HowlerMonkey

I would guess you're checking it because it is not running right. A car with a cylinder that isn't firing will have low compression on the non-firing cylinder........if it is getting fuel because the unburned fuel can wash down the rings causing a bad seal. The oil suggested above will get you around that and I hope you're checking compressison with the distributor or crank angle sensor unplugged and the throttle plate open as these will have an impact on your compression readings. If the car is not running on a cylinder or two, you can unplug the injector on that cylinder and run the engine for a small bit to get the proper amount of oil in the bore and rings and then do a compression test rather than put oil down the bores which could disguise a ring problem.

Sounds to me like excessive blow by that is more than the pcv valve can take care of.

I no longer have a flapper to confirm this but I seem to remember that the flapper even on non-turbo cars pegs full open most any time the throttle is all the way open...even at relatively low rpms. One thing to consider when tightening the spring is that you are defeating one of the benefits of fuel injection which is the lack of a restrictive venturi in the carbs it replaces. Anyone here can run put a meter on the terminals of the afm where it returns the resisted 5v reference back to the ecu and the sensor ground and then turn on the key and push the flapper completely open to read the full open voltage returned to check this.

I've been keeping an eye on electric motor technology as it applies to the possibility of a usable (not ebay) electric turbocharger and, at the same time, reviewing WWII "power recovery turbine" technology. I really got into power recovery technology as a young man in miami where I just happened to be around when an extra set of hands were required to clean/replace spark plugs when a friend of my father was prepping a Lockeed Constellation for takeoff. Being a young man in college for A&P training visiting dad, I was more than willing to unscrew all 144 spark plugs just to get near one of those engines. (A&P put them back in). I remember being fascinated when told what the strange turbines were for. The engines use a turbo hot section geared to the crankshaft to recover exhaust gases and turn them into torque through a torque convertor like fluid coupling. The benefits of this are only useful in long term power production with steady state throttle positon.........like a cruising airplane though volvo has recently been revisiting this on the assumption that the slight efficiency increase of about 3 or 4 percent might become viable if gas prices continue to climb. Anyway.......I was thinking about this and saw an electric turbo ad banner (not sure which site would advertise that crap) and was wondering about using "power recovery" to drive a generator/motor on the turbo shaft to pull down turbine rpms by charging a bank of batteries instead of venting the exhaust gases through the waste gate once boost limit is reached. Since many high speed generators in the aviation industry are also starter motors when used on turbine engines, I was thinking you could also use said bank of batteries to drive the turbo shaft to combat boost lag or build boost under conditions where the engine does not have enough exhaust gases to build boost on it's own. This could allow one to use a bigass turbo tailored for huge hp up top but also be able to build boost early in the rpm range though this might only benefit long haul trucks that stay under boost for long periods of time........not really sure. Motor/generator as well as battery technology has come a long way in regards to efficiency the last decade. Insane in the membrane?

Playing with the spring tension won't do much good for richness while on boost since the air flow meter is pegged all the way open long before you start getting boost. The stock tune is very rich at boost but obviously gets a little less rich at the higher rpms. I believe the RPM at which the L28et "closes it's mind and starts ignoring sensors" is about 3500rpms from my monitoring on the highway and reading the turbo supplement of the factory service manual. Kind of sucks knowing the the 280zx turbo was designed when the speed limit was 55mph since the stock (auto) configuration nets you rpms at the new speed limits that puts your car just slightly over the rpm threshold at which the ecu starts ignoring sensors..........unless you're running 3.36 with the auto or a manual tranny with 3.54 or lower gears.

I used it on a rotary engine because it was necessary to run more than a single chamber muffler but multi-chamber mufflers were too restrictive to run a single.......so I ran two. Haven't done it on a nissan yet but will soon enough on my M30 infiniti since it seems to have tons of room back there. That pic is someone elses project......link below. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1003620#post1003620

I ran a L24e maxima for 50,000 miles on stock 280zx turbo boost using the stock injectors. I'm sure it was near leaning out but the car is 2.4 liters versus 2.8. Since all the L24e and L28e run the same size injectors, I ran the L28 ecu in the hopes it ran slightly longer pulse width because of the larger engine but there might not be any difference. I was also running cheap aftermarket python injectors (white color) so it is possible they flow more than they should because they are cheap.

Shorter rods = more rod angle at a given stroke.

Careful with aluminum. Taps put into a hole that has good threads but with dirt can cause the always hungry tap to eat some thread. Go easy with them on aluminum and only work them the minimum needed.

