dan5138

I think it would look neat if you got the placement just right. Perhaps even couple it with an old school datsun emblem badge. Using a Nissan tailgate would look neat too if the letters weren't HUGE.

You said the engine sounded better with the plug on #6 injector removed. I would remove #5 and #6 injector plugs, and see what the engine sounds like. The only abnormal thing at this point is the engine should be missing noticably. How old are the injectors? Once the old ones start to go they can get pretty loud. When I first got my '76 it sounded like someone had the valves adjusted way slopy, and it ran rough. Replaced the injectors and it runs and sounds great now.

I have a full lock set from a '78 280Z. The tumblers and ignition *should* fit in a '76. I plan on shaving my car anyway... Just PM me if you are interested.

Hmm these were probably brazed or welded originally. If you have access to an oxy acetelyene torch and some 15% silver brazing rod, it should work quite nicely. I personally haven't had good experience trying to solder steel with the stuff intended for copper.

Check out California craigslist. Lots of 70-75 Z's for 3k or less.

Dumb nissan changing stuff -.-. Blue: do what the FSM tells you. In my car the vacuum resivoir is a yellowish colored platic bottle mounted to your passenger side strut tower. This might only be in cars with A/C... I'm not sure. My 260 had cable operated vent doors and no A/C. The FPR can be hooked up to any manifold vacuum port. However it is a good idea to keep this hose short as possible.

My 76 is pretty close to the same. Blue and Green circle first. Blue should go directly to the electronic valve the opens vacuum to the EGR. Green should have gone to the dashpot. Most likely your dashpot leaks, so dont bother uncapping this one. Red circle, there should be a total of 3 lines going into the carbon canister. One is a tank vent, one is a purge line, the third is Yed into your vacuum advance and manifold vacuum. The carbon canistor *should* have labels on it. If all three of these are plumbed up don't worry about a 4th capped line. Finally orange circle, this goes directly to your vacuum resivoir.

Where did you get the new liners / machine work done to fit those? 98mm is a pretty drastic overbore right?

Hmmm, you could just be hearing your injectors firing. Nothing wrong with that. On my 280 with brand new bosch injectors, the injectors are more more noticible at certain RPMs. For me, high idle when it's still cold. If you had timing set problems / poor valve adjustment it would get progressivly worse with higher rpms.

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com OEM parts for the VH45DE and other Infinitis. But these guys are pretty pricey $$$. Looking at their prices online, a piston set is about $1600 !

Honestly an aluminum radiator with an unshrouded 16" electric would probably cool great. If its still running a bit on the hot side, put in a thermostat with a lower opening temp.

Seems several Dealers have had sets made by CP. $1200 is still a lot to raise my compresion from 10:1 to 12:1ish. Ross offers a set of 8 pistons (custom order) for about $700. I kinda doubt this includes pins, clips, and rings : (. I will contact them and see... I have aslo emailed Crower about regrinds and have yet to get a response.

Don't quote me on this... But you should have one power wire (+) going in to the switch, and possibly one other wire for the A/C compressor. The compressor clutch and blower motor *might* share a fuse. From the switch you should have 3+ wires that go to the resistor. From the resistor you should have 1 wire going to the motor to power it up. The 2nd wire on the motor should go directly to ground. Could try puting a 30 amp fuse in and seeing what happens. I would try replacing the resistor.

Hehe I stumbled upon the VH site yesterday, and made a login for Nico too. Lots of info on there. If i find anything really interesting ill post it up here.

Ive bought electrical parts and returned them the same day . A mechanical guage is handy because you dont have to fiddle with any wires, and eliminates all the guess work. The in dash guages are kinda tempermental. I changed my sender, and as soon as I turn on the key with the engine off, the needle goes up to 90 and just sits there -.-.

Check it with a mechanical guage. Screw out the electrical sender and plum in the mechanical guage there. It's 1/8th in NPT.

If I'm not mistaken, '70 240s are difficult to come by. In all honesty (I'm not trying to shoot you down) I would do a full stock restoration on this car. At the most put a mild cam upgrade in it. Perhaps triple Mikuni's or other 'of that era' upgrades. If you want a real hot rod I would start out with 280Z shell and build it up. The 280's have cheaper / more parts availability. Just my 2 cents, there are guys who would give ther arms, legs and a left nut for an early 240.

When you 'turn the heater on' are you referring to the blower moter, or the rear defrost? To the best of my knowledge, all the doors and heater controll valve are vacuum controlled in the 76+ Z's. If it is your blower motor blowing a fuse, pull the motor out make sure it spins freely. if you can check the brushes, do that too. The blower motor in these *should* draw less than 20 amps. Hope this helps some!

*SIGH* it seems they have all the good stuff over in OZ. $1500 is a little excessive for regrinds, but I wouldnt mind getting the valve spring kit. Thank you for the info though!

Alright guys Ive searched and searched and haven't found anyone who makes performance VH parts. I'm looking for cams and high comp pistons (I'm building an NA engine). Ive also looked on Nico forums as well. There are a lot of companies who will do custom stuff, but I don't know who is reputable, any suggestions? If this info has been posted somewhere else and I missed it, procede to flame me to death .

I have a L28 long block i need to get rid of. It needs: intake manifold w/ carbs or EFI and a distributer to get it running. It has approx. 100,000 miles on it.

I am looking for a pair of front turn signals from a JDM or Aus, from a 240 or 260Z. These are the ones with the amber and clear cover, and use a seperate parts for the park / turn signal lighting. I have looked around a little for these but haven't been able to come up with anything. If anyone has a set or knows where to get them please let me know, thanks! Just remembered, I'm looking for a P90 head for a friend. Preferably on that is pretty much gutted, all i really need are: Head, cam towers with bolts, rocker pivots... and that is about it. If someone wwants to sell a complete head that is fine too.

Paint is pretty expensive especially to do it right. Found out the hard way NOT to buy paint from Napa... they sold me the wrong hardener so the clear coat never cured. I'm currently in the process of repainting my Z with dupont paint... like $1k in supplies -.-

The JDM Nissan ones are pretty slick looking too, anything beats the $30 crome mirror I bought from MSA. It's already started to rust... and Cali has pretty mild winters. Ill probably buy a set of the Celica ones once I get paid, and take some pics with them mounted up.

Ive recently became interested in putting fender mirrors on my S30. Did some searching around on HybridZ and mostly seen links to those pricey MSA ones (they're kinda ugly imo). Looked at some pics of other JDM cars of the same vintage... and viola found a set for a Celica. Anyway here is a link to a guy who sells them with some pics http://www.toyheadauto.com/Japan_Spec__Fender_Mounted_Side_View_Mirrors.html Hes selling them for $180 a pair + shipping, might be able to find these elsewhere even cheaper. These will look nice on my '76 280 especially since the silver will go with my dark blue / silver accent paint scheme.