HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Torsens for the R200?
Datsun dynamics got a few from Leitzinger when they bought some former showroom stock Z31s and replacement quotes in 1990 were around a grand.
Maybe it was markup from a bad vendor.
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Yeah.......I spun it with rotor off and no shake.
It really shakes big time if you get a good spin from your fingers.
I'm doing a search on this part as advertised by every manufacturer but all look like this so far.
The imbalance is obvious from the pic.
Good thing the distributor spins at half crankshaft speed.
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Torsen set the price bar that high back in the late 80s/early 90s.
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I did this on a car with a cable when fitting the L28.
This is the second throttle cam (cruise control) off of a 1992 stanza but it looks very similar to the Z31 cam.
I used the cam and the plasitc bushing that it rides on but cut away much of it because of the limited room but left enough to keep the throttle action as linear as possible........probably could have left more but it's fine.
I butchered up the cable end mount from a Z31 to mount it to the rail but I will probably fix the look later on.
Then I got it the proper adjustment and drilled a hole straight through everything and bolted lightly.
I put it there after tons of time spend trying to figure out the best way to use a cable designed for a Z31 and ended up with the cable being a "S" shape but the stock implementation is almost a circle.
Definately look at other setups for the best solution but this one does work.
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Another helpful thread.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143375
some of the pics might be the same on both threads but the exhaust manifold turbo placement might be an issue.
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I was spinning a 1983 280zx turbo distributor with my fingers doing some checking over on my L28et on a M30 ecu and noticed the entire distributor shook like crazy from the offset weight of the rotor.
It looks like an aftermarket rotor so I was wondering if all the 280zx turbo distributor rotors lack the rear facing "counterweight" or do I just have the worst possible rotor in this car?
I just don't remember and have no other 280zx turbo rotors to compare it to but I cannot imagine that kind of imbalance is good for the distributor.
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Certain nissan throttle cams (actually cruise control cams) slide right over the stock bar linkage.
Then it's just finding a place to mount the cable sheath end.
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The 1982/1983 distributor has a different socket that meets the oil pump shaft than the 1981 and earlier.
I have the complete 1981 setup that uses a crank angle sensor and ran it as a standalone but I wanted to use a newer ecu from either a Z31 or M30.
To do this, you need to swap over the encoder disc from a z31 distributor to the l28et distributor. The 1981 distributor is empty so you need the 1982 or 1983 distributor.
I pushed out the pins on all of the distributor ends and tried to use the later distributor with the earlier shaft but it requires machining and a lot of work which could compromise the precision of the timing.
I got the later oil pump shaft and everthing is sweet running a M30 ecu on the L28et..........well.......it's in a M30 car so I thought it best to try that setup first.
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Also........ask the guy at the parts store for a length of "fuel injection hose" and compare it to the hose you currently have.
Many car fires are started by people putting low pressure hose on an injected car.
Of course a stuck regulator will net you 90psi or so.......but injection hose should handle it no problem.
Still..........definately get the pressure correct so you have consistent fuel pressure which will make tuning easier.
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Add........."280zx turbo oil pump shaft" to the list..........or 1981 280zx turbo crank angle sensor and front pulley.
The distributor and oil pump shaft from the L28et is easier than the 1981 solution and it makes running a Z31 or M30 ecu alot easier if you want to go beyond the stock ecu limits.
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Best thread ever.......love that angle plug head.
Is the plug angling done to place the plug for the reason of flame travel or is it to get a better plug angle relative to the chamber?
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There are 4 bolts and one screw involved.
First is to spray some penetrating oil on the screw which should allow the sensor to move within the channel.
The two outermost bolts will help you get the gap and angle correct.
The two inner bolts allow for up and down movement when loosened but you should check whether moving it up or down changes the clearance at either the top of bottom.
The other thing you should do is ask why it would need to be changed.
If your timing is too advanced, check whether your idle position switch is working.
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The engine I mentioned above with the flattops that were hammered out through some rusty bores is now running in a M30.
It hasn't smoked the least bit and runs smooth on the M30 ecu with the stock 280zx turbo injectors.