I'll be installing some injectors that sat for 4 years tomorrow as well. I'll let you know how they panned out. I pulled the rail on a car that was still warm and quickly hooked one of the fuel hoses from the supply to the return line keeping fuel in the whole works. The fuel comes out a few years later not really smelling as old as you would think probably because there is no space for the more aromatic elements within the fuel mix to evaporate out.

Found it on the net.......not sure if the original poster/photographer got permission, though.

Random pic

The switch is in the airflow meter. There are a few things that can cause this. 1. someone wired it to work around a non-functional microswitch. 2. there is a mouse nest in the airflow meter holding the flap open. 3. the flap is sticking partially open 4. someone opened the plastic cover and bent the microswitch terminals together. If you unplug the airflow meter and the pump still runs........it is number 1.

Careful careful careful. The rest of the bolts in the engine voted the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt "most likely to snap off". He won by a large margin.

If the car sat for a while, you will get the exact injector symptom you get. I've started many an injected Z that sat for years and just did it yesterday on a fuel injector rail that sat for 4 years. In my case, the car was only injecting on 1 cylinder and I kept it running by spraying into a vacuum barb. (careful not to wash down cylinder walls) I ran it long enough to let the engine get some warmth and let it sit for a few minutes to let conduction bring heat to the injectors. When I restarted, I had two injectors actually injecting fuel and didn't need to spray anymore but had to keep the throttle open. Eventually it was 3, then 4 and then 5....etc. Heat will unstick a gummed up injector. If you have one firing injector, you should be able to listen to it with a screwdriver on your ear and compare it's sound to the ones that aren't firing and make a distinction but I would also make sure the injector terminals are making good contact first since this is an issue many have.

A simple piezo sensor does just fine for listening to anything it is attached to. Radio shack sells them as piezo buzzers but they are good pickups as well. I use them on electronic drums..........check the electronic drum forums and you should find many threads discussing frequency response and even part numbers. The hard part is deciding which material to use to mount them and finding the right sensor that has sensitivity in the desired frequency range.

Your turbo drain is probably clogged causing the oil to seek exit through the extremely hot exhaust housing. Sometimes you would be amazed at how little smoking you get when oil passes this way. Also.........these cars are notorious for gumming up the throttle body which means the clearance between the throttle plate and the throttle body bore has been filled with gunk. This usually requires throttle body cleaning but I got away pulling a hose off of the side of the black tube that goes to the throttle body and sprayed a good blast (without wand attached) into the tube while keeping the engine running and had someone turn off the key just as I sprayed it. I then worked the throttle plate a few times and restarted the car. You don't want that stuff acting on rubber for any length of time so a restart is important almost right away. It might work but I recommend pulling that tube and cleaning it proper but I would make sure you have a replacement for any hose you have to remove close by since that is highly likely that a hose will crack.

I third the hankooks. They used to be my secret tire but now everybody wants them once a class ran them as spec tires. You really can't have the cake and eat it too concerning wear vs performance. Most performance tires that last are usually just below the performance level a person wants but, if you are willing to accept a little less performance, it seems michelin tires beat the rest by a large margin concerning wear. Not sure why but it's always seemed that way.

The bluebird guys are all over the nissan solid axle topic. They should be able to help greatly. http://aussiebluebirds.com/index.php?board=17.0

Yep tony......I tested that at lexus and found that they will crank for 10 seconds by itself when I unplugged the coils. They needed this get this step tried and true before evolving to the start button.

One other thing to consider is that the crank was slightly bent by a hydrolock event.

Anyone here doing any standing mile racing?

I'm temporarily stopping research on this for a short while since I need to concentrate on making money. I've been tapped to be the japanese tuner at a performance shop but I have huge gaps in my knowledge considering running a dyno so I may end recruiting talent instead of doing the job......not sure yet. If you're local to West Palm Beach and are a japanese specific tuner with dyno experience, you might find the facility to your liking. PM me here or send e.mail if you can fill the job. princemakaha@yahoo.com The dyno has 2000hp capability. I'm helping out putting together sensors for a 6 stage boost controller so he can have different boost limits for each gear selected since his car puts down a bit north of 1500hp. Apparently the time based system is lacking and tailored to drag racing so the boost controller will have to use the gear based function.

Looking at the list of vehicles it comes in, It's very possible that it bolts right up to a FS5R30 tranny. I'm a bit torn on common rail electronically injected diesels because I used to service the injector driver modules on them and found them unbelievably expensive to replace........and very dangerous to the guy testing them because they operate at over 100 volts and also have pretty high amperage. They also won't allow you to drive around during the zombie apocalypse because the first EMP will take them out while the old archaic bosch VE pump cars will keep on mowing down zombies through many a nuke.

Make sure all the ring terminals coming out of the injection harness are grounded. I would also make sure you have a good body ground.