HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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The w41 Quad 442 olds had 190hp with no turbo..........but they do have longeivity issues.
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If you want any fuel mileage to speak of, avoid the rotary.
I ran them for 10 years and dropped them because of mileage and noise.
The renesis is better on gas because of the drastically less overlap.
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A sequential injector scheme with a very good spray pattern would reduce the need for turbulence in the combustion chamber.
Eventually somebody will go Direct injection making turbulence a non-issue.
I wonder when the GM direct injection systems will start showing up in junkyards.
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Same dilemma here.
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Back in the 80s, it was dimples........now it's grooves.
Same theory but what I found was that deposits can remove them by filling them.
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It kind of looks like the description says it is.
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Sweet.
I may give the ecu what it wants off of the 1981 wheel and sensor but I was hoping for something that didn't require such a hard to find part.
If the ecu expects the crank angle sensor waveform that is the same as the one provided by the distributor, then it should be easy.
I still want to see the wheel that the quest/pathfinder/qx4/frontier/villager....etc. has
I guess obd2 certifictation requires long intervals between service that would make a belt driven reference not as accurate and I think obd2 requres phase checking between cam and crank sensor for diagnostics since you can tell from the live data whether there is discrepancy between the two signals.
Really what I want is something everybody can use to get good performance, good emissions, and flashability from the connector.
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One thing to think of when deciding to make one out of an A/C evaporator is the velocity of the airflow.
I ran into the high velocity of the charged air either bending the fins flat or making them whistle like a blade of grass between one's thumbs.
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This (pictured) is listed as a mercury villager/nissan quest VG33e crank shaft position sensor.
Same part listed for frontiers, infiniti QX4, and pathfinders with single cam VG33 engines.
Here it is in the car.
Nissan painted themselves into a corner concerning terminology when they introduced the VG30 by calling the distributor a "crank angle sensor" because they later had a genuine "crank angle sensor".
I'm amazed I cannot find a single reference to the waveform or at the very least how many teeth there are on the tonewheel as well as gaps in teeth and such.
That is all I need to move forward.
This thread is moving backwards rather than forward so I'll get back to it once I figure it out rather than having to restate the facts with every successive post.
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Sweet........I towed a first generation maxima with a 280zx.
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Ah.........the famous red x intake.
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Looked everywhere........hours of research and no pics of the quest tone wheel.
The big "IF" is the quest flywheel or tone wheel.
It seems the only way I will see one is to take one apart at the junkyard myself.
The reason for the quest and some pathfinders is that they are OBD2 but single cam engines without VVT.
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No money but plenty of time so I tied up some loose ends.
Still waiting for front driveshaft from a S13 to be fitted with 280zx turbo 3n71b yoke and a distributor shaft so I worked on some details like the fan and such and ran it for 1 hour twice a day for the last 3 days mostly idling and it seems pretty ok.
Zero smoke and no dead holes.
I'm surprised since the pistons came out of a 90,000 mile 280zx n/a that was filled with water and rusted the bores.
I hammered them out with a 3 foot pry bar right through the rusty bores and, when I realized I was sold an engine missing a few piston skirts and broken ring lands, I just cleaned them up by soaking each in carb cleaner until the rings unstuck and then I worked them until they were clean without removing the rings and honed the f54 turbo block and slapped them in.........crazy......I couldn't find even the slightest scratch on the ring surfaces after their trip through rusty bores.
I realized I needed a throttle when I got in the car and stupidly stood on the gas pedal as it ran.............DoH!!!.......not much worse than a flaccid pedal.
The stock L-engines use a linkage rather than a cable.
I had both a 240sx and a 1992 stanza throttle body (stanza one is better for fitment to 300zx....it says "nissan" rather than "Jecs" on it) and contemplated fitting them but I have zero cash for piping to the larger diameter throttle body so I used stock 280zx pipe and I then decided to remove the cruise control portion of the throttle cam and cut a little out of it a bit rather than try to fit it to the throttle body itself.
