HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Your turbo drain is probably clogged causing the oil to seek exit through the extremely hot exhaust housing.
Sometimes you would be amazed at how little smoking you get when oil passes this way.
Also.........these cars are notorious for gumming up the throttle body which means the clearance between the throttle plate and the throttle body bore has been filled with gunk.
This usually requires throttle body cleaning but I got away pulling a hose off of the side of the black tube that goes to the throttle body and sprayed a good blast (without wand attached) into the tube while keeping the engine running and had someone turn off the key just as I sprayed it.
I then worked the throttle plate a few times and restarted the car.
You don't want that stuff acting on rubber for any length of time so a restart is important almost right away.
It might work but I recommend pulling that tube and cleaning it proper but I would make sure you have a replacement for any hose you have to remove close by since that is highly likely that a hose will crack.
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I third the hankooks.
They used to be my secret tire but now everybody wants them once a class ran them as spec tires.
You really can't have the cake and eat it too concerning wear vs performance.
Most performance tires that last are usually just below the performance level a person wants but, if you are willing to accept a little less performance, it seems michelin tires beat the rest by a large margin concerning wear.
Not sure why but it's always seemed that way.
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The bluebird guys are all over the nissan solid axle topic.
They should be able to help greatly.
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Yep tony......I tested that at lexus and found that they will crank for 10 seconds by itself when I unplugged the coils.
They needed this get this step tried and true before evolving to the start button.
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One other thing to consider is that the crank was slightly bent by a hydrolock event.
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Anyone here doing any standing mile racing?
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I'm temporarily stopping research on this for a short while since I need to concentrate on making money.
I've been tapped to be the japanese tuner at a performance shop but I have huge gaps in my knowledge considering running a dyno so I may end recruiting talent instead of doing the job......not sure yet.
If you're local to West Palm Beach and are a japanese specific tuner with dyno experience, you might find the facility to your liking.
PM me here or send e.mail if you can fill the job.
The dyno has 2000hp capability.
I'm helping out putting together sensors for a 6 stage boost controller so he can have different boost limits for each gear selected since his car puts down a bit north of 1500hp.
Apparently the time based system is lacking and tailored to drag racing so the boost controller will have to use the gear based function.
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Looking at the list of vehicles it comes in, It's very possible that it bolts right up to a FS5R30 tranny.
I'm a bit torn on common rail electronically injected diesels because I used to service the injector driver modules on them and found them unbelievably expensive to replace........and very dangerous to the guy testing them because they operate at over 100 volts and also have pretty high amperage.
They also won't allow you to drive around during the zombie apocalypse because the first EMP will take them out while the old archaic bosch VE pump cars will keep on mowing down zombies through many a nuke.
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Make sure all the ring terminals coming out of the injection harness are grounded.
I would also make sure you have a good body ground.
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I'm actually working on using the nissan dual feed injectors on the L engine by cutting up two stock fuel rails and using the Z31 pressure regulator.
They are designed to accept fuel from the side feed and then the top feed is where fuel exits the injector once the regulator starts returning fuel to the tank.
In a strictly top feed system, fuel does not flow through the injector to cool it until it is injected.........which might take a while.
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I'll venture a bet you are talking about the the one in the center.
This is the same flange used on the 280zx turbo automatic cars.
Now the yoke that fits into the tranny tailshaft on the 280zx non turbo automatics should also fit the fs5w71b tranny........at least it did on my 1984 maxima.
The yoke that fits the tranny tailshaft of a 280zx turbo automatic has the same outside diameter as the non-turbo but the output shaft is thicker.
Sadly.....I have no information on the T5 driveshaft.
I will measure a 280zx turbo automatic driveshaft tomorrow and post the dimensions here.
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I recently got released/fired.
I have interviews this week with the competition as it seems my area has a few companies like this.
I could end up a nissan, infiniti, toyota, or lexus technician by the end of the week which would gain me access to what's needed but working in a very hot shop is something I promisied myself I would never do again.
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The brown plug goes to the efi relay.
I'm pretty sure you can get one from a Z31 or maxima of 80s vintage that will work but check the diagrams first.
The other one is used when using the nissan ECCS analyzer but not for general running.
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My question is: what is the point in doing all this work, when you can tune your car with a fully hacked oem ecu that you pick up in jy for a few bucks and nistune or similar. You can control injector size, injector phasing, fuel over several maps, use any voltage base maf you want, convert it to map if you want, sequential injections, run coil on plug, single coil, wasted spark, dwell control (rpm and timing based), control a water injection pump, control boost, decel timing, fuel cut, over boost control, hot startup enrich, cold startup enrich, start up timing and more that I can't remember off the top of my head.
