dan5138

The case looks like a Nissan FS5, But the bell housing and tail shaft aren't right for a Z. Probably came out of a pickup, send it along to the scrapyard IMO. There are some threads about putting a N/A 280ZX 5 speeds in 240's just gota search some.

Check the basics first. A bad CTS or MAP sensor could cause a lean run. Also don't rule out having a bad fuel pressure regulator. My FPR failed on Christmas and completely flooded the engine.

The duplicolor bed liner they sell in most auto parts stores is garbage. I painted my engine bay with the stuff and it is already starting to peel in spots. The roll on stuff they sell at some of the paint shops isn't too fantastic either, lasted about a year in my toyo pickup. I have heard really good things about Zolotone (spelling?), yet to use it myself.

Why not do Kevlar instead of FG? Kevlar costs about the same, is a bit lighter and has good impact resistance. Put a nice gel-coat on it and paint it any color you like. As far as CF goes, I think unfinished CF looks tacky (stock Hondas with CF hoods come to mind) just paint to match or a nice satin black. Just some personal preference:wc:.

I would like to see the Maxima N47 head added or MN47 as some refer to it. Combustion chamber CC: 39 Intake valve: Don't know exact specs, but slightly smaller than L28 intakes Exhaust valve: same as the Z heads. Edit: Also want to thank your for making the engine design utility. It is extremely useful for brainstorming and making a parts list for building engines.

Similar situation happened to me last week. Went over to america's tire to apply for a job. Then this thread came to mind.... Talked to the manager some and asked if I could get my tires balanced. He showed me how to read the DoT numbers to estimate mfr date. Turns out the tires I was running were made in '96 they didn't look bad, had %70 tread. Decided to get some new ones and turns out one of my rears had a bubble, thats where my high speed vibration was from. I'm glad I had those replaced before the blew out on my way to school!

Well if you are shooting for performance diesel... I would build up a stroker L, aftermarket forged rods good set of pop up pistons, and a P90 head. Put it all in a N42 block. Convert the P90 over to direct injection. If I am not mistaken, older mechanical cummins engines use a pump very similar to a bosch pump, if it isn't actually a bosch pump. There are a lot of guys who know how to mod these pumps, so the could probably tell you how to drop fuel output down to an appropriate level for an NA 3.0L. If you could get the compression ratio up there a ways you would have torque excellent bottom end, and MPG to boot. Would also run either a mild turbo cam, or retard the stock cam. Would be an interesting build for sure.

O.O Ill have to keep this thread handy when I do my 4x4 conversion, so I don't make the same mistake.

Find your FSM on this site, I know all or most of the S30 ones are in the download section stickies. Check your tach wiring, IIRC the tach signal comes off the ballast resistor for your coil. It sounds like an ignition problem to me. Throw a timing light on it and make sure timing checks out, the FSM will show you how to do this. If you're in time ( or within a few degrees) try swaping out the dizzy, or possibly the ignition module. Do you have an original dizzy or a reman unit? Cheapo reman units are usually rebuilt with crappy parts or slopped together original parts. I was recently having intermittent problems with my '76. Wouldn't idle, wouldn't rev past 3k etc. It would miss enough to foul the plugs and would start smoking as well. Put a dizzy in from a wrecking yard car in it and now it's fine. Edit: Would'nt hurt to check the AFM boot like you mentioned, could cause the car to run poorly. I doubt its an issue with your PCV, that usually causes a rough idle, but has little to no effect once you hit about 1500 - 2k rpms.

Hmmmmmm I could pull the vin plates and lic plates off my '76 and drive it home, . Edit: Could just do a mechanics lean... needed a fuel pump that was worth more than the whole car

First thing I would check is your Grounds, battery posts not corroded etc. Next find some specs on your coolant temp sensor and make sure it is working correctly. Sounds like you are over fueling or starving, a bad CTS usually causes over fueling making an engine hard to start. Might also check and make sure you have a good strong spark. The pickup module for my 280Z went out recently causing similar problems. Sometimes the engine would have weak spark, or the ignition would cut out intermittently and wouldn't start if it stalled. Other times it would run like a top and start just fine. Well that is if SRs have a dizzy... just kinda generalizing FI engines here XD.

