HowlerMonkey
-
Posts
1451 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
-
-
On 280zx, I always use the front crossmember and the rear diff.........unless I have a flat tire on the side of the road.
Since the 50 buck jack that most people buy doesn't fit under the front, I usually drive the car onto two small 2x4 blocks.
If I have to jack on the pinch welds (stock points) I am careful to use a wooden block turned 45 degrees and don't lift it high enough to cause the jack to try to pull which will could cause the dreaded fold over of the jack points.
I worked at the Z shop of miami so long ago that my bay had no lift.
I had to jack up every car and put it on jack stands to work on it.
After that experience, everything now is a cakewalk.
-
Is the distributor and cap and rotor new?
I've seen carbon tracking do some really wierd stuff.
-
Understand totally...........Z cars aren't the only cars many of us use our brains on.
It might be a tight halfshaft u-joint.
-
I prefer good gameplay and realistic physics to graphics candy anyway.
That's why the Wii grabbed so much market share on units with superior graphics horsepower.
That said, it's hard to beat Grand Prix II or Grand Prix Legends (viper racing is the same as GPL) for realistic driving but there are newer games in GTLand GTR which have better graphics and sweet multiplayer options.
If you like good gameplay and airplanes, I recommend Warbirds Freehost which is ...........well..........free because some russian developers got ahold of the code and are now hosting arenas full of people itching to shoot you down in a WWII plane.
It's run on an older version but that's the only price you pay since it is free.
If you think you will take off in a mustang and own, you are sadly mistaken as the mustang is only the top performer at super high altitudes and speeds and you just don't find many opponents who want to spend 15 minutes to climb that high.
Come on over and receive some pepperidge if you dare.
You do need a stick to fly and I recommend a "twisty stick" because the twisting is for rudder action.
A good entry level stick was the top gun fox pro but it seems to have been discontinued but.......the more generic thrustmaster "usb joystick" looks much like it and probably costs less.
It takes a bit of installation mojo and learning curve but I'm still playing it 10 years later while Grand Theft Auto and all the other Xbox games sit collecting dust.
-
Clearly, I need something better than the cheapy harbor freight auto darkening helmet.
On using it, I have found out a few things.
It works as advertised but it goes so unbelievably dark that I can hardly see my work.
This is at the lightest setting while full on dark would probably protect one from a nuke detonated only blocks away.
Does anybody have experience with a different brand that has a better range of "darkening" that is actually useful?
One more thing.........don't use an auto darkening helmet outside at night.
I stuck my first "night arc" with this helmet and got a big strobe effect before the auto darkening clamped down.
I then tested this by pointing a light at the solar cell to keep it live and got no strobe effect.
I believe this is because it is powered by a solar cell so...........if you don't have ambient light powering the unit, you get a delay in darkening since the unit is not actually "live" in the dark...........apparently the circuitry doesn't include a capacitor/condensor or battery like device to keep it live in the lull between arcs.
Just a heads up that will save your vision if you weld in a dark area that might not have enough ambient light to keep the unit responsive.
I'm sure taking it apart and using a battery rather than the solar option would stop this but I'm done with this helmet anyway because of the "too dark" experience.
-
Pinion angles changes with ride height?
Doubt that but halfshaft angle will.
-
If you see the tach twitch, then the coil is not being fired at that time.
I would guess it's the black module on the distributor.
Sometimes you can wiggle the connector and influence the intermittent problem to occur as well as tapping near it on the housing of the distributor with a brass drift.
-
1987 300zx non-turbos manuals have 3.9 as do some 200sx turbos though some have 4.1
-
Mercruiser is a inboard/outboard maker.
Mercury is the outboard division.
There have been some good innovations in 4 stroke outboards lately.
Supercharged inline six of 275hp.
-
The merlin 9.4 is a chevy 572.........same size as a 396 except for the taller deck which widens it only a little.
It's what mercruiser used/uses on the 1000sc engines back in the 1990s.
Not sure if they still use it as I usually see 540 as of recently.
-
I test fitted a merlin 9.4 liter (572) and it went right in.
It seems the ford modular engine is damn wide and you might have trouble fitting it.
I've seen the caddy 500/501 in a 910 maxima and I really love that pic of the 472 but your choice may depend on availability of parts since that pic above probably has most every performance part made for the caddy engine in one place.
