HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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The hole is there because throttle bodies and plates have a habit of building up deposits between them.
If your car uses very slight throttle body opening rather than the hole, then the inevitable buildup will lower your idle over time by closing the gap between body and plate.
On OBDII cars, I check out the percentage of idle control in the data list to determine of this has happened so I already know what I will find when I take off the piping to the throttle body.
If the percentage is high, I know it is gummed up though I always do a visual before selling the throttle body service.
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How about just switching over the manifolding, turbo, and lines over to the L24e?
I did this and used my ghetto oil return mod to get turbo power without even removing the pan.
Mine ran fine for 50,000 miles with stock engine management but it did have python injectors which are known to not be very exact and therefore could have flowed more than stock but I believe stock boost on used on the L24 won't blow up the engine or lean it out.
This way the car is not tied up as you source parts to finish the L28.
As far as the tranny is concerned.......I would stick with the fs5w71b tranny out of a non turbo 280zx since it shares the same driveshaft length and spline count with the 3n71b 3 speed and some 4 speeds..........some 4 speed autos have a thicker yoke, though.
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The ecu case does not require a ground as I routinely run them while holding them in my hand.
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I would say more ignition switch than most anything else.
On your car you should be able to unscrew the two philips head screws that hold the switch to the locking assembly.
These are on the opposite side of where the key is put in.
There are a bunch of different ones concerning amount of pins and how far they turn which varies from year to year so you have to be careful if you are swapping them.
Another possibility is that you have a ballast resistor that has blown open passing no voltage.
It is there to keep lower the voltage that the points see to extend life and is usually bypassed when the key is in the start position.
Since your car does start, I would disconnect the connector going to the starter solenoid and have somebody hold the key turned so you can figure out which wire going to the distributor has the +12volts and trace it back to where you should find the ballast resistor (if it is still there).
It is white and is the size of a 1x1 piece of wood about 4 inches in length with a connector on each end.
Once you find it, you should be able to use a test light and a have a friend turn the key so you can check whether the light lights up on both sides of the resistor.
If it only lights on one side when the car is in the run position, then it is blown.
It it only lights in the start position (both sides) then the switch is bad.
My bet is the switch, though.
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The E36 325IS is perfect..........and would make a front running Improved Touring S class race car since it seems they dominate that class.
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NO......what I meant is that the pictures don't show the exhaust being branched off before it goes to the small turbo.
All exhaust gases destined for the big turbo are not going through the small turbo first because the small turbo's restriction would not allow enough gases to pass through it to even tickle the large turbo into producing boost.
That small turbo's exhaust housing will certainly not pass 700hp through it so it's obvious they bypass a good amount around the small turbo and send it directly to the big turbo.
My way routes ALL exhaust gases first through the big turbo and directly into the small turbo with the bypassing a certain of percentage of exhaust gases happening between the large turbo exit and the small turbo's inlet rather than before them.
There is also a nomemclature problem with using "compound" since aviation engines like the wright 3350 are called turbo compound but they use power recovery turbines which is far different than what is above.
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This is the connector that I cut off the distributor (not the car harness) to wire in the later style connector onto my distributor rather than kill an entire l28et harness since I have that as a back-up standalone system.
Harness and connector in infiniti M30 are in immediate background.
Top left is green (1 degree signal), to the right of it is black (ground), bottom left is red (+12v), and bottom right is white (120 degree signal).
I know that you're after being able to splice connectors without molesting either your distributor or your original car harness but, unless you have spares of either, you will have to cut one or the other...........or find a company that supplies that very rare connector.
I went to a junkyard and snipped the connector off of a butchered distributor and also the connector from the harness in the thinking that adapting it to the Z31 or later connector which fits most every single cam vg30 engine management system, I would only have to do it once no matter whether I ran a 1984 Z31 system or a 2002 nissan Quest system and everything in between.
I think I just matched color to color since the distributor end had the same color scheme but it changes colors on the harness connector end like this....
Red goes to black/white
Black goes to black
White goes to green/black
Green goes to green.
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I recently cut off the plug from a 1983 distributor (cringed while doing it) to fit the later Z31/M30 connector for use with the M30 ecu.
If you look at the end that comes out of the distributor with both male terminals up top then the left male terminal is green, the right one is black, the bottom left (female terminal) is red and the one to the right of it is white.
Let me tell you that nissan uses some sort of super adhesive to bond the shrinkwrap that goes over this connector to it.
I'm pretty sure the colors match up with the later Z31 distributor wiring convention but I may be wrong.
