dan5138

Honestly for a dash I would go with Kevlar. It is less expensive, more flexible and impact resistant than CF. All good qualities for a dash. If you do some hunting you can find the aluminized / colored stuff. I have seen silver, red, blue, and black for sale on eBay.

If the PO rebuilt the engine themselves... I would check the timing on your cam as well. I would agree with sweetleaf and say your ign. timing is off.

Yep I can get these for you #10 / #8 / #6 tube oring style. I have the fittings with barbs for heater hose. Or normal (tube - O) A/C fittings will screw right on to these. They are Male insert O-ring on each side. If you need help sourcing A/C hose, other fittings, or any sort of HvAC parts let me know!

If you do a bit of searching you can find a factory service manuals (on this site) for most Z's with a full car schematic.Then you can then trace out all the grounds, and be certain it's acurate.

I don't think it would interfere with anything. The compressor is all the way at the front of the block and pretty low. The only issue that comes to mind is line routing really, those hard lines are a P.I.T.A. If you need help sourcing a compressor I should be able to get a new one for less than $400.

Rustoleum primer is pretty nasty in its own right. Acetone won't touch it, gotta bust out the aircraft stripper! Nice work on the floor boards, very cost effective fix.

You are wanting a pan off an N42 block, correct? I may have one of these, just PM me with an offer.

Old injectors or new ones? just because everything ohms out doesn't mean the injector is mechanicaly sound. When I first got my 280Z it ran really rough. The injectors more or less dribbled instead of atomizing the fuel. Just food for thought.

.060 is quite a bit of meat. Maybe buying a new flange and cutting tho old one off is an option? Just have to be carefull and find someone who can weld really well. Also if you do a bit of searching I'm sure someone knows of a vendor that sells header flanges. I imagine either route is less expensive than a complete new header.

I have a bone stock N42 longblock at a friends. I'd be willing to let it go pretty cheap, just take the head / pan off and clean her up a lil. It came out of a '76 280 with about 107K on it. But Irvine is like a 6 hour drive I think... .

Hehe general rule of thumb is, if you rebuild just the top end, then your bottom end will start going and vice versa. If it has been well maintained over those 150k miles, I would pull the engine + trans, and do a freshen up on both. New Bearings, rings, seals + gaskets, timing kit and water pump wouldn't hurt. Just Mic everything out and make sure it's within spec, I doubt you need to replace pistons just yet. If you are feeling really energetic you could replace trans seals. Split the trans and inspect bearings etc. http://www.rockauto.com has great prices on name brand parts... fel-pro gaskets are OK but their oil seals kinda suck, mainly fitiment issues.

Sounds great Jon, what kind of exhaust do you have on that thing? Sounds sort of like 180's when it's wound up.

If this is actually designed properly...the main benefit I see is being able to run any tire / wheel combo you like. The push rod is going to be much thinner than any coil over set up, allowing more backspacing. You could also achieve much more drastic drops (imagine a 4" drop) and bolt everything up so you don't have too much camber. Just my 2 cents, If were going to build something like this I would make the brackets / cantilevers a little more beefy. Edit: Thanks for the additional info on benefits of this set up Bart. Looking at the pic you posted, I like that much better as it connects to the chasis at 3 points, rather than just the strut towers.

If you are handy with a drill press and a carbide burr you can modify the E88 to accept the FI stuff. This is what I did to an l26 I had, and it runs great.

You shouldn't be able to turn the adjusting nut at all after the jamb nut is tightened up. Don't be afraid to get those jamb nuts nice and tight, just gotta hold the adjuster with a backup wrench. If they are super easy to turn even with the jamb nut tight I could see there being enough vibration to back them off. It doesn't take much slop and these engines sound pretty bad.

Not something I would run, but I'm kinda picky anyway. Honestly figuring out the gear ratio, and replacing the ring gear would be cheap insurance IMO.

Hey! a fellow Central Cali HybridZ user. A 240 air dam will bolt on a 280Z. But to make it look right you need a 240 grille and 240 signals. Ahaha Flatblack beat me to it!

Don't 240's come with that gimp AM radio? My 280 did, i just trimmed the panel out that held it in the center console. Made some L brackets on the back and it works good.

Hmm, you did try searching the site first right? I'll help you out... McMaster has these, just look around their website some.

Ah I didnt think you could shoot color over the clear. learn something new every day.

Haha I have a full set they just need a bead blast and polish. aside from that nice condition. $20 + shipping I'm in cali... so shipping might be a bit. I hate these things, so Ill take some pics of em later.

Hobarts or Millers about the best welding machines you can get. Mostly heresay and preference. But I have yet to hear anyone complain about a Hobart, I say go for it if the price is right.

Since it was recently painted, I would sand through the clear until you hit color. Sand out an area ~2 inches or so larger than the tiger stripe. Shoot your color, shoot clear over the top. Wet sand the new clear and some of the old area and buff it out. This is how I would go about it, I will be attempting this on a fender I'm repairing for a friend. If you like you can hold out until I'm done this weekend, I can post my results. I wouldnt go any coarser than 400 wet or dry for any of this, and always 1500 on your final clear sand. Metallics will be extremely difficult to repair this way, theyre already hard enough to paint, lol.

Beutiful car, I would love to build one of these. I like the fastback version a little better... and i would drop a 5 valve 4AGE with Corolla GTS running gear. Think AE86 but smog exempt... lol. edit: Cant forget some JDM fender mirrors!

Definately agree with John. I have 5 speed from an autowrecker with the same symptoms. Except mine sounds more like its full of rocks in neutral. Dropped my back-up 4 speed in, used same pilot bushing and throwout bearing, absolutely silent now.