Which oem nissan ecus have sequential injection on an engine that doesn't have variable valve timing or requires a 180 tooth crank angle sensor?
The answer is the M30 ecu and the quest/frontier/xterra/villager ecu.
The quest/frontier/xterra/villager obdII ecus litter the junkyards of america and require the exact signals that the factory L28et engine sensors already output.
My goal is to pass emissions in a 1991 car with a L28et in it, get better efficiency with sequential injection and be able to flash a new calibration to it with anything from a Blue streak global programmer or Iflash unit to the good old Vetronix mts3100 scan tool.
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Shouldn't have mentioned it since it is tons more involved but it really is the future..........just too soon to be affordable or doable at this time.
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I'm not sure the ecu cares whether resistors are on the positive or the negative side of the injectors since they are only there to limit current as seen by the drivers in the ecu.
Care has to be taken if you're using any of the factory harness since many gang both the positive and negative sides of individual injectors together.
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Stock 1981 280zx turbo resistor uses 7 terminals.
One supply and the six individual resisted outputs.
Dropping resistors can be wired in anywhere between feed to the injectors.
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Holy crap........tired of restating what has already been said multiple times in this thread.
This thread is like watching history channels "dogfights" where they feel the need to recap the entire show after each advertisement.
The "good starting point" is that a VG33er (supercharged ecu) uses the same signalling as the Z31 ecu, has the turbo injectors, offers sequential injection, and is flash updatable by a shitload of scantools and programmers.
Using the fact that these OBDII ecus both supercharged and non-supercharged have the same injector sizes as the Z31 and L28et ecu, then it's easy to use a hex editor search function on the known values and you can divine where they exist.......if they even are in a different location........they might be in the same area.
You know I've been doing exactly this kind of stuff for a living for the last 3 years by writing test profiles for signal generators contained within the ecu testers with which I test thousands of ecus a year by testing every single bit of functionality that most any mainstream ecu offers.
If you've ever bought an ecu from Carquest, pep boys, and thousands of other car parts chains in north america, chances are that you bought one I tested/repaired.......or wrote the programming that allows us to test them.
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Pull the valve cover and check if something up top is not allowing a valve to close fully.
It might just be somebody who did a horrible valve adjustment.......though if it were driven a long time, the open valve might have burnt.
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Stratified charge is multiple spark.
Some direct injection schemes use multiple spray events.......I know.......I don't need to google it because I am a direct injection certified Lexus Technician.
Direct injection atomizes the fuel to an unbelievable degree using up to 2000psi.......much better than injecting it against the back of a closed intake valve at 43psi pressure.
Turbulence has been used mainly to hold relatively large fuel droplets as delivered by 43psi injectors to hold the fuel in suspension.
With high pressure direct injection, this isn't an issue and that is why they can run super lean air/fuel ratios and high compression ratios up to 12 to 1 with regular unleaded gasoline.
Now this is a nissan L6 forum and I doubt anybody is even thinking about direct injection since most here aren't pursuing anything past bank fired injection except in relatively recent Haltech, Electromotive setups..........so the grooves might be worth pursuing but I would combine it with a true sequential setup if I spent the time to machine the head.
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If you go direct injection, would turbulence be needed?
I always figured turbulence was to better atomize fuel that was in too large droplets.
Direct injection allows lexus to run 11.8 to 1 compression ratio in their direct injection V6.
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I'm sure any of the many software packages that allows editing of the Z31 and others binaries will do.
You might get away easy with just finding the VG33er (supercharged) calibration file and flashing it to any of that ecu family if you run stock boost.
It's a good starting point.
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What does your turbo drain look like inside?
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I had a rash of quick lube come-backs at a lexus dealership and found the oil way high.
It seems the quick lube guys would replace the filter and walk over to another car since we had an abundance of lifts.
Then they would return and lower the car to fill it........but they forgot to drain the oil.
Lots of smoke.
L28- 3.1 Liter, main bearing issues. Harmonics?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
A simple piezo sensor does just fine for listening to anything it is attached to.
Radio shack sells them as piezo buzzers but they are good pickups as well.
I use them on electronic drums..........check the electronic drum forums and you should find many threads discussing frequency response and even part numbers.
The hard part is deciding which material to use to mount them and finding the right sensor that has sensitivity in the desired frequency range.