HowlerMonkey

There are 4 bolts and one screw involved. First is to spray some penetrating oil on the screw which should allow the sensor to move within the channel. The two outermost bolts will help you get the gap and angle correct. The two inner bolts allow for up and down movement when loosened but you should check whether moving it up or down changes the clearance at either the top of bottom. The other thing you should do is ask why it would need to be changed. If your timing is too advanced, check whether your idle position switch is working.

The engine I mentioned above with the flattops that were hammered out through some rusty bores is now running in a M30. It hasn't smoked the least bit and runs smooth on the M30 ecu with the stock 280zx turbo injectors. I expected it to run pig rich throughout the rpm range but it's fine...........not really sure why but maybe it's learning capability has pulled fueling to compensate. I did fit the M30 smaller 02 sensor but most won't have the luck I had with the screws I used. It has a lexus metal egr gasket under that plate so no leaks. It does get a rough idle after a couple of minutes but I'm surprised how well it went so far.......maybe getting the idle controls and knock sensor will smooth that out but expect to have to either go nistune or start burning proms to get everything perfect.

Sweet.........injectors gum up on those engines. Engine heat will unstick most but some injectors don't like their connector and the vibrations cause them to get better contact after a minute of the engine shaking around on 3 cylinders.

Careful with that wire off the positive side. It goes to a condensor but I believe it may only be for noise suppression. Under no circumstances should it not go through a cap if it goes to ground since it the 12v feed side of the coil.

It is an injected motor but I used the throttle shaft which should be the same thickness (not sure) for carbs or injection. I took a cruise control "throttle cam" that fits right next to the true throttle cam on the throttle body off of a 1992 stanza. You need it and the plastic sleeve that fits into it. This makes it the exact same diameter as the injected throttle shaft. Due to space limitations, I cut away a bit of the throttle cam leaving the minimum required to keep the cable always in the groove. I ground and cut up a throttle cable mount off of a VG30 (most have two) and will someday weld it up to use both bolts and make it look sweet. I'm not sure what you have to mount the cable mount to or how long a cable you have but the basic idea of mounting the cam there should work.

Yellow white wire goes from ecu to the terminal on the transistor that runs longways on the connector and the black white wire goes from the key switch to feed 12v to the setup on the terminal that is perpendicular to the length of the connector. The blue wire off the negative side of the coil goes through a resistor (not all cars) and then to the body harness eventually ending up at the tach. The other wire off the positive side of the coil and goes through the condensor and ends up being grounded to the body......many times by a coil/transistor assembly bracket bolt.

Remember that these cars were designed when the speed limit was 55mph. So.......it's very easy to run the car above the revs at which the ecu decides to start ignoring sensors. This is a huge problem for 280zx turbo drivers because stock gearing puts the engine in the aforementioned state while cruising around 70 or 75mph......not sure what rpms this happens in the N/A version. This kills mileage.

The coil/transistor unit from the 280zx turbo is different. If you cannot get this, you can use a Z31/maxima/pathfinder VG30 coil/transistor unit but you will also need the connectors and spend some time making sure the wires go to the proper places by comparing both manuals. I did this and used that tiny resistor/condensor unit from the later cars on my 1981 280zx turbo system. These parts litter the junkyards of america and are cheap. The resistor/diode unit looks like an unused connector with no hole to plug in another connector. The fact that there are a different amount of terminals on the coil/transistor unit from later cars will require a bit of head scratching until you find that the original zx turbo unit actually branches off the 12v inside the transistor to send to the coil internally before the transistor circuitry acts on it. I'll try to give a hand but it will have to be tonight because I am busy.

That's enough compression to run it so might as well hook it up, run it, and you might find everything is ok. At the very least, you can use that engine to get the rest of the hook-up issues done and then replace the long block as a unit knowing the new unit will start right up.

The 3.54s make 4th gear amazing for highway fun and you still have 5th to for crusing. I did that in my maxima but ran 215/50-15s.

Sweet.......good to see a screw in solution. This one pictured only works if you can leave penetrating oil on it for a while and get those little bolts out........without snapping them off since it's unbelievably hard to drill them on the car. I used a stainless toyota egr gasket.

It was just something that popped into my head.......no resources to pull something like that off. I used to just about live at the patent office at crystal city, va. and noticed that most people doing "patent searches" were there doing "idea searches" rather than coming up with it on thier own. A patent is only as good as one's ability to enforce it and people take advantage of that.

