HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Is this the one from a previa van?
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Did you prime the oil pump?
No spark plugs so it probably isnt the spark plug wire...
LOL that information showed up after my posting........nice try though.
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When your testing compression your basically testing a non-firing cylinder so wouldnt all of them show the same low compression if its just fuel washing away the oil....
No..........because you're not running injectors while doing a compression test.
If a the car has a miss because a cylinder isn't firing but the injector is still firing, it will wash fuel down on that cylinder and lower compression on that cylinder.
So...........you condemn an engine that might only have a bad spark plug wire.
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Back in the 80s, many setups used reed valves for check valving.
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The answer lies in the tunnels under the nixon whitehouse on Key Biscayne.
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I would guess you're checking it because it is not running right.
A car with a cylinder that isn't firing will have low compression on the non-firing cylinder........if it is getting fuel because the unburned fuel can wash down the rings causing a bad seal.
The oil suggested above will get you around that and I hope you're checking compressison with the distributor or crank angle sensor unplugged and the throttle plate open as these will have an impact on your compression readings.
If the car is not running on a cylinder or two, you can unplug the injector on that cylinder and run the engine for a small bit to get the proper amount of oil in the bore and rings and then do a compression test rather than put oil down the bores which could disguise a ring problem.
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Sounds to me like excessive blow by that is more than the pcv valve can take care of.
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I no longer have a flapper to confirm this but I seem to remember that the flapper even on non-turbo cars pegs full open most any time the throttle is all the way open...even at relatively low rpms.
One thing to consider when tightening the spring is that you are defeating one of the benefits of fuel injection which is the lack of a restrictive venturi in the carbs it replaces.
Anyone here can run put a meter on the terminals of the afm where it returns the resisted 5v reference back to the ecu and the sensor ground and then turn on the key and push the flapper completely open to read the full open voltage returned to check this.
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I've been keeping an eye on electric motor technology as it applies to the possibility of a usable (not ebay) electric turbocharger and, at the same time, reviewing WWII "power recovery turbine" technology.
I really got into power recovery technology as a young man in miami where I just happened to be around when an extra set of hands were required to clean/replace spark plugs when a friend of my father was prepping a Lockeed Constellation for takeoff.
Being a young man in college for A&P training visiting dad, I was more than willing to unscrew all 144 spark plugs just to get near one of those engines. (A&P put them back in).
I remember being fascinated when told what the strange turbines were for.
The engines use a turbo hot section geared to the crankshaft to recover exhaust gases and turn them into torque through a torque convertor like fluid coupling.
The benefits of this are only useful in long term power production with steady state throttle positon.........like a cruising airplane though volvo has recently been revisiting this on the assumption that the slight efficiency increase of about 3 or 4 percent might become viable if gas prices continue to climb.
Anyway.......I was thinking about this and saw an electric turbo ad banner (not sure which site would advertise that crap) and was wondering about using "power recovery" to drive a generator/motor on the turbo shaft to pull down turbine rpms by charging a bank of batteries instead of venting the exhaust gases through the waste gate once boost limit is reached.
Since many high speed generators in the aviation industry are also starter motors when used on turbine engines, I was thinking you could also use said bank of batteries to drive the turbo shaft to combat boost lag or build boost under conditions where the engine does not have enough exhaust gases to build boost on it's own.
This could allow one to use a bigass turbo tailored for huge hp up top but also be able to build boost early in the rpm range though this might only benefit long haul trucks that stay under boost for long periods of time........not really sure.
Motor/generator as well as battery technology has come a long way in regards to efficiency the last decade.
Insane in the membrane?
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Playing with the spring tension won't do much good for richness while on boost since the air flow meter is pegged all the way open long before you start getting boost.
The stock tune is very rich at boost but obviously gets a little less rich at the higher rpms.
I believe the RPM at which the L28et "closes it's mind and starts ignoring sensors" is about 3500rpms from my monitoring on the highway and reading the turbo supplement of the factory service manual.
Kind of sucks knowing the the 280zx turbo was designed when the speed limit was 55mph since the stock (auto) configuration nets you rpms at the new speed limits that puts your car just slightly over the rpm threshold at which the ecu starts ignoring sensors..........unless you're running 3.36 with the auto or a manual tranny with 3.54 or lower gears.
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I used it on a rotary engine because it was necessary to run more than a single chamber muffler but multi-chamber mufflers were too restrictive to run a single.......so I ran two.
