dan5138

Hehehe are those truck / trailer side markers you used for tail lights? They look really familiar! I believe they make LED versions of those, that would look neat too. Nice mods, should look great all painted.

I just removed mine, one less potential vacuum leak imo. I believe its too keep the engine from stalling if you wind it up and let off suddenly back to an idle... i could be way off. My L28 does just fine without one, after fixing vacuum leaks thats is .

That is pretty neat... making note for next time i go to pick N pull. Could probably use the gas hatch struts off a honda or some SUV, shove them down my pant legs... and WHA LA!

Hole saw and a 6 pack of beer? Hehe that probably wouldn't turn out too great...

Definately interesting and unique. Great work done so far... only one thing bugs me though. Are you going to transition the flat part on the bottom into the rest of the front? Like a little bit of a bevel, and maybe transition that flat part into the fender a tad too. Just suggestions and my 2 cents, lol.

It's an L28. You can see the extra holes around the intake mani. The EFI manifold uses a different bolt pattern than the SU manifold. I would also have someone tune those SU's as well. If someone just bolted all this together and dropped it in, it may be running a tad bit lean. Nice looking car btw. Hmm N42 head on an L26 block could be a possibility. I doubt it, doing so would drop the CR which would be pretty dumb... just an afterthought.

Aww you live in canada, or I would steal your diff. I need one out of a 300zx like that. Let us know how it runs after changing timing / sensors.

Holy smokes I counted like 6+ layers of paint on that hood! Is that right or am I just seeing things >_>. Take the aircraft stripper to her! I personally like to work from the sheet metal up, that way you know whats going on. No surprises down the road, hehe. Don't know if your project has the time frame for that... just my 2cents.

Just speaking in general here, most of time you want a good snug fit when putting any bearing in. With what you are describing I would definately take that bell housing back and ask some questions. What will end up happening is the counter shaft will load that bearing and spin the entire thing inside the bell housing, making the problem worse. If the machine shop refuses to do anything my suggestion is to basically glue that bearing in. A little bit of blue Loc-tite or a smidge of black silicone should do the trick. Anything to guarantee that the bearing wont spin around in the bell housing is what is important.

Well an old school trick might work for you here. Make note of what diameter of hose you need. Take a piece of coat hanger and make it the appropriate length with the bends needed etc. Take your wire to a local parts store, and ask to see their pre-formed radiator hoses and see if anything matches up. Napa often has a decent selection of these hoses.

Sounds like you are running way rich. Unplugging The O2 sensor wont help matters as it's probably narrowband. Sounds like your plugs are pretty fouled at this point too. I would start by checking your AFM and all it's connections. Also pull each plug and see what color they are. Soggy and black = rich. If it's more apparent in one cylinder, check injectors. Also try disconnecting your cold starting injector. Sometimes the temp switch for these go bad or the injector it's self is bad and causes a rich mixture. Just a couple of things to try. Most EFI systems 80-89 are fairly similar. See if there are any other threads with people with the same problems. Even if it isn't a Z31, it will probably be relevant and/or help.

Lots of good info and advice, I wasn't trying to say the VH is the BEST engine. I appologize if anyone took it that way... It's just a fun swap if you like to do fab work and keep everything Nissan. Interesting tid bit about the bearings though. A possible solution to this would be just to machine the rod journals down just a bit right? As well as ensuring you have the correct amount of oil pressure for whatever RPMs you may be running.

*cough* vh45 *cough*

Hmm all this talk about intake and exhaust, and I start cooking up some ideas of my own. Anyone know if you can put a right hand head on the left and vice versa? If you could run the exhaust on top of the engine it would be easy to run 180* headers . Might have to make some firewall mods, and keep a fire extinguisher handy when your hood catches on fire, lol. However I believe you can do this on the Cadillac Norstar engines. Anyone try to do this yet?

What are you after exactly? Full body harness? Full engine harness? Or both? I have been cooking up an Idea lately to make a solid state circuit for controlling all the lighting on my car, rather than all the relays, flashers and other garbage that goes bad after about 30 years. I can draw up a schematic, but my soldering skills are kinda meh, lol.

Simple, go to radio shack and solder several 1/2 watt resistors together in series until you get 15k. I would imagine the would at least have some 2k or 5k resistors floating around.

I say do a V8, you can build a pretty mean SBC for under $1000 if you do some bargain hunting. The expensive part is the fab work (if you can't do it yourself) to put in V8 motor mounts, and making the driveline work. I honestly think a carbuerated V8 swap could be done for under $3000, no expensive EFI stuff to mess with, lol. Probably out of the realm of possibility here... but a VH45 with 8 streetbike carbs would be neat, but a PITA to tune. Edit: I'm pretty dang sure a SBC swap kit for a S30 would work for a 280ZX (please correct me if I'm wrong). Seems to be a few of these floating around all the time.

I have a fan + clutch, that was working fine when i took it off to convert to electric. It came out of a '76 280Z, should work for you. $20 + shipping.

Depends on how bad it is. If your crank didnt get hot enought to discolor it (blue or brownish instead of normal steel coloring) you can have it machined to use oversize bearings. If the block is damaged, it would probably be less expensive to buy another block. Personaly I would go with another crank / block, since L series parts are fairly inexpensive.

Won't turn over, as in the starter won't. Or won't turn over as in putting a breaker bar on the the front pulley and trying. Either way I would say you spun a bearing (or a few). That would make the noise and cut off oil to that journal, and eventually get hot enough / chewed up enough to seize the engine up. You can also break piston rings, and have a piston stick in the bore...

If you want a LOT of travel I would go with a cantilever setup, which would be really neat to see done. You could tie it all into the roll cage, open up the wheel wells, and get travel without a lot of lift. Hmmm I better stop now or Ill want to build something like this -.-. Two S30s is enough for now lol.

My 260Z did not have any rigid pieces in the headliner. The vinyl is backed with 1/4 thick foam rubber, and is glued directly to the metal. If you need a template, Ill see if i can dig mine out and make ya one. Would probably be less expensive to buy the vinyl / foam and cut it out yourself.

Ill be buying a parts car in another week or so, passanger side got hit, but the fender may still be good. Ill let you know if its any good if you dont find one by then.

S30 regulator? Driver or passanger side... cuz i probably have one in my stuff. Yours if you don't mind paying freight .

Kind of irrelevant... but what type of glue did you use to stick the layers of foam together? When I tried doing something similar the glue (elmers wood glue, lol) was much harder than the foam, made it a PITA to get nice smooth lines. Back on subject... very neat so far. Are you going to make side skirts and a rear to match?