HowlerMonkey

Doh.........just remeasured a f54 and it is 16 5/8 but the rivet that holds the tab must have caught when I saw 17 earlier. Now as far as mounts go, the S30 and S130 mounts end up with center of the mount even with the block's bolt holes front to back but the first generation maxima mounts are shifted backwards about 1 3/4 which ends up almost the center of gravity of the longblock. The s30/s130 mount rear bolt holes are the same distance from center as the maxima mount points. The rearward shift was necessary to mount the L28 in my M30 but I ended up cutting up some S30 mounts because it was about 2 inches too high with the first generation maxima mounts and the angles did not match the crossmember. There is more at the link below which details the swap.........I might be helpful. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=993408

17 inches. Tell us what car you intend to put it in and we might have more information.

EGR maybe

I was able to check out a 1997 quest with a VG30e single cam engine and it had the post cat 02 sensor. When money permits, I will experiment with this ecu on the L28et.

The reason for the spool gun is that aluminum is too soft to be pushed 10 feet.

Here's one..... If welding aluminum, make sure it isn't magnesium. Here's something helpful.... Clean the clamp that goes to your work. I watch people bouncing the wire off of their work and cussing up a storm all time because of this.

Cool.........I'll save all the cases/housings, valve body, and shafts while looking for the best application for a starting point. These transmissions are stronger than people know as I had a stocker 100,000 mile, 10 year old 3n71b last 1 year behind a bridgeported 13b that I shifted at 8500 rpms many times a day.

All of the gearsets have 3 planets. Now, I am curious. Are there 4n71b with 4 planet gearsets? The output shaft is larger diameter like the 3n71b found in the 280zx turbo rather than the thinner one found in the N/A models but I've heard the first generation maxima iteration is weak compared to the 300zx version but maybe that's down to the number of friction plates and clutch plates.......not sure. As far as mods go, they sound like the mods I did in 1981 to the 3n71b that came in my RX-2 which are along the lines of the B&M shift kit available at the time. I guess they now call them "level 10 mods". Since this is a L4n71b and not a E4n71b, should I be keeping the cases as well? I was wondering if the hydraulic 4n71b is more desirable for a high hp build.

This is an autopsy of the L4n71b from my 1984 maxima with 277,000 miles (50,000 miles after turbocharging). One day out of the blue, the car was reluctant to shift to 2nd gear but it did shift a bit delayed on the way home from work. A few miles later, I was putting down power while turning pretty hard (sticky comp T/As 225/50-15) and lost drive when the inside tire broke loose causing the car to from 1st to 2nd to 3rd in quick succession. This was followed by loss of drive in 3rd and a ringing type grinding noise that lasted for 2 seconds and no more noise........but no 3rd gear either. I drove the last two miles home with 1st and 2nd gear only. The car also had no reverse. Upon disassembly, I found this. Parts are as they are in tranny.....left to right is front to rear. No trouble here from convertor to rear of overdrive unit. There it is...........just behind the drum support that centers the overdrive unit on the front face and the drum that contains the front clutches and front planetary set. I usually don't see this failure on this type of tranny. Look where the "drums" meet and you will see they no longer have "teeth" with which to mesh like the assembly above or the one behind it. Looks like the non-metal thrust washer split and fell out allowing the front drum to rub on the back of the drum support......which would be the back of the front pump if it didn't have an overdrive unit sandwiched between the bellhousing and the rest of the tranny. I placed half of the washer where it belongs but all both halves were in the pan when I opened it up. The added play allowed the drum that contains the front and rear clutches as well as planetaries to not fully mesh the "connecting shell" which is really just another drum that doesn't have a band acting on the outside of it. You can see where the lack of thrust washer allowed the drum to rub the support in the center as well as on that bright spot at the top of the pic. It's usually a planet seizing in one of the planetary gear sets that I find or burning.........and then a planet seizing...........after one is overheated to the point that the non-metal thrust washers compress or break up causing tolerance trouble and possibly low pressure system wide. Different damage and causation in my case than most I've seen but it always seems to be the non-metal thrust washers that start the cascade of failures. Since I found zero wear or damage to any of the gearsets or anywhere else, I fully believe these would last forever if ....... 1. Fluid is replaced any time tranny has gotten hot to restore some sort of film to keep metal to metal contact from happening. 2. Non-metallic thrust washers were replaced with some sort of metal thrust washers that don't melt when tranny does get hot. Now that I think of it, this is the first 4n71b failure I've seen without burning or contamination causing undue wear since only large chunks came off and fell down rather than smaller debris being sent throughout the tranny to grind it to death. Time to go back outside and rescue the innards for future use. I think I might see just how far I can build up a 4n71b using 300zx turbo parts since I now have a bellhousing with which to mount the stronger Z31 box to a L series engine.

