HowlerMonkey

Score of a lifetime!!! Make yourself available if they need you.

It's easy to "caulk" with a mig welder and think you just welded something. I use a gas torch to preheat my work sometimes. This does wonders if you're mig welding thick stock. One thing many people screw up is the building's ability to pump enough current to a welder. I always try to stay as close to the main breaker box as possible.......which is necessary because I use a 110 volt 140 amp mig welder.........It's not as big an issue with 220. Before anybody slags the 110 welder, it is a 140amp welder with 100% duty cycle and weighs a ton.......the only one I've ever seen with 100% duty. In 110 welders, it's all about the transformer.

Job is probably still available for a technical support representative since I am now gone which means.............they don't have anybody within the entire company that is ASE certified or even knows the first thing about car.

The gassers were.... 1st.......3.321 : 1 2nd.......2.088 : 1 3rd........1.308 : 1 4th........1.000 : 1 5th.........not listed I have a maxima 5 speed but the haynes manual I have only lists 4 of the ratios so it may be the ratios for a 810 4 speed....which should be a fs5w71a. Lots of bad info. in the haynes for this car which lists 1977 to 1984 years covered.

I had to do it Hetfield style including the "yeah" at the end of most sentences. Great album.......It almost made me switch over from Black Market Baby and the punk scene in DC to metal but the big haired metal chicks I love so much had not yet descended on the metal scene. Henry Rollins used to serve us ice cream back in arlington.

I doubt he needs that since the lobes of the cam are up instead of down when the rotor is pointed at number one...........unless his spark plug wires are not in the right holes.

Most of the time, that kind of tach behavior means you have a body ground issue.........in most every other car......maybe not in yours, though. It doesn't cost anything to connect a pair of jumper cables between a strut bolt and the engine to see if the problem goes away.

LOL at Shift00 making a medical conclusion from a picture. I was actually concussed at the time the pic was taken. I was sore all over but the next day I woke up with my right lower leg tingling and terrible back pain. The trauma caused swelling in my spine that damaged some nerves and I'm lucky I didn't wake up paralyzed from the waist down. The back pain slowly subsided in 3 years of me working out daily and the tingling only subsided after 14 years. Damaged nerves will many times repair over time.........a very long time........long enough that even though I now have what seems like full nerve action in my leg, I will have many more years before I undo the muscle atrophy that resulted from the nerve injury. If you ask me, $50,000 was not near enough. I also suffered a double hernia partially because the owner of the pathfinder I was test driving after service was very short and had things behind the seat meaning I was in an unusual driving position because I'm six five. Customers complain when you even move a mirror so I usually try to not move a seat because we had another technician who crushed a $10,000 briefcase when he moved the power seat back into it. I bent the steering wheel and the brake pedal because I was sitting at an a red light and had time to tense up as I saw the car coming toward the driver's door. Thanks for playing Shift00. I drive this turbocharged maxima all over the area soon to replaced by this M30 with L28et. Yes those are 1984 300zx 4 lug wheels with 215/50s that bolt straight on with no spacers and they don't rub though I should have gone with 225/50s since they won't rub either. I'll be taking it to moroso very soon with a for sale sign on it as it does the rocking horse down the quarter mile. Any west palm beach guys know what happened to the Z car performance shop that used to be part of the nissan dealership on military near southern? I'm out of words........I've used my daily quota.

At this time, I work for nobody but I spent a long time wrenching nissans.......mostly Z cars. My last job killed my soul and I need to recover. That one pictured ended up on it's side during a nissan van demolition derby. Imagine a bunch of technicians who know there is a very large parking lot full of vans that will be going to crusher and you can imagine what kind of stuff went on. If they had bad shocks, they would do wheelies and stoppies.

Sikaflex is good stuff. I used to use the 241 sikaflex at hatteras yacht custom yard and you had to be sure you really wanted whatever you bonded with it was in it's final place because you would surely never get it off. We had a guy bond teak to the top of the transom on a multimillion dollar yacht and he had put them such that the lettering was opposite of what the owner wanted. They had to cut it and re-glass the top of the transom because the owner came in after they pried it off and it took mucho glass with it. Nice build........I covet your rotisserie.

This is one I've always wanted.

Excellent!! I'm glad someone else remembers that album. I sang that song last weekend after teaching a friend the riff because he challenged me that I couldn't sing "real metallica" and then went on to play riffs from the black album.

I haven't seen one since I prepped the last one for the crusher at our dealership (VOB nissan) in bethesda, md in 1994. I snagged about 20 primo captains chairs from these. They were so bad and that nissan bought them back from the customers because they would catch on fire shortly after being parked........not good if it happens in your garage. I did two campaigns on them that essentially replaced most every rubber part in the engine compartment including seals, pumps, and many gaskets and didn't pay jack ♥♥♥♥ under warranty. A year after doing the campaigns, we prepped them for the crusher as nissan made some good offers to get them off the streets. Yeah that's my dorky ass after finding a camera under one of the captains chairs and only half an hour after being broadsided in a pathfinder which eventually netted me a $50,000 settlement.......minus lawyer fees.

Tranny behind the LD28 maxima is a FS5W71b. If you want to sell off stuff you don't want out of that package, try link below. There are lots of very rare and specific parts on that engine and you might be able to fund the rest of your project. Of course there are guys who fit the diesel with a turbo and then put that combination into an early Z car which nets near stock performance and almost 40mpg. Might come in handy if gas goes back up to $4.00 a gallon again. http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/index.php

Cam out of time 180 degrees? It might be pointing at cylinder 1 but I would pull the valve cover and see if the cylinder 1 cam lobes are facing up. If not, do what was suggested above by re-indexing the oil pump shaft.