I expected it to run pig rich throughout the rpm range but it's fine...........not really sure why but maybe it's learning capability has pulled fueling to compensate.
I did fit the M30 smaller 02 sensor but most won't have the luck I had with the screws I used.
It has a lexus metal egr gasket under that plate so no leaks.
It does get a rough idle after a couple of minutes but I'm surprised how well it went so far.......maybe getting the idle controls and knock sensor will smooth that out but expect to have to either go nistune or start burning proms to get everything perfect.
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Sweet.........injectors gum up on those engines.
Engine heat will unstick most but some injectors don't like their connector and the vibrations cause them to get better contact after a minute of the engine shaking around on 3 cylinders.
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Careful with that wire off the positive side.
It goes to a condensor but I believe it may only be for noise suppression.
Under no circumstances should it not go through a cap if it goes to ground since it the 12v feed side of the coil.
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It is an injected motor but I used the throttle shaft which should be the same thickness (not sure) for carbs or injection.
I took a cruise control "throttle cam" that fits right next to the true throttle cam on the throttle body off of a 1992 stanza.
You need it and the plastic sleeve that fits into it.
This makes it the exact same diameter as the injected throttle shaft.
Due to space limitations, I cut away a bit of the throttle cam leaving the minimum required to keep the cable always in the groove.
I ground and cut up a throttle cable mount off of a VG30 (most have two) and will someday weld it up to use both bolts and make it look sweet.
I'm not sure what you have to mount the cable mount to or how long a cable you have but the basic idea of mounting the cam there should work.
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Yellow white wire goes from ecu to the terminal on the transistor that runs longways on the connector and the black white wire goes from the key switch to feed 12v to the setup on the terminal that is perpendicular to the length of the connector.
The blue wire off the negative side of the coil goes through a resistor (not all cars) and then to the body harness eventually ending up at the tach.
The other wire off the positive side of the coil and goes through the condensor and ends up being grounded to the body......many times by a coil/transistor assembly bracket bolt.
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Remember that these cars were designed when the speed limit was 55mph.
So.......it's very easy to run the car above the revs at which the ecu decides to start ignoring sensors.
This is a huge problem for 280zx turbo drivers because stock gearing puts the engine in the aforementioned state while cruising around 70 or 75mph......not sure what rpms this happens in the N/A version.
This kills mileage.
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The coil/transistor unit from the 280zx turbo is different.
If you cannot get this, you can use a Z31/maxima/pathfinder VG30 coil/transistor unit but you will also need the connectors and spend some time making sure the wires go to the proper places by comparing both manuals.
I did this and used that tiny resistor/condensor unit from the later cars on my 1981 280zx turbo system.
These parts litter the junkyards of america and are cheap.
The resistor/diode unit looks like an unused connector with no hole to plug in another connector.
The fact that there are a different amount of terminals on the coil/transistor unit from later cars will require a bit of head scratching until you find that the original zx turbo unit actually branches off the 12v inside the transistor to send to the coil internally before the transistor circuitry acts on it.
I'll try to give a hand but it will have to be tonight because I am busy.
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That's enough compression to run it so might as well hook it up, run it, and you might find everything is ok.
At the very least, you can use that engine to get the rest of the hook-up issues done and then replace the long block as a unit knowing the new unit will start right up.
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The 3.54s make 4th gear amazing for highway fun and you still have 5th to for crusing.
I did that in my maxima but ran 215/50-15s.
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Sweet.......good to see a screw in solution.
This one pictured only works if you can leave penetrating oil on it for a while and get those little bolts out........without snapping them off since it's unbelievably hard to drill them on the car.
I used a stainless toyota egr gasket.
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It was just something that popped into my head.......no resources to pull something like that off.
I used to just about live at the patent office at crystal city, va. and noticed that most people doing "patent searches" were there doing "idea searches" rather than coming up with it on thier own.
A patent is only as good as one's ability to enforce it and people take advantage of that.
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I think you solved a stinky Z car mystery I had in 1990.
I never though of looking there and the smell slowly abated over weeks.
ZX won't start! volt meter goes to zero!
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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And don't let anybody stand there next to the battery when cranking until you clean them up or you risk a battery explosion.