Pathfinder FS5R30....Length (bellhousing to tailhousing): 28.50" Shifter Position (bellhousing to center pivot): 27.0" Trans Mount position (bellhousing to center of mount) forgot the number but seems to be about 25.0" to 25.5" It also sports a very cool longshifter that angles backward such that the knob in neutral ends up about 30 inches from bellhousing.

Also check the wiring diagram to see if they share the same 5 volt reference voltage circuit. Even newer obdII cars will throw a code for a tps when the real problem is the map or mass air flow sensor for the very reason that they share the ref. voltage circuit. Very common in jeep 4.0 liters.

Pressure is one thing but it won't combat low pressure that is the result of loose bearing clearances. A higher volume pump can help in that instance but it's best to fix the cause of they symptom (low oil pressure) rather than use a band-aid.

Seat definately fell out. Ferdinand porsche had that happen on the first volkswagen beetle during an endurance test when he was descending a hill and shock cooling caused a seat to fall out. They took a feeler gauge, put it between the seat and the head, hammered the seat in, and then broke off the feeler gauge and drove the car a few thousand miles with no troubles. Is your thermostat sticking open? I'll guess somebody knife edged the throttle body and that's what caused the screw to fall out in the earlier mishap?

The reverse light switch is mentioned in the service manual. And something on the opposite side called the reverse check sleeve.

That would be the computer not seeing either tps or air flow meter.

If you front mount the turbo and get rid of the crossover pipe in the quest to move the engine back, you will also have to run a different plenum as the stock z31 plenum overhangs the crossover pipe. Maybe a pathfinder plenum would work. As far as trannies go, you might try the z32 tranny and leave the engine forward which should put the shifter exactly or a lot closer to where it should be. The FS5r30 when pushed back might be larger than the tunnel.

Dang........the automatic is 4 times the price. I've been running a stock L24e (1984 maxima) oil pump after putting the turbo stuff on it and have done 50,000 miles on an engine that now has 277,000 miles with no trouble.

I've put a l28et into a infiniti M30 in place of the VG30.............and it's much easier to work on. It seems the Leopard/M30 with the VG30 was not well thought out and it's near impossible to reach most anything you work on while the L28 is a piece of cake.

They are very similar cars with the same rear suspension.......except for the R180 that comes in the maxima. That's easily remedied with a R200 using the S12 200sx turbo R200 mount.......bolts right in.

A gl10 rear wheel drive would be cool but nothing was cooler than than driving the air suspension XT turbos because they would raise the car when you hit the 4wd button and there was another button that would raise the car further. So you come up to an intersection all jacked up, and hit two buttons and the car settles down a few inches. You can do that in the Lexus GX470 but you have to be going below about 30mph or it will automatically lower to stock ride height.

No......not wrong.......I've rebuilt both because I worked at a nissan/subaru dealership and specialized in tranny rebuilds. The tranny is a 4EAT which also went into certain mazdas and fords. Regardless of the case and application, the transmission assembly is the same is still called a 4EAT.

Unplug the head temp sensor near the 5th spark plug. You will probably find it corroded and making bad contact. When that happens, you get exactly the symptoms you are describing.

The extra connector is much like the "spout" connector on a ford. It allows the ecu to affect the advance of spark. The module that has two connectors is E12-92 and the single is E12-80. I believe just going to the E12-92 module will retard your spark 8 degrees so the distributor will have to be advanced and possibly loosen the bolts on the bottom of the distributor for more adjustability. Other than needing to advance it, it should run the same but there could be slight differences in the advance curve.

I never knew why manufacturers don't release their baddest cars in a market (US market) that is known for craving performance cars. Renault and Peugeot released lame cars in the united states and let europeans have the kick-ass rally cars. I imagine things would be different had they released them here but I still think they would have had the same longeivity issues..........but........many americans forgive that kind of stuff if they get the performance they crave. Either way....... I never liked the fact that chrysler/mitsubishi cashed in on the "EVO" nomenclature. To me, a real "EVO" is...... Ford RS200 EVO or Ferrari 288 GTO EVO Lancia Delta S4 EVO......which is the car that killed group B rally racing by being so damned fast. I believe chrysler used "evo" moniker with "lancer" which sounds a lot like "lancia evo" much like GM is re-using famous engine designations like "LS1" (originally a 427) or LT1 or LS7....etc.

At Z-shop of miami we used to get cars that were never driven hard which would come in sounding like they had serious bottom end problems. We would take them out and run them hard with high revs and the noise went away. Apparently the very small space between the piston and the head would stack solid with crud at TDC and running them up and slightly beyond redline would liberate said crud. RE: Squish..... I'll bet a lot of big block chevy guys look at the L88 closed chamber heads a lot differently than they did way back in the day when everybody said open chamber was the way to go. There was a good article about at least a decade if not 20 years ago where Jim Feuling (olds aerotek engine builder....1000hp quad4) did some big block chevy heads that could run something like 11 to one compression on 89 octane making like 700hp......Wish I could find it as it had lots of discussion of "squish".