HowlerMonkey

I no longer use the tool condominiums and instead roll around a craftsman top and bottom box full of tools specifically geared toward the brand I am working on. I am used to seeing some techs snicker when I show up at new dealership with that setup but laugh inside when the same techs have to swallow pride a few weeks later and ask to borrow a tool from me since I tend to buy what nobody else has or thought to include in his box. This gives you bargaining power within the shop. 95% of that limited selection goes unused if you work at toyota and about 80% will go unused while working for nissan. I cringe when I see a new kid straight out of UTI buy a huge setup from snap-on or mac but it does show a level of commitment. Dollar store box wrenches are good and I've got a drawer full of them that were cut off or bent for a specific task...........those get borrowed a lot as well.

I know this is an old thread but you cannot make a sweeping statement on snap-on welders for the simple fact that more then one manufacturer makes them for snap-on. I got lucky purchasing a FM140 snap-on welder made by CK systematics. It is by far the heaviest 110 volt welder on the market and is a solid machine with quality parts unlike many other snap-on welders. The reason for this is that it features a huge step-up transformer unlike most any other 110 volt welder I have ever seen. It features 100% duty cycle and I've welded a continuous 150+ inches in one run with no trouble. The only thing you have to watch for is making sure you provide it with enough current or you end up with something akin to having a firehose (the fm140) fed by a garden hose (a plug farthest from the electrical panel of the building). Plug it close to the panel and it kicks ass. When looking for welders, search and search for information and reviews before buying.

I am wrong but the statement above is not completely right. If you passed all the exhaust gas first through the small turbo, you would be limited to how much hp the smaller exhaust housing can handle. That would make the big turbo not necessary. Since a few of the pics seem to have disappeared, It looks like the big turbo is fed a branching off of the exhaust that bypassed the small turbo. Personally........I would have designed the kit having the big turbo being fed all the exhaust and then branching the exhaust AFTER it passes through the big snail for routing to the small turbo. With clever wastegate positioning, the setup would be a lot simpler.

There is a secret squirrel technique to backfeed the pump. I used the clear plastic tubing that comes with those lame hand pumps designed to pump from anti freeze containers. I used a plastic tube connector to fit it to a funnel. Then I remove the oil filter and stuff the clear tubing into the oil gallery that feed the filter (not the one in the center) by stuffing it in pointing toward the front of the car as much as possible. I got it in about 1/2 an inch by squeezing and prodding it. Then you put a bit of oil in the funnel and crank the engine by hand backwards. You should see the oil going down the clear tube if you leave a bit or air bubble to use as an indicator of flow. If you crank half a quart or more and fill the filter, you should get pressure right away but I took out the oil pressure sender and watched while cranking with a remote starter switch until I saw oil coming out and quickly put the sender back in before firing the up the engine. I actually had to do this twice since I did it once and got zero pressure. If that happens then you have a bad pump or a pickup that is sucking air. I replacedthe pump with another I had lying around and repeated the process and got pressure right away.

Check whether the idle switch works properly in the TPS.

Are the grounds connected to the intake manifold?

I didn't use any harsh chemicals on mine.........just ran it long enough to get warm, pulled spark plugs to check if the non running cylinders were wet, and used a long screwdriver to listen to the injectors while wiggling terminals. It took a few times getting warm and then shutting it off to let it sit for about 1/2 an hour to unstick them. Making sure the electricity makes the trip should be first.

If the injectors sat for a while, you might have to run the car and get it warm a couple of times to unstick gummed up injectors. I just went through this with 4 sets of injectors and all unstuck eventually. One set actually fouled a plug because that cylinder was too lean to fire.

Any worries about washing down the cylinder walls? Never followed alcohol builds but was wondering whether you have to take the same steps as one would do in a 100% alcohol build. Very cool setup.

Sweet........great idea knowing the big turbo could pass exhaust through to the small turbo.

Semi related. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147040

Wiggle the wires at the connector where it plugs into the ecu while experiencing the failure.

If you do run the other modules, make sure the communication lines make the trip.

Unplug the 02 sensor if not already unplugged and see if you get the same results.

Good find and timing. Also make sure the a/c condensor isn't restricting airflow.

And don't let anybody stand there next to the battery when cranking until you clean them up or you risk a battery explosion.

Torsens for the R200? Datsun dynamics got a few from Leitzinger when they bought some former showroom stock Z31s and replacement quotes in 1990 were around a grand. Maybe it was markup from a bad vendor.

Yeah.......I spun it with rotor off and no shake. It really shakes big time if you get a good spin from your fingers. I'm doing a search on this part as advertised by every manufacturer but all look like this so far. The imbalance is obvious from the pic. Good thing the distributor spins at half crankshaft speed.

Torsen set the price bar that high back in the late 80s/early 90s.

I did this on a car with a cable when fitting the L28. This is the second throttle cam (cruise control) off of a 1992 stanza but it looks very similar to the Z31 cam. I used the cam and the plasitc bushing that it rides on but cut away much of it because of the limited room but left enough to keep the throttle action as linear as possible........probably could have left more but it's fine. I butchered up the cable end mount from a Z31 to mount it to the rail but I will probably fix the look later on. Then I got it the proper adjustment and drilled a hole straight through everything and bolted lightly. I put it there after tons of time spend trying to figure out the best way to use a cable designed for a Z31 and ended up with the cable being a "S" shape but the stock implementation is almost a circle. Definately look at other setups for the best solution but this one does work.

Another helpful thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143375 some of the pics might be the same on both threads but the exhaust manifold turbo placement might be an issue.

I was spinning a 1983 280zx turbo distributor with my fingers doing some checking over on my L28et on a M30 ecu and noticed the entire distributor shook like crazy from the offset weight of the rotor. It looks like an aftermarket rotor so I was wondering if all the 280zx turbo distributor rotors lack the rear facing "counterweight" or do I just have the worst possible rotor in this car? I just don't remember and have no other 280zx turbo rotors to compare it to but I cannot imagine that kind of imbalance is good for the distributor.

Certain nissan throttle cams (actually cruise control cams) slide right over the stock bar linkage. Then it's just finding a place to mount the cable sheath end.

The 1982/1983 distributor has a different socket that meets the oil pump shaft than the 1981 and earlier. I have the complete 1981 setup that uses a crank angle sensor and ran it as a standalone but I wanted to use a newer ecu from either a Z31 or M30. To do this, you need to swap over the encoder disc from a z31 distributor to the l28et distributor. The 1981 distributor is empty so you need the 1982 or 1983 distributor. I pushed out the pins on all of the distributor ends and tried to use the later distributor with the earlier shaft but it requires machining and a lot of work which could compromise the precision of the timing. I got the later oil pump shaft and everthing is sweet running a M30 ecu on the L28et..........well.......it's in a M30 car so I thought it best to try that setup first.

Also........ask the guy at the parts store for a length of "fuel injection hose" and compare it to the hose you currently have. Many car fires are started by people putting low pressure hose on an injected car. Of course a stuck regulator will net you 90psi or so.......but injection hose should handle it no problem. Still..........definately get the pressure correct so you have consistent fuel pressure which will make tuning easier.