I think you solved a stinky Z car mystery I had in 1990. I never though of looking there and the smell slowly abated over weeks.

Crap........patented in 1994 but I didn't see the patent mentioning using the loads of generating electricity to provide boost control.. Expires in 4 years.

Is this the one from a previa van?

LOL that information showed up after my posting........nice try though.

No..........because you're not running injectors while doing a compression test. If a the car has a miss because a cylinder isn't firing but the injector is still firing, it will wash fuel down on that cylinder and lower compression on that cylinder. So...........you condemn an engine that might only have a bad spark plug wire.

Back in the 80s, many setups used reed valves for check valving.

The answer lies in the tunnels under the nixon whitehouse on Key Biscayne.

I would guess you're checking it because it is not running right. A car with a cylinder that isn't firing will have low compression on the non-firing cylinder........if it is getting fuel because the unburned fuel can wash down the rings causing a bad seal. The oil suggested above will get you around that and I hope you're checking compressison with the distributor or crank angle sensor unplugged and the throttle plate open as these will have an impact on your compression readings. If the car is not running on a cylinder or two, you can unplug the injector on that cylinder and run the engine for a small bit to get the proper amount of oil in the bore and rings and then do a compression test rather than put oil down the bores which could disguise a ring problem.

Sounds to me like excessive blow by that is more than the pcv valve can take care of.

I no longer have a flapper to confirm this but I seem to remember that the flapper even on non-turbo cars pegs full open most any time the throttle is all the way open...even at relatively low rpms. One thing to consider when tightening the spring is that you are defeating one of the benefits of fuel injection which is the lack of a restrictive venturi in the carbs it replaces. Anyone here can run put a meter on the terminals of the afm where it returns the resisted 5v reference back to the ecu and the sensor ground and then turn on the key and push the flapper completely open to read the full open voltage returned to check this.

I've been keeping an eye on electric motor technology as it applies to the possibility of a usable (not ebay) electric turbocharger and, at the same time, reviewing WWII "power recovery turbine" technology. I really got into power recovery technology as a young man in miami where I just happened to be around when an extra set of hands were required to clean/replace spark plugs when a friend of my father was prepping a Lockeed Constellation for takeoff. Being a young man in college for A&P training visiting dad, I was more than willing to unscrew all 144 spark plugs just to get near one of those engines. (A&P put them back in). I remember being fascinated when told what the strange turbines were for. The engines use a turbo hot section geared to the crankshaft to recover exhaust gases and turn them into torque through a torque convertor like fluid coupling. The benefits of this are only useful in long term power production with steady state throttle positon.........like a cruising airplane though volvo has recently been revisiting this on the assumption that the slight efficiency increase of about 3 or 4 percent might become viable if gas prices continue to climb. Anyway.......I was thinking about this and saw an electric turbo ad banner (not sure which site would advertise that crap) and was wondering about using "power recovery" to drive a generator/motor on the turbo shaft to pull down turbine rpms by charging a bank of batteries instead of venting the exhaust gases through the waste gate once boost limit is reached. Since many high speed generators in the aviation industry are also starter motors when used on turbine engines, I was thinking you could also use said bank of batteries to drive the turbo shaft to combat boost lag or build boost under conditions where the engine does not have enough exhaust gases to build boost on it's own. This could allow one to use a bigass turbo tailored for huge hp up top but also be able to build boost early in the rpm range though this might only benefit long haul trucks that stay under boost for long periods of time........not really sure. Motor/generator as well as battery technology has come a long way in regards to efficiency the last decade. Insane in the membrane?

Playing with the spring tension won't do much good for richness while on boost since the air flow meter is pegged all the way open long before you start getting boost. The stock tune is very rich at boost but obviously gets a little less rich at the higher rpms. I believe the RPM at which the L28et "closes it's mind and starts ignoring sensors" is about 3500rpms from my monitoring on the highway and reading the turbo supplement of the factory service manual. Kind of sucks knowing the the 280zx turbo was designed when the speed limit was 55mph since the stock (auto) configuration nets you rpms at the new speed limits that puts your car just slightly over the rpm threshold at which the ecu starts ignoring sensors..........unless you're running 3.36 with the auto or a manual tranny with 3.54 or lower gears.

I used it on a rotary engine because it was necessary to run more than a single chamber muffler but multi-chamber mufflers were too restrictive to run a single.......so I ran two. Haven't done it on a nissan yet but will soon enough on my M30 infiniti since it seems to have tons of room back there. That pic is someone elses project......link below. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1003620#post1003620