dan5138

You can get a pair from Courtesy Nissan, they're pretty cheap but they really aren't nice as the stock ones. I might have a pair, let me dig through my stuff tomorrow and ill let you know.

I think I have one in nice shape in all my parts. Ill dig it out tomorrow and take some pics. It is from an early 260Z (turn signals underneath bumper).

Where is did you get the dash cap? I ordered one from MSA a while back and it wasn't even close to fitting my dash.

Hmmm they build these by using 2 20B rotaries and having a custom crank made right? I dont think think the 13b sandwich plates would stack quite right... *Adds 4 rotor Z to my someday when i'm rich project list*

+1 to what careless said. You can take the original control head for the heater apart and replace the backlight for the display. I have done this on older stock stereos and it worked pretty good. The LEDs are pretty cheap, Radio Shack has em for like $1 ea or so. heck you could make it blue, red, green whatever tickles your fancy.

I just finished repairing my 5 speed and just need to get off my lazy arse and put it in. Which means I won't need the 4 speed in my 280 any more. I recently cleaned up the 4 speed and installed new front / rear seals before it went into the car. Make me an offer on it and Ill drop it out, and see about getting it to you. On second thought Ill just sell the 5 speed, can't even get the drain plug out of the 4 speed lol.

+1 on not using steel wool. This stuff catches fire pretty darn easily.

I like the it as well. You won't mind if I borrow the idea for my next Z do ya? I'm going to be flipping the heads on a VH45 so the exhaust is in the valley. Making high mount (in front of the engine) turbos much cleaner to plumb up. Ill be needing to vent a LOT of heat out of the top of the engine bay, lol. Edit: I may ad some sort of louvers to the design. On another thread here it was mentionioned properly designed louvers help 'suck' out the air.

Have you tried Yellow Freight yet? Not entirely sure if they operate outside of CA but I could get a pallet anywhere within CA for about $100 (forklifts at both ends though). Or you could have the shipper split the tranny and send it via UPS in about 3 boxes. Though I imagine doing this would cost in the neighborhood of about $150 XD.

Hi all just seeing if anyone out there has a MN47 for sale. I haven't been able to find one of these in a PickNPull yet and autowreckers want $200 for a head... Anyway If you have one please send me a PM, I am very open to trades. I have lots s30 parts and a couple of N42 L28s laying around.

Why can't the US have nice parts like these? These are excellent looking flares and they follow the original body lines nicely. Honesly , I think the shipping would be worth it as long as they're crated up so they don't get busted up.

Wow no timing marks, that's a bummer. The L26 I had apart had the timing marks and the chain had special colored links so you knew exactly where to line up the marks. If im not mistaken one of two things happens when your timing is off. A: you are only off by a tooth maybe two or three, the engine will run but your powerband will move around depending on whether you retarded / advanced the timing. B: You are way off and as soon as soon as you turn the engine over the valve train is basically ruined. I do NOT think you are at situation B. Another thing to look at is if they left the points style dizzy on, or did they upgrade to an electronic one? If you like I can pull my valvecover later tomorow, and my dizzy cap. Set everything up at 0* TDC and take some pics for a reference.

Why does everyone have to be in so cal : ( ?As far as v8's go I have vh45dett in the works. Even the L6 has some punch... but something about these Z's leaves you wanting more power! If you lived closer I wouldn't mind helping with the swap. After you do two or three L series in and out, you can just about do them in your sleep, lol.

Grats on your first Z, In pretty nice shape for $600 too. If you do some searching I'm sure some has covered a normal auto to manual swap. Off the top of my head: Trans, maybe a pedal box, Slave and master cyl, prop shaft, and disable the neutral safety switch. BTW Wangan Midnight is awesome, I'd love to do a blow through setup like that if I wasn't broke .

No feeding... poking with a stick is much more fun!

Skib, if you have one more after Dylan gets a header, I would be interested. If it's not too much trouble could you PM with a price? Don't mean to step on toes here, I just don't like making redundant threads. Thanks in advance.

Honda's in their stock form are great. But a Front wheel drive car with a tip the size of a coffee can, and enough fiber glass to build a small boat is just...MEH.

But the real question remains! Why is a Honda air dam question already two pages on a Z site? The world may never know.... On the subject of hondas a buddy and i were going to find a cheapo body kit for his mom's accord. Murder it out with black spray paint and put a flow master on it thats on my non op Z. Hows that for rice? LOL!

Any new lines you have made up will be fine with r-134. And since you will prob be getting a new compressor it will be r-134 as well. Just make sure you get the right charge ports, or some adapters and charge her up with r-134. You can still get r-12 but it's super expensive. Wholesale cost is about $25 a pound .

The expansion valve is mounted right in front of the evaporator, upper right hand side. I just charge my Z's system up yesterday using the 30 year old evap and expansion valve and it works great. Even wired in a pressure switch to kick my electric radiator fan on when the condenser starts getting warm. Edit: A note on the blower motor: there is a noticeable difference when you reseal all your ducting with new foam strips and make sure everything is hooked up correctly. Mine is a little squeaky, I might look into a replacement.

Hmm my Z hasn't gotten me into any trouble yet. Drove right in front of a CHP just the other day with NO side view mirrors at all, was still waiting for them to show up. Honestly Ive gotten all my tickets in my Toyota 4x4, doesn't help I drive it like its stolen in hopes coaxing a rod to exit that 3vze's block. Would be a good excuse for a 7mgte swap now that the Z is done!

I ran into trouble trying to snake those hard lines out of the dash...They didnt want to unscrew from the evap:(. But it was also an s30, and kinda corroded, hehe.

*snickers* Ive heard the same trick.... but you dump some ATF in your diesel truck and you're supposed to make a little more power. ATF burns hotter than diesel... makes your pyro's go way up. Good way to ruin a turbo too, also heard this one from an old timer, lol.

If you want to take the evap and heater core completely out yes. If you just need inspect, clean components etc, then there is no real need to.

Don't mean to threadjack or step on toes, but I'm looking for the same piece... but on the driver's side.