djwarner

For those interested, I just posted some almost done photos on the Classic Z Car S30 Interiors forum.

Remove the Dizzy and try to turn the shaft. I'll bet the woodruff key locking the drive gear on to the crank is sheared or missing.

If you re-read the web page, you will see the line is no longer available.

If you only need the passenger side, check this out - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-280Z-70-76-Window-Regulator-Passenger-Right-Side-PERFECT-/261676520299?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ced22d36b&vxp=mtr

Actually I found the H4 shells at a Carlisle Event they hold twice a year in Zephyrhills FL. You should be able to find them at any such meet. Comparing to HID lights in modern cars, the newer models have a sharper upper boundary on their light pattern but these will easily light road signs more than a 1/4 mile away. And no one has flashed me to lower my beams yet. All in all, I'm satisfied and like the classic look.

I recently installed these in an H4 7" headlight shells: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271536238885?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I chose these because the cooling fins will fit within the headlight buckets. I did have to mount the ballast and connectors outside the bucket. Another reason for these were the MKR chips that are significantly brighter than others.

It would be helpful to download an Owner's Manual. Quoting: "Engine Warm - If the engine is relatively warm, the choke may not be used. Just depress the accelerator pedal down about one-quarter of its full stroke, and turn the ignition key to "START". When the engine starts running under its own power, release the key, It will spring back to the "ON" position automatically." "Engine Cold (Cold Weather) - With a cold engine, pull out the choke control lever all the way, depress the accelerator pedal slightly, and start the engine. As soon as the engine starts, return the choke control lever in far enough to keep the engine running smoothly. Then push it in all the way when the temperature gauge pointer begins to move toward its normal operating range. Do not drive steadily with the choke control lever pulled out. This may result in excessive fuel consumption." What this does not say is to release the accelerator pedal to prevent over revving the engine. These instructions were fairly standard for carbureted engines.

AAH so. That does it. I never scroll down on the first forum page. That's why I missed it.

With which browser? I am using IE 11 on my desk top and Safari on my iPad. Samo-samo with Chrome. Jumping to last entry it shows something 6 days ago.

I'm a big fan of "view new content". But since the recovery, it appears to ignore the fact that we are logged in and displays everything in reverse chronological order. It doesn't stop at the last time l logged in.

The talents that make you successful in a technical area are not the same skills necessary to run a successful business. .... And certainly not the same skills necessary to design a website. For a marketing start-up, I've seen much worse websites. I wish him success. We can all use another Z resource.

Looking at the photos, is the Topstage Logo going to be there? Considering the depth of the instrument circles and the lack of side panels, it looks more like a dash cover rather than a replacement, correct?

Wix is a manufacturer of oil filters with a very good reputation.. Interestingly, the original fuel filters that came from Nissan also acted as a fuel/water separator. When I bought my first new car, a 2 door 510, the dealer taught me to examine the bottom of the fuel filter (they had clear plastic bodies then). Water would not pass through the filter material and would accumulate there. If I found water, I was told to remove the filter and turn it upside down, blow through the outlet tube to expel the water. Since I was in the Air Force at the time and was familiar with water condensation in aircraft fuel tanks, this became a routine check every time I opened the hood.

This raises another question that has been bugging me. My Series I has the original 140psig gauge and the sender was leaking when I bought the car. A trip to the local auto supply store sourced a compatible sender. Later I found out that the original sender part number was superseded with the same part number as the ones found on Series II and later cars. Still later, I found out that the shop instructions state to also replace the gauge with a 90psig when replacing with the superseded sender. This makes sense for the then modern model car, but sucks when trying to restore a 43 year old car and desire to keep the original gauge. From what I can tell, the original sender was a 10 Bar sender (10 atmospheres or 145psig) and the replacement sender is a 6 Bar sender (87 psig). So what readings do I get when I use a 6 Bar sender and a 10 Bar gauge? I did find a modern 6 bar sender that had the following specs: 6-8psig open circuit (this explains why our gauges go to zero when idling after a hot run). 15 psig - 50-79 ohms, 70 psig - 10-30 ohms, 90 psig - 8-22 ohms. I have no idea what the original sender specs were, but the 6 Bar specs seem pretty loose. Does any one have specs for the 10 Bar sender? Or better yet, does anyone know of a suitable sender from a different model/make?

Have you made any progress? I look at the cracks in mine every day and get tempted to try a West Marine 610 epoxy repair. But deep down a voice keeps telling me to wait for you. I seem to remember someone scoring a NOS dash somewhere in the last year. Was it Ebay?

Since there is a rubber diaphragm under spring pressure inside, I would advise against adding heat.

I don't know about the later years, but my Series I car is prewired for fog lights and step lamps. The bullet connectors for these are buried inside the wire bundles. The easiest ones to verify are the ones in the wire bundle near the horns. Though the Series I never came with an electric fuel pump, mine had one added later with kludged up wiring. Had since been disconnected. When I had the dash out for crack repairs, I thoroughly went through all the wiring and I seem to remember some provision for an electric pump. Since I didn't have one to worry about, I didn't pay too much attention.

In this video Leno explained the bezels in the hood for this car were originally vents until the marketing people got a hold of it. Seems the Stingray had a nasty habit of getting light in the nose around 100 mph. (Sound familiar?) The hood vents were designed to spill high pressure under the car. Has this been tried on our Zs? To what success?

Road rage is becoming more and more common these days. Who knows why he got pissy, but you're lucky to only get a face full of diesel smoke instead of a 45. At any rate, it reflects on his deficiencies, not yours. I've learned it's best to see these guys through my windshield rather than in the rear view mirror.

Actually I'm running Windows 7 64 bit under the latest IE.

I've had this problem as well. It's particularly frustrating went trying to paste a website link.

Went back and took a good look at the label next to the hazard switch. On the early dash, the on-off label area was not recessed but the surface under the label appears flat and smooth. I can't say whether the smooth appearance was from the thickness of the label or if the underlying surface was actually that smooth. As rturbo 920 said the later dashes had this area recessed.

My series I, 12/70 build also has two indents and only the lower one was used to hold the hazard switch. I believe the other opening was intended for a fog light switch. Fog lights were prewired near this location. There is also flat pad to the right of the hazard switch for an on/off label. As for the concave surfaces on the sides, I have concave sections near the A pillars to provide about 3/8" clearance. As for the lower portions, I have some warping but appears to be a function of age - not function. The area is backed by foam and is quite compliant. If you left the mold flat near the bottom, you would not incur any functional problems.

They also have webbing in the seat bottoms, not springs.