dan5138

I think some sort of fluid to air setup would be the best bet, and would have a small impact on weight. Since the the coolant for this system would be running trough part of the intake mani anyway, why not use fuel? As far as I know your gas should be about the same temp, or sligtly lower than the outside ambient air temperature. after passing through the manifold the fuel would go to the injectors, warm fuel atomizes better than cold fuel so this would have some added benefits. You might have to get a bit better fuel pump, but you won't have the added wieght of water, resivoir tank, pump and all the extras that go along with it,

http://www.metrommp.com/metrocar/PartListByType.cfm?Type=Hole%20Plugs Not a huge selection but still pretty good. They have some other interesting stuff on the rest of the site to boot! http://minorrubber.thomasnet.com/viewitems/rubber-grommets-blind-and-plug-grommets/blind-plug-grommet-2?&forward=1 Probably more along the lines of what you're after.

Five speed transmissions are relatively easy to rebuild. The hard part is you need access to a bearing puller / arbor press. As far as I know there really isn't a good kit out there for the older Nissan 5 speeds. Honestly, I would just split it and check your bearings. If they all spin easily without any slop, and the syncros / selectors don't look torn up. Seal it back up and run it, the main thing is getting the correct gear oil. There is a thread on oils with the proper specs. Just my .02

Sure am interested, how much would you like for it?

Just need the pickup w/ the wires. I actually have a remaned dizy, Ive had this same problem on ford remaned dizzys with electronic ign. Could probably just put it in a padded envelope, would appriecate it though!

Just want to see if anyone has a reluctor pickup out of 1975-1978 L28. I have an ignition problem narrowed down to that, or the box itself.

Hey folks, I need just the manifold for a triple Weber setup. Preferably something used, and relatively affordable. I would like to use it as a bassis for my standoff ITB project.

Might try throwing the whole unit in the oven or put it near a space heater etc. Get it up to 200-300*F. I don't think this is enough heat to damage/distort the aluminum. Please chime in if I'm wrong. Use a good set of welding gloves and use a large deep socket to support the back of the stud hole. A good hit with a mediumish ball peen hammer should knock the stud right out. Heating the the Alum. should make the studs come out easier, less chance of breaking something or screwing up the holes.

I recenty bought a Q45 engine for $300 from a wrecking yard. Bare bones no intake, sensors or accessories. Just as a heads up, I doubt anyone will want the ECM or transmission, but hey you never know.

Get a new rubber seal for the rear glass, and that should soak everything up. If you want to get really ambitious you could make the glass a lift glass. I would imagine earlier RX7 hatch hinges would work, just need some sort of mechanism. That way your hatch area would'nt be entirely useless.

Hmmm a friend and a screwdriver... haha don't do that. Easiest/ cheapest way is to pull #1 plug attach the wire and lay it on the valve cover so it is grounded. Have someone turn the engine over and you should see the spark. Just be sure NOT to do this near the #1 plug hole, better safe than to not have any eyebrows .

Might try checking your TPS, TPS connector and AFM connector. If either one got knocked loose or has corroded pins, it could cause the problems you're having. The only other thing I can think of, is the ignition is cutting out for some reason. I would check the crank angle sensor and ignition module as was already mentioned as well.

Hmm the same thing happened to a friend back in high school. Except he left a can of axe on his dash, and he had a nice hole in is windshield. As far as clean up goes, try some mineral spirits. Its great at cleaning up gooey messes and it doesn't damage plastics and vinyls etc.

Repairing doors is no fun at all. I was working on my '76, the passenger door had a huge rust hole in the outer skin, but the inner part of the door was fine, almost rust free. The only pass door I was able to find was off a '78 which has the same outer skin, with different innards. I had to cut off the '76 skin leaving the inner part undamaged. Cut the inner part of the 78 skin off while leaving the outer undamaged. Then I opened up the pinch seam and put the two halves together, pinched and welded em. The door turned out nice, but I would'nt do it again. S30s are pretty common, it's a lot easier to just replace the whole door rather than trying to repair it.

Well I only found one and it looks awful, sorry : /

I think I have an extra set... somewhere in my stuff. Let me dig them out and take pics. I remember them looking nice, but I know they aren't perfect.

http://www.car-part.com search around on there you may be able to source a r-154 from there. A buddy of mine bought a r-154 from a wrecker there for $200.

I have one out of early '74 260Z. I have it cleaned up and painted with rustoleum. The boots are in nice shape, just needs a set of dust covers for the heim joints on the end.

I have a used set that could be reground and would work fine. They came out of a P90A. Let me know if you're interested.

I have one I posted earlier in the for sale section. I want $150 for it as it has new seals, some new bearings and has been cleaned up and inspected. Where at in Cali are you located?

Hmm FI all the way. A cannon tripple manifold with ITBs and stand off injectors would look great, not to mention work great and be fuel efficient if you wanted it to be .

I though about the same issue, but i often i drive around and to remote places, no one around to jump me . I was thinking a hidden door in the fender well with a cable to unlatch the doors. Could even put a hasp from a locking gas door for added security.

If we are talking plastics, UV rays and heat are your worst enemies. Just let your parts spend some time in a tanning bed XD.

Which one? the gauge sender or the one for the stock EFI system? I bought the gauge sender from Napa and it works great (its the better, correct style that requires the nut).