It's getting difficult to find a muffler that..........muffles. Most companies cater to people who want to mount a rear muffler that makes the car louder than the stock iteration. Amazing job on getting clearance where there is none. Back in the early 80s, I used to run rotaries (RX-2 with bridge ported 13- and one had to run three mufflers to make the car tolerable without killing the power. On a "long primary" system (the collector is at the rear of the car instead of the front) we used two straight through bullet mufflers packed with stainless wool on the primary pipes and a huge honking rear muffler that cost a fortune.......I think it was called a "primaflow" muffler. The price of the primaflow was excessive so on later cars I made a "Y" after a certain distance of collected exhaust and ran two "turbo mufflers" side by side oriented 45 degrees for clearance issues (too tall when standing up). As I get older, I like my cars to make less and less noise. I also haven't had a ticket in 20 years which I attribute to super stealthy exhaust note. You should submit that design to borla and get some cash.

We used to balance plane props with nothing more than a fast strobe and a video camera on a tripod but the new digital cameras might work even better since they net a much clearer picture of each frame. I used to use a strobe type spin balancer (just the strobe and trigger) and mount the strobe trigger to the tailshaft of the tranny and then to the diff. Then all you had to do was have somebody up in the car run it at a certain mph and read which number you saw illuminated by the strobe to find the heavy side. Got the idea from watching Danny Arredondo using the tire spin balancer at Z shop of miami. The problem was finding the speed that worked with the balancer and the fact that a driveshaft shop can balance one infinitely better.

The end result is that you have to change your driving style when comparing most locking type diffs to an open or VLSD diff. Most every locking diff will induce power-on understeer for the basic fact that most locking diffs will fight having both side wheels going a different speed to some extent when power is applied. While testing at any track with a carousel in an r200 equipped car, I've found that the VSLD to have the least power-on understeer but the stock nissan implementation will never carry one through even half a season of Improved Touring racing let alone a higher powered class and many VLSD only last a few laps in classes that don't allow a pumped diff. cooler. I'm sure there are some crazy expensive VLSD out there but I am not aware of them. They just weren't made for long term thrashing. With a VLSD, you can get on the power sooner while a mechanical locking diff. will require you to change your driving style in that you "re-index" your braking/turning/acceleration events to later in the turn to keep the power-on understeer from rearing it's head to the extent it either eats up front tires or hurts your lap times because you encounter understeer as you power out of the corner. This means a change from getting all your braking done in a straight line and powering out to braking deep and putting power down only after you are again going relatively straight. Then you've got the guys who use slip to point the car in while braking late and can get on the power sooner but that technique requires a lot more driver attention and is subject to being hard on rear tires and brakes. I am a lexus tech and lexus uses open diffs. and computerized braking schemes to control yaw and, as said above, will burn up brakes quickly on a road course........but lexus designed the system thinking of the average driver who got in over his head or ran into an unexpected change in road conditions. I'm not sure open diff./electronic controlled braking for yaw control will ever be ironed out for road racing because you need your brakes for..............braking and any braking usage beyond retarding the car's speed is counter productive to brake heat and wear.

I believe the one in the picture has a thermostat like the early rotaries I had in my RX2s. I think if you unscrew that bolt near the fittings, you should find a bypass/thermostat there. Back in the early 80s I had many a discussion on oil versus water temperature on Improved Touring RX-2s with the Kearneys who ran at summit point.

I've swapped a few flanges back and forth on r200s and no troubles. The 280zx turbo has a semi-rectangular flange which I would imagine is stronger than the circular one found on s12 200sx and non-turbo 280zx. Not sure if they are stronger but nissan felt must have done it for a reason. Not sure about the 300zx flange, though.

Quick hijack. Hey daeron......have L28 mounted again in M30 and will have pics soon and writeup on mounts. I used the front sump from a first generation maxima and it clears fine with the engine low enough to have enough hood clearance.

A lot of confusion in some posts above. The engine management system doesn't care that the car has turbo hardware until you run out of injector flow rate. I know......I'm currently running turbo hardware on non-turbo ecu and harness and it's fine under stock boost. First thing to do is have someone crank it while you use a timing light and see if cylinder 1 fires when it is supposed to. If not, you will have to remove the oil pump and index the shaft properly. A timing light is a great diagnostic tool overlooked by many. I also use one to determine where noises come from and to see excessive runout on moving parts. Are you sure the car has fuel pressure? Are the plugs wet? The answers to these two questions will mean very different problems. If you find your fuel pump is not running while the engine is either running or trying to run...........check below. Depending on the model year, there are 3 fuel pump schemes on the N/A cars alone and that's just on cars from 1981 to 1983. Some have one relay, some have two and some have three. I don't have wiring diagram of the 1979 system and I believe they use the e12-80 module which means less ecu integration concerning fuel pump operation. I believe (but not completely sure) that the 1979 system uses both the alternator and oil pressure switch to ensure fuel pump operation. That is where you should start.........if the fuel pump does not continue to run once the car is started. It uses these to determine whether the engine is turning rather than in the turbos and later ecu types which won't energize the fuel pump relay(s) beyond the initial prime until the ecu sees a good crank angle sensor waveform. I don't think the 1979 has a microswitch in the air flow meter to energize the a fuel pump relay like the 1975 to 1978 cars....but it might....don't remember. If the plugs are wet and you have a cylinder head temp sensor (not all zx do), clean the terminals. Another thing (if there is no switch in the air flow meter) is to unplug the air flow meter and throttle switch. The car should idle without these.

Never mind..........got some........seems that the S30 and s130 are the same dimensions with the S30 brackets being easier to work with since they have a lot less bracing. The down side is that they are plenty weak. Moderators........feel free to delete.

I used to repo cars........in Liberty City.

Damn dude........you should sign your stuff.