Haven't done it on a nissan yet but will soon enough on my M30 infiniti since it seems to have tons of room back there.
That pic is someone elses project......link below.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1003620#post1003620
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I ran a L24e maxima for 50,000 miles on stock 280zx turbo boost using the stock injectors.
I'm sure it was near leaning out but the car is 2.4 liters versus 2.8.
Since all the L24e and L28e run the same size injectors, I ran the L28 ecu in the hopes it ran slightly longer pulse width because of the larger engine but there might not be any difference.
I was also running cheap aftermarket python injectors (white color) so it is possible they flow more than they should because they are cheap.
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Shorter rods = more rod angle at a given stroke.
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Careful with aluminum.
Taps put into a hole that has good threads but with dirt can cause the always hungry tap to eat some thread.
Go easy with them on aluminum and only work them the minimum needed.
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I'll be installing some injectors that sat for 4 years tomorrow as well.
I'll let you know how they panned out.
I pulled the rail on a car that was still warm and quickly hooked one of the fuel hoses from the supply to the return line keeping fuel in the whole works.
The fuel comes out a few years later not really smelling as old as you would think probably because there is no space for the more aromatic elements within the fuel mix to evaporate out.
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Found it on the net.......not sure if the original poster/photographer got permission, though.
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Random pic
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The switch is in the airflow meter.
There are a few things that can cause this.
1. someone wired it to work around a non-functional microswitch.
2. there is a mouse nest in the airflow meter holding the flap open.
3. the flap is sticking partially open
4. someone opened the plastic cover and bent the microswitch terminals together.
If you unplug the airflow meter and the pump still runs........it is number 1.
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Careful careful careful.
The rest of the bolts in the engine voted the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt "most likely to snap off".
He won by a large margin.
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If the car sat for a while, you will get the exact injector symptom you get.
I've started many an injected Z that sat for years and just did it yesterday on a fuel injector rail that sat for 4 years.
In my case, the car was only injecting on 1 cylinder and I kept it running by spraying into a vacuum barb. (careful not to wash down cylinder walls)
I ran it long enough to let the engine get some warmth and let it sit for a few minutes to let conduction bring heat to the injectors.
When I restarted, I had two injectors actually injecting fuel and didn't need to spray anymore but had to keep the throttle open.
Eventually it was 3, then 4 and then 5....etc.
Heat will unstick a gummed up injector.
If you have one firing injector, you should be able to listen to it with a screwdriver on your ear and compare it's sound to the ones that aren't firing and make a distinction but I would also make sure the injector terminals are making good contact first since this is an issue many have.
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A simple piezo sensor does just fine for listening to anything it is attached to.
Radio shack sells them as piezo buzzers but they are good pickups as well.
I use them on electronic drums..........check the electronic drum forums and you should find many threads discussing frequency response and even part numbers.
The hard part is deciding which material to use to mount them and finding the right sensor that has sensitivity in the desired frequency range.
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Your turbo drain is probably clogged causing the oil to seek exit through the extremely hot exhaust housing.
Sometimes you would be amazed at how little smoking you get when oil passes this way.
Also.........these cars are notorious for gumming up the throttle body which means the clearance between the throttle plate and the throttle body bore has been filled with gunk.
This usually requires throttle body cleaning but I got away pulling a hose off of the side of the black tube that goes to the throttle body and sprayed a good blast (without wand attached) into the tube while keeping the engine running and had someone turn off the key just as I sprayed it.
I then worked the throttle plate a few times and restarted the car.
You don't want that stuff acting on rubber for any length of time so a restart is important almost right away.
It might work but I recommend pulling that tube and cleaning it proper but I would make sure you have a replacement for any hose you have to remove close by since that is highly likely that a hose will crack.
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I third the hankooks.
They used to be my secret tire but now everybody wants them once a class ran them as spec tires.
You really can't have the cake and eat it too concerning wear vs performance.
Most performance tires that last are usually just below the performance level a person wants but, if you are willing to accept a little less performance, it seems michelin tires beat the rest by a large margin concerning wear.
Not sure why but it's always seemed that way.
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The bluebird guys are all over the nissan solid axle topic.
They should be able to help greatly.
Insane wastegate alternative
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Crap........patented in 1994 but I didn't see the patent mentioning using the loads of generating electricity to provide boost control..
Expires in 4 years.