PanzerAce

Hmmm...don't think a 2mm HG will solve that problem

That's one of the reasons I haven't built the Imbel kit that I've got sitting on my floor. Same with the Bulgie -74S I've got. Niether of them would be much fun converted to CA standards, so I'm leaving them alone till I can shoot them the way they were meant to be. On the other hand, that gives me plenty of time with my K-31

The first one linked just doesn't do it for me. The second, orange one, on the other hand, I would buy in a heartbeat. It's a far better idea of a retromodern car. You can tell *exactly* what it's inspired by, but it's also obviously very different. The first car just looks like someone slammed the nose of a GTR onto a Z rear

See my second point plus, I've got a bunch of 30s, and no tens for my AR, so there's very little incentive to go with a BB. I'll probably do it eventually, but for now, just not worth spending the money on it.

The MMG is one of the reasons my AR hasn't seen the light of day in better than a year. Well, that and the cost of ammo

I tell it like it is

one is faded blue with rust sprinkles. The other is black primer/white primer/gray primer

So I'm thinking it's from my rear end just because of when it happens, but when I'm on the throttle, there's a squeeking/grinding noise (if that makes any sense) that I think is coming from my rear end. It also isn't happening consistently, which isn't making figuring it out any easier.... Assuming (dangerous, I know) that it is coming from the rear end, is this indicative of simply a low oil level in the diff case, or is it some far worse problem? Edit: what bolt size are the plugs on the diff anyway?

He said in another thread that it's on hold, and that it'll be going into a 810 or similar, since he's got the parts for a ~3.4-3.6L M104 build for the same cost as a L28et (which, btw, I hate him for, since I've been thinking about that)

And this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150479

now there's a weird intake......

So can you tell if it is mechanically or electrically actuated?

Thanks. I finally found a place that sells the blanks, and that seems to match up with the cost of that + machining out the openings for the carbs. Not really worth selling it then, incase I ever go back to the ITG

Nobody knows?

Go talk to a history major some time if you want poor It's weird having graduated and all my buddies going back to school. Now I just have to find myself a real full time job so that I can afford to start *really* messing with my Zs

Well, after my recent carb re-tune, my wallet sure *feels* like it's getting better MPG, but I guess the real test will be when I drive out to visit my folks in a few weeks. My best ever on that trip (~130-150 miles, depending on the route) was 20mpg. My gut is saying I might be able to do 23ish this next one...

Maybe not on SUs, but he said he's switching to triple mikuni 44. *my* experience with my cam/ carb setup (rebello 63D + triple mikuni 44s), is that the only problem starting is filling the fuel bowls (still running the mech fuel pump). Personally, I think it'll be fine. Yes, you'll lose at the bottom end, but hey, that just gives you an excuse to let the engine scream some more Though you are going to have to tune your carbs *really* well, since as Mag pointed out, it's going to lope, alot. Also, the cam + carb setup means that your idle is going to change a fair bit depending just on the ambient air temp and the engine temp. And Monzter, when did 10:1CR become low?

There's atleast one guy running a holset VGT on an eclipse I think it was, last report I saw was at 1k miles into the install, hard driving, plenty off boost, and the vanes were fine, and the mechanism still worked perfectly. The issue might be more with the ability to move rather than the vanes themselves *shrugs*

Yah, sorry, only Heinlein fans would have gotten it

Yah, but you can't build those for 90 bucks plus some hacksaw time and JM, it's 7.62x54R, a far more manly cartridge than x39 speaking of x39 though, I need another case or two of it, along with some 5.45....

Ah, ok, I think I grok it now.

why a fast solenoid? Wouldn't that only give you two options? Open and closed? The advantage of the VGT is that you can have it open *as* boost comes on. Personally, I'm going to hook it up to a mechanical WG actuator that will start moving the plate/vanes at ~10psi manifold pressure.

I.....have no idea, to be honest. The P/Ns that they list don't match up with other HE351VEs that I've seen, and the exhaust inlet bolt measures are off as well. That is a VE turbo, but I just don't know what size...One possibility is that it's off of the earlier...5.9? liter diesels instead of the newer 6.7s, but I don't know for sure if they had VGTs on those....wierd, now I'm going to have to do more digging. Though, TBH, at that price, it almost doesn't matter what it came off of. Now to see if it stays low....(probably not, but oh well)

I saw your thread gollum, and while it's an interesting idea, something about it just doesn't click for me. I like small engines and all...but I don't know, your idea just doesn't work for me *shrugs*. IIRC, the reason that these motorcycle V8s tend to be narrow angle is that they are designed to fit in narrow chassis cars that don't have the room to allow for a full 90 degree bank.

See, the real reason they put the volvo badge on the front is that it makes the car invulnerable. The walls know they are going to lose to a volvo, so they jump out of the way