/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1151443 Not entirely wood, but U got the point. Simple is beautiful...

I have raised inner pick-up point over an inch. But that is different story because i have S13 knucles etc. I also raised whole crossmember, so it doesn´t affect bump steering. Main point was to archieve decent roll center height. It should be now about 3in above ground level. After that bump steering will deleted with tie rod end. In picture, control arm is close to it`s position when car is on wheels.

I think i know these cars. I have owned an S13 now for 15 years and S30 5 years. Unless you haven´t notice, i have S30 crossmember and steering rack, with custom LCA´s S13 knucles and coilovers. So, can i say: i have S13 front suspension. Without moving anything. Well, maybe i moved crossmember, but only couple of centimeters. Can´t say for sure, i don´t know original position any more. But my wheels are middle of wheel well. SR20 fits nice behind all that. Crossmember are cut a little bit, nothing major. Knucles are swapped side to side, because that steering rack, and turning arms are modified for ackerman.

I´d say more like S13 front suspension can be done, but steering doesn´t fit because rear steer. Btw, what is S13 front suspension. I have S13 coilovers and knucles. Control arms something between S30 and S13. Does it count?

I think I have this covered.

Working with dash continues. Made a glove-box out of aluminium sheet, original door and lock. Takes several hours.... Also original vents fits fine on that new dash. Had to cut them because again roll cage tube comes away.

That front suspension is not going to work. You have two turning points on upside of axle. Shock is turnin it's upper mount aswell knucle bearing. That extra mount is reducing shock moving inwards when suspension moves. You gonna need some kind of upper arm with it. Like this, or other idea; weld that knucle to that upper mount so it can´t turn there. Other issue is steering, when you have front steering rack, steering arms can't be that way. Well, they can but you have anti-ackerman effect on your steering.

My poor memory says about 1,2 meter, or 4 feet in your units. And yes, it's a freebie....

Couple of 2x4´s and some scrap metal will do the job....

I made custom brackets on top and ends, bottom mount is attached to original brackets on top of gearbox tunnel. There are lot's of bracket's here and there, hoping to get it free of reconances.

You mean alignment, it's possible. I mean what happens when suspension moves. Looks like you have lots of squat and toe in when inbound.

I have a feeling that you messed up suspension geometry big time....

About that control arm, as you can quess, I remembered wrong. Lenght is 370mm, bolt to bolt. Or bolt to ball joint, for precisely. I´ve been lately working with glass-fiber dash. Really a pain in the ass, to build mounts to that. Maybe it´s now decent, with 7 bolts and maybe some screws will added too... This dash is just a cover, so you must build everything from nothing, and roll cage is not helping. Good thing is lightness, I think it weights about 2 kilos when empty.

Main reason was oil pan. SR-engines is very difficult modify to rear-sump. Also it was easier to build tension rod mounts like that, rather to build them totally different place. In fact, those are not S13 flca´s, they are made by my own thoughts to fit this setup. In fact I don´t even know how these compare to S13´s arms. They are close, I think. If I don´t remember totally wrong these are ~340mm long, bolt to bolt. And of course, adjustable. Crossmember bolt hole is moved only because front geometry, ie. roll center height.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120418-arttu%C2%B4s-240z-never-ready/?do=findComment&comment=1127569

Been there, done that. So has "Mull" etc. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51969-1971-n1-rb26-240z-project-hugo/?hl=%2Bproject+%2Bhugo Pretty much like you said. Level the car, on rockers. I made it upside down. After that i made new frame and after that weld it back to chassis. Or fenderwells and floor, to be precise. Btw, as you can see i made it 40x60mm tube, because i wanted raise the crossmember, to get better geometry to front suspension. Also did those tension rod mounts to chassis little different.

Don´t know how much chance you need to notice a difference. But there is a rule of thumb, caster 1/2 of amount of SAI. Therefore i made this. Btw, you should measure lenght of strut from balljoint to top of strut.

Is it helping? I mean does those 280 style vents really working?

Why are you wanting positive camber, or just misunderstandig. I would stay on negative side, not that much, though... Spacer between knucle and coilover bottom mount only gives you space between tire and coilover. What matter is pivot points i.e strut upper mount and balljoint. If you are only on reduce camber, why not adjust on coilover bottom mount and knucle bolt. Something like this Or just shorten LCA, I assume you have camber adjusted plates on strut upper mount.

What kind of LCA are you using? Mine is custom and widens front track. My front rim is 8" wide only and et35. It comes even with ZG-flare. That is main reason why i moved strut upper mount, to get decent geometry. Now i have 7 degrees caster and 14-15 degrees of sai. If you have tons of sai, you lose camber when turning wheels.

You're welcome, if there is something you want to know, please ask.

I think my crossmember if little further front than stock. This is because more room for oilpan and more caster. Other hand must keep wheel quite center of wheelwell. I think my wheelbase is couple of cm longer than stock. so i didn't care about original place of crossmember, just put it were it seems a good place.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120418-arttu´s-240z-never-ready/#entry1127576 My solution, S13 knucles, but basically same.