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Hmmm...........sounds very interesting.
Time for me to do some research.
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I no longer use the tool condominiums and instead roll around a craftsman top and bottom box full of tools specifically geared toward the brand I am working on.
I am used to seeing some techs snicker when I show up at new dealership with that setup but laugh inside when the same techs have to swallow pride a few weeks later and ask to borrow a tool from me since I tend to buy what nobody else has or thought to include in his box.
This gives you bargaining power within the shop.
95% of that limited selection goes unused if you work at toyota and about 80% will go unused while working for nissan.
I cringe when I see a new kid straight out of UTI buy a huge setup from snap-on or mac but it does show a level of commitment.
Dollar store box wrenches are good and I've got a drawer full of them that were cut off or bent for a specific task...........those get borrowed a lot as well.
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I know this is an old thread but you cannot make a sweeping statement on snap-on welders for the simple fact that more then one manufacturer makes them for snap-on.
I got lucky purchasing a FM140 snap-on welder made by CK systematics.
It is by far the heaviest 110 volt welder on the market and is a solid machine with quality parts unlike many other snap-on welders.
The reason for this is that it features a huge step-up transformer unlike most any other 110 volt welder I have ever seen.
It features 100% duty cycle and I've welded a continuous 150+ inches in one run with no trouble.
The only thing you have to watch for is making sure you provide it with enough current or you end up with something akin to having a firehose (the fm140) fed by a garden hose (a plug farthest from the electrical panel of the building).
Plug it close to the panel and it kicks ass.
When looking for welders, search and search for information and reviews before buying.
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I'm confused by your statement. As far as I know and can see from the picture, it's more accurate to say the exhaust from the small turbo could pass through to the big turbo.
I am wrong but the statement above is not completely right.
If you passed all the exhaust gas first through the small turbo, you would be limited to how much hp the smaller exhaust housing can handle.
That would make the big turbo not necessary.
Since a few of the pics seem to have disappeared, It looks like the big turbo is fed a branching off of the exhaust that bypassed the small turbo.
Personally........I would have designed the kit having the big turbo being fed all the exhaust and then branching the exhaust AFTER it passes through the big snail for routing to the small turbo.
With clever wastegate positioning, the setup would be a lot simpler.
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There is a secret squirrel technique to backfeed the pump.
I used the clear plastic tubing that comes with those lame hand pumps designed to pump from anti freeze containers.
I used a plastic tube connector to fit it to a funnel.
Then I remove the oil filter and stuff the clear tubing into the oil gallery that feed the filter (not the one in the center) by stuffing it in pointing toward the front of the car as much as possible. I got it in about 1/2 an inch by squeezing and prodding it.
Then you put a bit of oil in the funnel and crank the engine by hand backwards.
You should see the oil going down the clear tube if you leave a bit or air bubble to use as an indicator of flow.
If you crank half a quart or more and fill the filter, you should get pressure right away but I took out the oil pressure sender and watched while cranking with a remote starter switch until I saw oil coming out and quickly put the sender back in before firing the up the engine.
I actually had to do this twice since I did it once and got zero pressure.
If that happens then you have a bad pump or a pickup that is sucking air.
I replacedthe pump with another I had lying around and repeated the process and got pressure right away.
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Check whether the idle switch works properly in the TPS.
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Are the grounds connected to the intake manifold?
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I didn't use any harsh chemicals on mine.........just ran it long enough to get warm, pulled spark plugs to check if the non running cylinders were wet, and used a long screwdriver to listen to the injectors while wiggling terminals.
It took a few times getting warm and then shutting it off to let it sit for about 1/2 an hour to unstick them.
Making sure the electricity makes the trip should be first.
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If the injectors sat for a while, you might have to run the car and get it warm a couple of times to unstick gummed up injectors.
I just went through this with 4 sets of injectors and all unstuck eventually.
One set actually fouled a plug because that cylinder was too lean to fire.
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Any worries about washing down the cylinder walls?
Never followed alcohol builds but was wondering whether you have to take the same steps as one would do in a 100% alcohol build.
Very cool setup.
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Sweet........great idea knowing the big turbo could pass exhaust through to the small turbo.
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Wiggle the wires at the connector where it plugs into the ecu while experiencing the failure.
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If you do run the other modules, make sure the communication lines make the trip.
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Unplug the 02 sensor if not already unplugged and see if you get the same results.
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Good find and timing.
Also make sure the a/c condensor isn't restricting airflow.
Which engine is this?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Someone put a lot of loving care into putting that together.