HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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One controls the idle and one controls the egr valve.
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I am probably mistaken on the module....don't remember what came on the 280z.
Was thinking it was a E12-80 equipped distributor but probably isn't.
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Mitchell on demand and Alldata should have waveform detail in the diagnostic proceedure for a VSS code.
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The little black box on the distributor is usually the culprit.
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The infiniti M30 shares the same unibody as the R31 and, to some extent the R32.
Just buy one of them for a grand and bolt in the skyline drivetrain, suspension, and brakes.
Anyone who drives a skyline in the U.S. will end up having to replace his badges on a monthly basis because of vandals.
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Tomorrow, Obama will unveil a "dramatic" plan on automotive emissions that may very well impact us here.
I will be especially interested in whether they offer exemptions for older classic cars and what the definiton of "classic" will be.
Hopefully, they will use the tailpipe test as the tell all rather than just disqualify a car because of it's year of manufacture since I will be running my l28et on an OBDII ecu soon.
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The important sensor is the one who's harness gets in your way when replacing spark plugs.
It's the one that tells the engine management system the coolant/head temperature.
The connectors on these are similar to the injector connectors and are known to corrode (turn blue/green) very badly.
If it's disconnected, you will get unbelievably rich running but corrosion can add to resistance which could cause the ecu to think the car is colder than it is and add fuel accordingly.
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The re-animator of this thread did add new information that may benefit someone using the search function so all is cool.
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Clogged strainer............but what parts of the tranny are clogging it may be the bigger concern.
Usually a clogged strainer will allow you to turn off the car once it loses drive, and immediately restart and have drive........for a very short time.
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I've rebuilt cracked turbos on my kitchen table and only replaced the bearings and piston ring type seal..........didn't replace seal on compressor side and ran that 280zx turbo as a daily driver for the about 4 years after that.
I did it to run the car while I rebuilt a much better condition turbo but it never died so I left it alone and drove it 50,000 miles.
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Just finished my l28et/3n71b in a infiniti M30 and drove it about a mile and then no drive in any gear.
Coasted into parking lot and called wrecker.
Started car out of curiousity and had drive just fine for about 400 yards and then no drive again.
Turned it off and immediately restarted car and got drive for another 400 yards.
At that point I knew it was debris coming up to clog the filter and then sinking back down until sucked up again.
Opened up the tranny and found a mini-mountain of rear clutch particles in pan just under filter pickup hole.
Took out and apart tranny and, other than the clutch frictions drying out from 5 years storage (twice) everything else specs out ok.
It seems these trannies are bulletproof..........as long as you don't overheat them and end up with burnt fluid with abrasive chunks circulating to all the bearings.
If you have a jatco automatic, best thing to do is turn it off at the first sign of trouble and there should be very little damage.
The 280zx turbo tranny 3 speed 3n71b....... from front to back........has 4 clutch plates in the front (not the steels) 6 in the middle, and 7 in the rear (low/reverse clutch).....I think...will check later.
Time to do some valve body mods now that it's out.
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I grind the end of a box wrench thin so I can get full grip on the bolts/nuts.
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Is this a round housing?
If so, it has a heater coil in it acting on the bi-metal spring.
This causes the choke to turn off sooner since it is usually only needed for the first few seconds of running rather than the 8 minutes it would take for conduction to heat the spring through the carb.
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Bosch used to sell books on the technical and service aspects of every flavor of it's fuel injection systems.
Not sure if they still do.
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Put a timing light on it and see if the knock sound happens at the same speed as the flashes or twice that.
If same speed, then it's top end.
If twice that, it's bottom end.
If it idles slow enough and is bottom end noise, sometimes you can use the light to determine which cylinder it is....sometimes.
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Car and driver got a 15.2 quarter mile out of the 1981 280zx turbo automatic.
The reason the time was better than the other magazines is because the driver at car and driver braketorqued it for around 3 seconds before he let it go while the other magazines just hit it.
A lot of grand national drag tests by magazines were compromised the same way by guys who didn't bring up boost before leaving the line.
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If spliced right, he will only add an inch of unshielded wire to the already 4+ inches that are already there in stock form.
I don't see any problems with this and have done this many times with zero effect on signalling.
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LOL........Nissan's original parts on these cars last forever.
My last 280zx turbo had original hoses that were still good in 2005.
The belts went in 2001 and the gates replacements lasted about 1 year each time I replaced them.
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I was just identifying the flange for a US market 280zx but since you are overseas, that flange could be used on other cars I don't see here.
It also could have been swapped over since my M30 (leopard) will have this flange on a R200 by the end of the day tomorrow even though it came with the round Z31 flange.
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That looks to be one out of a 280zx turbo.
The input flange is round on the Z31 and sports 10mm bolts while the 280zx turbo flange is has 10mm bolts but the pattern is rectangular.
If it has 8mm bolts on a round flange, it could be out of a s12 200sx turbo or V-6.
If it's 3.54, it's probably out of a 280zx turbo.
I'm actually after one and will pull it tomorrow from a junkyard.
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Any splice is better than a corroded wire.
Just pull back the shielding and make sure it doesn't make contact with the center conductor.
In stock form, you already have at least 4 inches of non-sheilded wire anyway.
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Every molecule of that car is in it's proper place......amazing.
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I would put two old plugs into the non-firing cylinders and run the car to get some heat into the setup.
Just keep it running with your foot on the gas long enough to get it to operating temperature and shut it down.
Let it sit for 1/2 hour then restart and shut down so you can check if those plugs are now wet.
If they are, put in the two good/new plugs and see if you get all cylinders.
Heat does better than most anything else when unsticking injectors.
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The center and rearmost terminals should have continuity only at dead closed throttle.
You should lose continuity with only the slightest movement of the throttle but let it move a few thousandths before you lose continuity or you could end up with it coming off and on a billion times per second with engine vibration.
On the non turbos, you have three terminals and you get idle on the rearmost two and you also get "full throttle" coming in at about 3/4 to 7/8 of full throttle body opening.
On the non-turbos the ecu only uses the idle.
There are two microswitches inside it so you won't getting a change in resistence but rather on or off depending on throttle position.
Why do my tail lights and dashboard lights only go on when I brake?
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
It is because you somehow got the bulb in 180 degrees of what it should be.
It is possible if you push hard enough.
This will sometimes blow the fuse but it will also backfeed the parking/dash lights with power that is supposed to go to the brake light filament.