If you use it and the plastic bushing it fits over, it will slide right over the stock L28 throttle linkage in a place where the stock M30 cable only has to make a "S bend" and it doesn't bind at all.
Then you just drill it where it sits (once in proper position) and feed a bolt through it.
If you look close, I left on enough of the round portion to keep the throttle action as linear as possible since the L28 linkage that links the shaft to the throttle body already takes a bit of linearity away and not keeping the round portion would exaggerate it to the point that the car would not be fun to drive.
Feels like stock....but bracket looks cheesy.
It's one of the brackets from the VG30 that came off of the VG30 cut down and put upside down.
That took an unbelievable amount of time in the burning hot sun routing the throttle cable here and there and everywhere to come to that solution but the actual work was only a few minutes.
I did find out that the throttle cable still works smoothly when tied in a loose knot.
More time permitting, I will make it look good.
Engine running in car........sadly there are two harnesses in the bay (m30 one unused) but if I had a driveshaft, this car would be mobile.
S30 fan clears radiator by 5/8 of an inch........that's twice the distance of a stock BMW 635csi.
Yes, I know the mitsubishi top hose doesn't quite fit and I have years of chump ass'd hackery on both the engine and the car to undo.
I guess I should work on getting the M30 harness working with the engine but still need a distributor shaft to give the 1987 300zx turbo ecu the proper crank reference it expects.
Now that I have it fit, I can concentrate on building a stout L28 for it using much wisdom from this site as well as the fs5r30 tranny using austin hoke's adapter. -
Newer?.........the engine management system I want is for a 2002 quest.
Sadly........all of the distributorless ecus nissan makes for V6 expect variable valve timing.
The reason for my wanting this is that the 2002 quest and the other obd2 ecus for quest/villager, and some pathfinders are for a non-variable valve timing engine.
I don't need to bolt a plate to the harmonic balancer because I already have one and a crank angle sensor that way because they come stock on a 1981 280zx turbo.
The wheel has 90 teeth but has two pole pieces in the sensor netting 180 pulses per rotation.
The caveat is that, much like the 280zx turbo distributor optical disc versus the 300zx disc is that cylinder 1 or the 280zx turbo crank angle sensor wheel has the same 60 degree waveform for all cylinders while the 1984 Z31 through the 2002 pathfinder require cylinder 1 to have a wider pulse width (might be a gap).
All I need to do is see if the tone wheel on a quest doesn't have a gap or a wider width tip for cylinder 1 identification.
Sadly........all newer ecus expect a cylinder 1 ID pulse to be different from the other 60 degree pulses.
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14.7 sounds a bit high.
On a stock Z31, 14.7 volts will render the climate control and stereo inop.
At 14.1 and below, they start working again.
If you have a bad ground between body and engine (I assume negative goes to engine ok or car would not crank) you will get high voltages and a host of other problems.......while the engine is running only.
If you can communicate with engine off but not while running, I would try disconnecting the alternator and see if you can communicate with engine running that way.
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What is that??? What engine ran it into oblivion?
NapsZ or Z24.
Worked ok in trucks and pathfinder (kind of) but burned up in the vans.
Just saw one on the road that was mint in west palm beach so it probably belongs to one of the idle rich who have too many houses.
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Speaking of good sounding Z cars.
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It was more wishfull thinking on the flywheel teeth since 120 is 1/3 of 360 which could make sense since a three pole sensor would yield 360 peaks per revolution.........which I hope isn't the case.
Best case scenario is 180 teeth on the a tone wheel meaning I can use the stock 1981 280zx turbo crank angle sensor and a 1982/1983 distributor and the OBD2 ecu would be satisfied.
I haven't been in one yet to look and there is very little information on the net other than some maxima flywheels that have a tone wheel much like jeep but it is a different engine family than the VG30 or VG33 single cam engine.
