HowlerMonkey

Cylinders 1 and 2 will be happy with that geometry.

That is the proper order of wiring......at least from the connector on the power transistor and from there to the coil. It should run with only the connector plugged in. Try unplugging the rest for now. Try unhooking the wires from the power transistor to the coil and see if it still tries to burn the wire. If not, then the coil is shorted. If yes, then the power transistor is fused. Of course, this depends on where the wire is burning

What are you using for your coil? The 280zx turbo coil has power transistor usually mounted on the same assembly with two the signal from the black/white wire passing through the transistor and going to the positive side of the coil. It is easy to get the wiring between the transistor and the coil wrong. This wire also goes to a couple of other things like the auxiliary air control valve heater.

Backwards jump start is usually the culprit but I've seen that damage occur from a person who thought disconnecting the battery terminals while the car was running is a good way to test the alternator. A lifted body to engine ground can also cause crazy spikes and transients.

The VG33ER is already set up for boost.

Don't buy the left hand bits from harbor freight. The ones I recently bought all dulled even at 120rpms with cutting oil.

R200 from 280zx non-turbo..........or R200 from 280zx turbo and find a flange from the two cars mentioned in the post above. If you're going through all the trouble, you should probably not settle for the u-joint type r200 axles and get the R200 c/v type axles. The 280zx n/a R200s will have the greatest variety of available ratios as most 280zx turbos have 3.54.

If the ring is pitted, you might have the same pitting on the pinion bearing. If the car makes a whooshing/hissing noise, then it's the pinion bearing.

You will need the r200 and the axle shafts....and possibly the companion flanges on stub axles if they are different bolt pattern. Also......I believe the R180 uses the smaller M8 bolts on a round flange meaning you will need to get a differential flange that matches the round flange with 8mm bolts. I believe the source for the flange you would need to match any driveshaft that mounts to a r180 would be from a 280zx non-turbo or a 200sx turbo.

If you're going to the 300zx coil, you might want to use the power transistor which is usually attached to it and wire in the condensor/resistor unit (usually located elsewhere on the harness) that you find on vg30 cars. The condensor/resistor unit has both the resisitor and condensor in a single unit that plugs into a single 4 conductor connector. It looks like a connector with a nothing more than a blank plug inserted but does have both. It's easy, to get both the condensor/reisistor unit and the harness plug from the junkyard for about 3 bucks.

The time to get M30 parts is now. In a couple years, only collectors will have them. I went with a L28 to get turbo sweetness without the troubles that car has fitting a turbo to the VG30. It seems the distance from steering rack to firewall is a lot less than the Z31 causes some turbo clearance issues that are near impossible to get around with the stock manifolding. Satan does have a manifold for one that relocates the turbo.

I think satan had some ideas on fitting a turbo using a cross-under pipe setup like that.

I like that fuel rail. I should make two of them to use with the dual feed injectors which should alleviate any vapor lock problems.

How many pairs of socks have metal splinters in them?

Sweet manifold.......good to see that it won't fall victim to causing venturi effect on number one cylinder..........clever design. I expect to see one shaped roughly like a woman's boot at some point.

I found that the warmup regulator and the idle air control were both stuck open on mine and that someone had adjusted down the throttle plate to compensate. I replaced that metal spider of hoses between the parts one hose that goes between idle air control and warmup regulator and another one that goes from the one way valve on the manifold to the barb on the turbo pressure tube. After that, I replaced that crappy screw stop and locknut on the throttle body (idle) with a longer bolt and a nut of a larger outside diameter than the bolt head. I also cleaned the throttle body which I found amazingly gummed up. Everything is fine now and I've moved on to the M30 ecu so I now have a standalone 1981 setup complete in a box I keep in the trunk and a fuel pump jumper wire for an emergency engine management system. I still have egr control and a/c idle up working.

I walk the junkyards measuring anything that looks like it might work. Some cars come with a metal coupler between pipes which is always handy as well to get a non standard swap done.

Here is a pic of what happened in 1 mile of driving with crispy clutch frictions. You can see the galling that started when the low/reverse clutch lost the friction material and ended up metal to metal. The car still moved fine (until filter clogs) and I encountered no slippage. Had the chunks not blocked the filter causing a no-drive condition, this tranny would have died the horrible death that most 3n71b/4n71b die when driven afte they start slipping. If I didn't know that most every single 3n71b and 4n71b in the junkyards had been burnt to the point of needing most every component replaced, I might have been inclined to rebuild these things for profit since they are cake to work on.

Straight six turbo goes in like it belongs there.......it was incredibly easy and I still have a mechanical fan. I just don't see nissan, who has a history or using the same unibody for muliple car lines, go and make a unique unibody for the m30 when the dimensions required to make this rare car are the same as the skyline.

It is because you somehow got the bulb in 180 degrees of what it should be. It is possible if you push hard enough. This will sometimes blow the fuse but it will also backfeed the parking/dash lights with power that is supposed to go to the brake light filament.

One controls the idle and one controls the egr valve.

I am probably mistaken on the module....don't remember what came on the 280z. Was thinking it was a E12-80 equipped distributor but probably isn't.

Mitchell on demand and Alldata should have waveform detail in the diagnostic proceedure for a VSS code.

The little black box on the distributor is usually the culprit.

The infiniti M30 shares the same unibody as the R31 and, to some extent the R32. Just buy one of them for a grand and bolt in the skyline drivetrain, suspension, and brakes. Anyone who drives a skyline in the U.S. will end up having to replace his badges on a monthly basis because of vandals.