-
It depends on what S130 the R200 came out of.
The non turbo S130 should have the one on the left as well as the S12 200sx turbo R200.
The one in the center is found on s130 turbos.
The one on the right fits Z31 and infiniti M30 and possibly the S13.
I measured the R180 flange that is the size of the one on the left and it does not bolt onto the R200.........the bolt is the same size and thread but the splined part of the shaft is larger.
-
If you're running a catalytic convertor, zero muffler has a nice low rumble without any harshness.
I'm going with two chambered mufflers side by side because of restriction because I like my cars very quiet.
Someone here (djz) is doing it but hasn't finished it yet but has pics of two side by side.
-
I walk the junkyards most every weekend for this kind of stuff but that pic up above sounds like the best solution.
I do know that the early toyota camry (84 84) with distributor in middle of the head comes with a intake tube that worked on my 1984 L24e maxima but I didn't use the turbo airflow meter.
I'm going tomorrow for one that goes from the turbo inlet to the MAF on a L28 in infiniti M30 car.
-
I both outside........I will check.........well tomorrow...it's after midnight and the neighbors won't appreciate me impacting away this late.
I do know that axle shafts ends that plug into the diff on the R180 are smaller diameter.
-
All this work is great, but i think either Howlermonkey is missing the point of Unclejesse's post, or he understands and i am just missing it: the '02 villager 'distributor' wheel, from the picture, LOOKS very similar to the '82/'83 ZX 'distributor' wheel. If they are not identical marking wise, are they able to be swapped out mechanically? still doesn't sort out the crank angle sensor, but it does provide an easy method of getting the cam sensor sorted out.
Sure the 280zx distributor optical wheel is different than the 300zx wheel but the 300zx wheel is the same as the quest wheel..........I've compared both and have run a z31 system on the L28 as early as 1989.
It's just a matter of time before I find a quest/villager/pathfinder/qx4/frontier that is apart so I can see the tone wheel...............that and a real job so I can stop rolling up my change.
In my 3 cars, I have found 160.00 worth of change in the last week.
If nissan/infiniti hires me either as a tech or service writer, then this will move really quickly.
-
The quest ecu is sequential, it requires no extra coils, it is fully OBD2 compliant, it runs with a single coil, it expects the same distributor waveform as delivered by any VG30 or VG33 single cam engine from 1984 to 2002, and you can flash it with a new bin file through the OBD2 port.
The only "work" needed to run this is putting in three 02 sensors and supplying it the crank angle waveform it expects.
To do this, all I need to do is actually see the tone wheel so I can duplicate the signal it creates and the rest is easy though some fancy placement of the 02 sensors in a single log manifold might be needed to satisfy the "two bank" scheme.
-
The ES and the RX were front drive but some RX are all wheel drive and the RX400h (which I drove as a company car when I worked for lexus) was a really unusual setup with an electric motor in the rear of the car.
They were not a whole lot bigger than a differential and one in the front and one in the rear of a little car like a toyota FX (steep hatchback) would be a lot of fun.
I'm just waiting to find two of those rear motors for sale.......someday.
-
Not sure about that second link Grim since it defines an "oversquare" engine as one with a longer stroke than bore.........which is backwards.
-
I'm pretty sure 1sickZ used to get ridiculous hp out of some pretty stock configurations.
-
I've been a big fan of the twin muffler setup since the early 80s when I ran them on RX-2s.
Good too see you didn't have to angle them over because of height issues.
I'll probably be going this route on my M30 since I want to run 2 chamber mufflers to keep the noise down but still get decent flow........plus......I like the look.
-
The lexus GS has never been a front drive.
Back in 1998, it was a 13.8 second rear driver.
They added a direct injected V6 and AWD for some models in the last few years since toyota will stop importing the 2jz soon if not already.
-
-
I've seen a few old formula race car engine that exhausted like that.
Here's a ferrari from 1967
Sure the engine is strange but the fuel tank/bladder scheme is downright scary.
Big balls or small brians, the drivers had back then.
Modified oil cooler lines for L28ET auto?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I think the bolts are the same as the ones used on the water cooling for Z31 turbos.
If so, then you have another choice on the metal lines from said turbo which you can swage oil lines to.
Might be wrong but I think I just did this last year.