cyrus

All new suspension + alignment. I think is is do to the 17x9" rims on the front. Without power steering the car follows all ruts in the road.

Updates: I have done repeat LM-1 wide band runs to tune with the SAFC-2 and have brought the AFR from 9.1 to 11.5 in a few places. I am shooting for 500 HP at the crank. I notice the car has a more poop at redline as I keep accidentally hitting it in first. In the past it would start to wane due to the richness. The car will launch nicely from 5000 RPM which feel like real scary until you get used to it. I am strugging with one issue though. The car pulls straight and nice until 100 at which I lift and gently apply the brakes. The car has a floating feel (darting) until the speed comes down to 80 or so. Any thought on stability.

I have a manual, so no luck. Best to get the shop wiring manual and trace those wires.

Shesha, I don't want to be rude, but you post needs work. Please articulate your thoughts better for clarity.

bingo

People are curious about me: I am leader of a secret ninja force. I train monkeys that compose our primary force to overthrow the "Man"... uhhh wait uhum: I Design check valves and pumps for a company. We sell to just about everyone, so you probably have used us. I have a patent for one of the worlds smallest check valves (no royalties) under the company. We have a great machine shop where I have made a lot of my 240Z. I do international trade shows. My title is "engineering manager".

There already is a stripped down car available at a (higher price range). The EVO RS had a sticker of 26K stripped exactly the way you said. It sold like nill. Everyone want the standard model 30K or the MR 37K. I tried to sell the wife on it but she like all the bells and whisltes the drive up the price and profit. Also companies need to keep there hiearchy of vehicle. And most importantly due to CAFE if you make a cheap car that sells A LOT it will use up all the gas credits that they would rather use to sell more lucrative vehicles.--TA-DA!

BlueOvalz That is exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you!

It's my name, don't wear it out.

How to remove the mustache bar end bolts? Unscrew, hammer>? They are come down from the interior of the car. I Found out the R230 Flanges are hitting the a-arm. So I want to remove the bolts so I can remove the insulator washer to raise the diff about 3/16". Otherwise I have to drop the suspension to remove the mustach bar.

Back in the realistic road range small battery -30 lbs no spare jack etc. (AAA instead) -50 lbs no radio -10 lbs light wheels/tires -60 lbs No donuts -(insert your fat here) lbs These are the best easy mods.

Sheesh...I have spent so much time on this car that I just found out the "Internet". myspace whats that?...j/k

Open your mind a little and any of these cars will be great Z3 G35 350Z S2000 C5 Vette For the money I would prob by the C5 or 350Z just because the engines are superior, (peppy through out the powerband.)

The brake are Modern Motorsports Xtreme 13" brakes w/ 5 lugs spindles The rims are Cobra R 9x17 and yes they fit under the stock fenders

I am a nay sayer on this one. The engine is HEAVY and the power of a truck 460 Ford is similar to a chevy in line 6. The exhaust port on these engine is so bad it does more than a 90 degree bend, it is small, and Ford in there brillance, decide that in the top of the bend a smog pump injector would be installed. You need aftermarket heads to make this combo rock. Great burn outs but all that for 200 HP does not seem to worth trouble. PS T5 would not hold up at all.

I took it out for a drive for the first time in over a year. With all new rebuilt/modded suspension, cage and sound insulation it sure feels different. Roll out

I think if you are going to spend bucks, better off sell the 300 NA and get a 300ZX TT with a manual trans to begin with, then if you wan to mod it you will already have a better differential, axles, brakes, clutch setup, resale value, etc... A hard lesson but one of the best. Good luck

I think this falls under "If you have to ask then..."

I got my 240z corner lights to flash but not with the turn signal lever, any thoughts? I suspect the combination switch any other basic ones?

Under a 1972 240z dash where do wires 20-27 go? I know three of them go to the horn 2 go to the door switch Anyone got info.

Something no one is hitting on it the rim dia. For Rx-7 the camber specs are; 16" Rims 1.5 deg 17" Rims 0.9 deg 18" Rims 0.6 deg For me 3 degrees sound ridiculous for 17's and just fine for 15's I think rim dia is the most important qualifier here.

I could be wrong but if I throw the spacers away I do not think it would fit.

Has anyone been able to use a Suspension Techniques bar with Q45 axles? I do not see any room. Any links or pics?

I need initial alignment setting for a 406RWHP 240Z w/ Tires (F and R) 245/40/17 Kumho Esta 710 tires (R-DOT Compound) Rims 17x 9 Springs 200F 225R Front Camber plates+ MM Rear A-arms+ Illumas+ Cage+Coilovers I have been reading posts (searching) that are recommending 3 deg Front and 2.5 deg Rear, but with my tires I feel this is too much as because of the 17's and the ultra stiff side wall. Since I will drive this car to events I want a small amount of Front toe in to make the car stable. As for the rear I am not sure. I need to know> Front camber Rear camber Front Toe Rear Toe Front Caster (as If the GC plates allowed any...) Any ride height recommendations This is my base line alignment that will hopefully be a comprimise (I know I know) for Street, Track and Drag. Thanks