Zfan1

The long tubes that I got in the group buy were a bit of a pain in the ass to get the steering set up but after that we were ok. I am running a 4L80E automatic so that may have had some bearing on the outcome. Mine are not noisy, running dual 3" to a single Magnaflow muffler that has 3" dual in and out.

A drive line shop can build you one from scratch

Got a pair of Hooker Super Comp long tubes for the Hooker/Scarab type set up. They are used, ceramic coated 1 5/8" X2 1/2" for 200.00. Ran them for several yrs until I went over to the darkside (LS2).

What shock/strut are you running?

I don't make enough power to put the 28" tires to good use...lol Your running a stock LS2 correct? Put a cam, valve springs and push rods in her and go fly! My LS2 is cam only and still thru the 4L80E made only 418 to the wheels but runs 6.70's consistently. I run a 255/60-15 Mickey Thompson Drag Radial, going to switch to a 275/50-15, which is a 26" tire.

Are those ZG flares on the back of your Z?

I always preferred running the 26" drag radials, got my best 60' ft's with them. I went to The Texas Motorplex Friday night and ran 6.71 at 104 in the 1/8th and 10.66 at 125 in the 1/4 on motor only. Never got the opportunity to open the bottle, Those little LS2's are the bomb!!!

Well I fixed the problem by rebuilding my other R200LSD and swapping rear ends out. Went to the track this past weekend and now it's howling again, guess it did not like the abuse. The good news is my cam only LS2/4L80E combo went a best of 6.71 at 104.50, worse pass was a 6.81 at 103. Still have some tuning to finish but for a stock motor with cam and valve springs that's hauling, love the LS platform! I also scaled the car, 2860 lbs with me in it, I was surprised what the little 240Z weighs.

How much sauce/nitrous are you throwing at it? I am hitting mine with 150, stock bottom end.

Let me know when you two make it to the track, I am in Allen but drive my Turd everywhere, a 140 mile round trip is nothing for some good racing.

I am running the Bosch 044 pump with a Wix Corvette regulator/filter/return style set up.

Well I checked the pinion angle and it was 6.40 degree's...yikes. Got it to 2.70 degree's and still howls and has an ever so slight vibration. No howling in the diff with old set up as I stated earlier but I am guessing it is loading at a different angle so like a member mentioned earlier it could be a bearing or gear issue. I have a spare R200LSD rear diff. so I will put it on the bench and build it with the clutches I picked up in another group buy some time ago. I am also going to take the driveshaft back to Driveshaft King and have them recheck the high speed balance and u-joints while they are at it. I hate that howl enough to not drive the damn car, pardon my French!

I run a 255/60-15 Mickey Thompson drag radial, they work great! I raced that Talon before with my old carbed 385 stroker on a 175 shot and drug him pretty good (Diplomacy) in Grand Prarie, so I guess we are even now that I think about it.

I think the John's Cars LS swap kit lowers the motor from my previous set up (Scarab) and this may just be the culprit. I do not know the exact difference between the two but I will find out tomorrow when I take it to my friends shop and check the driveshaft angles. If it's an inch or two lower that would be huge seeing that the driveshaft is so short. It could change the angle by several degree's.

I remember that night, that was a friend of mine who owns that Talon, it runs 9.20's in the 1/4. I diidn't have the bottle on the new LS set up so he got me, now that I am hitting it with a little shot of juice I want a rematch...lol

So true, the bearing will/can take a beating.

I would drive my Z a whole lot more than I do but I have yet to get the a/c hooked up and I get S-tty gas mileage. Damn 4L80E automatic transmission coupled with the cost of 93 octane gas sucks, I get probably 15-17 mpg but the auto with shift kit and big stall leaves good!

I just purchased a painless block and harness and rewired the car, pretty scary what I found....yikes. I also just used a PSI wiring harness for my LS set up, not cheap but worth it in my opinion.

Going to pick up a digtial angle finder today and find out how many degree's of angle I am looking at and make adjustments. I will also be pulling the driveshaft and have it rebalanced at high speed as it has developed a little bit of vibration. Luckily if there is a serious rear diff. problem I happen to have a spare R200LSD in the garage plus a new set of clutches.

I am trying to find out why the rear diff. is howling on my swapped Broken Kitty L76/4L80E swap. I didn't have any noise at all with my scarab mounted 385 scb/700r4. I know the drive shaft sits at more of an angle than before and is now shorter than before after swapped. The transmission shaft sits lower than before thus causing more of an angle plus the front u-joint is a Spicer type large GM 3150. The rear u-joint is a Datsun/Nissan, much smaller, not sure of actual size. Has anyone done an auto swap with there LS conversion that had howling issues? I have drained and filled the R200LSD with new fluid and Limited slip additive, this did not help at all. My concern is that the u-joints being different sizes may play a role plus the rear diff. sitting so much higher than the transmission is causing too much pinion angle.

I see, how do your 60. ft's compare. I am running a 27" drag radial with 3.70 rear gears and get 1.55 on motor and 1.40 on some juice. I got a best of 6.83 at 101 on motor in 90 degree weather. Cannot wait for fall/winter weather, maybe 6.70's on motor.

You put a 275/60-15 in the back, how did they fit? I run a 255/60-15 and it is tight.

Just watched the video as I have some folks running out there as well, looked good!

Manual transmissions are much harder on parts too.

I have run many 9 second passes on an IRS set up. Running a small tire to boot, 255/60-15. I am running an auto trans which helps.