I did! I LOLed at that.

Eh bypass fossil fuel altogether, turbo LD28 running on cooking oil!

Well grats ahead of time on the Z, and welcome to the best Z forum imho... probably one of the best forums to go to for even general automotive knowledge. +1 to using the search engine, but browse through each individual section and check out all the stickies in them, those are chocked full of helpful info. And the truth about performance on a stock 280Z... you have roughly 100 RWHP for a 2800-3000 LB. car. They can get up and go, just don't expect to be thrown back into your seat, lol.

But... wheres the fun in a garage like that. I would be scared to change oil in any of those... Hell I would be happier living in a 2 bay shop with an apartment in the top

Well my 280 is for sale, and i'm throwing in a some extra parts with it. The thread. should still be up in the cars for sale section. It's in Cali... don't know if you want to travel that far.

I' m not sure, would take a while to heat soak 10+ gallons on fuel. And at WoT only a small amount of fuel even gets returned to the tank anyway. I am pretty sure you would burn a 10 gallon tank before heat soaking it, especially if it's an L series with 15+ PSI of boost. Building a manifold out of compsites would be pretty simple. Since it would all be flat surfaces, with a little curve to make it sweep from the turbo into the ITBs. Simple make a top, bottom, and side moulds. One of the sides would have to be removable, and brackets, mounting tabs etc. can be put into the composite as you are adding layers. Once it is all laid up, stick it together with a bit of resin and strips of composite for reinforcement. Trying to make it all one solid piece would just be crazy. I don't remember which composite stands up to heat the best, I am thinking it's Kevlar which is cheaper than CF anyway.

I like the first drawing myself. A low or mid-mount turbo, with the laminova sweeping up and in to a set of ITBs. You could fit 5+ sets of air to water coolers in there at least. I was also thinking, you could possibly add baffles in between each cooler to force the air to travel over more of the surface. Picture a Venturi in between each set. Would most likely make off boost performance suffer a little, but would increase cooling effiency some.

That sounds pretty darn tasty, sadly I haven't had the chance to try spicey jam yet : (.

8 stuck injectors on that new of an engine? Wierd, injectors would have been the last thing I would have checked on a newer engine : /.

In plain english: raising your fuel temperature achieves slightly better atomization with gasoline. However manifold pressure has a much greater effect. Under boost it is more difficult for the fuel to atomize than it is in an NA engine. On another note, I would make the manifold itself out of some sort of composite material so it doesn't heat soak. However the laminar tubes / fins would remain aluminum. The whole goal here is to completely replace a FMIC, while having the same amount of effect on the intake charge. I think it is totally feasible, and with a little R&D could be more compact and possibly lighter than a traditional FMIC setup.

Who needs a rifle? Drive from Klammath to Bend a couple times at night : /. Ruined the front of my Dad's Tacoma this way, on our way to Washington to visit family last month. It's the biggest white tail buck I had ever seen... seemed a bit bigger than anything in California anyway. But yea firing anything out in the open near houses is just plain dumb.

I like OEM style loom retainers myself. Most newer (90+) Japanese cars use these. Flat plastic strip with a little nipple on the back made to lock into a ~ 3/16 hole. Just tape em into the loom, drill a couple small holes and you're done. I just don't like messing around with the tiny screws and lock tabs associated with clamp-style retainers. I don't actually have a source for the OE style ones but I'm sure they could be ordered online or through a dealership if you had some P/Ns. Worse case scenario you could spend a few hours with a pocket knife and hemaclamps at your local Pick a Part XD.

Acid dipping, as in eating away some of the steel to make the whole thing lighter?

Most FI systems won't run without a MAP or MAF sensor. Some older systems will start and idle, but that is about it. The 02 sensor shouldn't stop it, it will just run rich without it.