I troubleshooted many jeeps a week and always find either the cam, crank, or vehicle speed sensor on the 8v circuit (depends on year) to have shorted reference voltage to ground or.........starter ring gear teeth particles have stuck to the sensor.
I don't want to spend the time removing the tranny from a quest just to look but maybe I can find one separated already at the wrecking yard tomorrow.
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Made a standalone version of engine management with the 1981 harness using the crank angle sensor but I still need a turbo distributor shaft to make it right.
That and a driveshaft to make it mobile.
This means that I can at least run the engine at this time and I can stow the entire stand alone system in the trunk as a redundancy kit.
More pics as soon as I make the engine compartment presentable.
I won't be able to afford anything for a couple of weeks but it does run at this time.
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What's holding me up?
Cash...........I have none........at least none to spend on anything other than food lodging and other necessities.
This is why my infiniti M30 with L28et sits needing nothing more than a driveshaft to become mobile.
I lost my job as general manager of a ECU rebuilder and have zero cash to spend.
The saddest part was losing all of the resources I had since we could test any and all function of most any ecu and scope/graph any signal.
About 70% of my business was rebuilding and repairing Jeep and chrysler ecus (same thing) because, while quite advanced, they are made with inferior parts.
If there's any thing I can give to the world from my experiences there it's telling everybody not to buy a Cirrus/Stratus or another chrysler with the 2.5 liter V-6 and that 90% of perceived ECU troubles are not the ecu.........unless it is a jeep/chrysler or mitsubishi ecu and even then it's still near 75%.
I did compare the flexplates from both a 1991 infiniti M30 and the L24e from a first generation maxima and both have 120 teeth.
If the nissan quest has 180 teeth on the ring gear, it's signal should be identical to the distributor or the 1991 280zx turbo crank angle sensor signal.
It it has 120 teeth...............then things will be a bit more complicated and require physical fittment of that sensor to a L engine bellhousing.
What I need to do tomorrow check how many teeth the are on the flexplate of the OBD2 quests as well as count pole pieces on the sensor which will tell me what the waveform will look like.
I wish I had access to the waveforms that the OBD2 ecu expects to see from the crank angle sensor.
I had all that information available to me at my former job.
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Don't the 280zx rely on an oil pressure switch to continue running the fuel pump beyond the crank cycle?
I do agree it's not good for a track car.
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Thanks for the "counting ring gear teeth" information.
I will spend some time counting teeth or at least look it up somewhere to see what can be done.
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Ok........back from the junkyard recon. mission.
The wheel in the distributor has the same slotting as earlier distributors and the same connector so it seems the distributor signal will be identical.......However........
The OBD2 quests do indeed have a crank angle sensor on the bellhousing just behind the front exhaust manifold and covered with a heat shielding material.
This is because the obd2 standards and other EPA regs require a car to go a damn long way with zero maintenance.
Since the distributor relies on a good timing belt, you just cannot meet the regulations concerning mileage traveled with no maintenance and still have good crank reference because of belt slop.
They get around this with the very exact reference from a bellhousing mounted crankshaft position sensor and they also get a degree of redundancy in signalling.
My main reason to try this project is to be able to flash the unit with calibration files simply by plugging into the OBD2 port as well as get bettter control on emissions since I may very well be moving to a state that has tight emissions standards.
Money prevents me from going further with this other than trying to see the orientation the "tone wheel" (probably on the flex plate) and how to get this same signalling out to the ecu on a L28 or earlier VG30 with as little effort as possible.
If I come up with anything, I will add to this thread.
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I know for fact that the front runner Improved Touring guys are getting from 180hp to 208hp (sunbelt) at the crank with none of the mods done to monzter's engine above and they still have to deal with the pressure drop across the venturis as well as the much lower flow rate of the two carbs that are not linked to a common plenum.
AWD conversion (just for conversation's sake)
in Drivetrain
Posted
Take the drivetrain out of a Lexus GS?