PanzerAce

[deleted]

try double checking where the article was published

Any publicity is good publicity....

Probably what the PO used then. I went to pull the housing off, and the gasket decided to weld part of itself to the housing and the other, smaller bit to the head. Damn thing would come off in chunks from the housing, so I just started scraping the damn thing off bit by bit. New gasket and housing are in, took it for a little tooling around, looks good so far, but tomorrow is going to be the real, full temp test.

or straight from Kameri *shrugs*

Damn, that's way worse than my issue. Only happens to me for at most 5 minutes after a hard drive in hot weather.

I've got some .txt files for plans/stuff needing work, and an excel file with gas mileage/service performed on the car.

I to am unsure of this concept. And I keep seeing people discuss temperatures with only two digits, are you guys all on Celsius now?

I'm looking for a car that I can use while I'm working/getting work done on the Z. Requirements: -Pass smog if it has too (for those outside of California, that means it has to be able to pass if it's post 1975) -No *major* rust. If the trailing edges of the doors, or the trunk lips are starting to rust, rust spots on the hood, trim, etc, that's fine. If I can put my foot through the floor, or the frame has cancer, that's not so fine (basically, if it just looks bad, that's fine. If it could be dangerous, that's bad). -Drivable. The Z is my project car, I just need this thing to run period (exceptions below). Ideally, I'd like another Z, a 510, or a 70's-90's Japanese pickup/SUV. If it's a 510 or Z, I don't mind if it doesn't run for whatever reason. I don't care if the paint is a uniform color (rattle cans can fix that), I don't care about how fancy the wheels are, I just need something to get me around in case the Z goes down for any reason. Also, I'm trying to avoid spending mega $$$ on it. In short: Have a car/pickup/SUV you don't want anymore? Let me know, and I'll probably be willing to take it off your hands. What I'll pay obviously depends on the condition of the car/what it is. PM me here, email me at panzerace@gmail.com or contact me on aim: AsYetInsane Thanks in advance guys

Same here. Who knows, maybe if someone ever starts building aluminum L series engines (*crosses fingers*), they can build a version for RB heads.....

I would be interested in one for my L powered Z, but it looks like it'd go right where I have my AMSOIL dual filter setup mounted. Any chance of getting a closer shot at it, so that I can see how far down the wheel well it goes?

Dunno, I've never been a V8 guy till this project started bouncing around, and won't be for awhile till I have the money to pour into it :/

Thread revival time, but it's on topic. Now that the weather has hit 100+ ambients, I'm starting to have the same fuel smell with my triple 44s. Is there a good off the shelf heat shield for a triple mikuni setup? Preferably one that attaches b/w the air horns and the carbs, rather than the carbs and the intake? (like so: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/ct/pd1276448/JDM__L6_CUSTOM_TRIPLE_CARB_HEAT_SHIELD_ but IIRC, someone on here had some bad experiences with that specific company). As for the cooling bodies on the bottom of the carbs, is there a pressure limit on them, or can I just re-route my fuel return line into the carbs and then back to the tank? (and presumably the carbs are designed to be run inline with each other?).

Got a new one, seems like a straight forward job that shouldn't take very long at all. Except that the FSM says "When installing, apply adhesive to both sides of the packing for prevention of water leakage." Um, what? What is the packing, and what adhesive am I supposed to use? Anyone know if this is necessary or not?

I'd be interested in reading the step by step guide. I probably wouldn't convert, but I'd read about how to do it anyways.

I was looking over at darton, they have....4.4 something sleeves that would get 380.something ci on the stock stroke. I just need to find out if they'll fit a dart alumi block.... big cam....ITBs..... This isn't even for a Z swap, but I'll probably pm you in a few months when I really get started on it for some more info

Please don't tell me these kinds of things

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Fluoridation, be sure. Realistically, it's probably exactly like they say: other than rust, there really doesn't seem to be a consistent problem area with old Z cars, so you can't really prep for all of them.

I'm going to take a leap here and say that nobody knows, since AFAIK it hasn't been done before. Turbo builds are fairly well known, wild NA builds are as well, but big nitrous shots really aren't that common on the L series.

aero though is were the Zs lose out to modern cars.

Cool. You basically sold me on this concept for my other project And any idea why the bikers think this robs power? Or is it one of those internet legends that aren't necessarily true, but everyone believes it anyways?

So (after reading, finally), any idea what the longevity of the SJ is going to be? It seems to my (completely thermodynamically uneducated mind) that this setup would seize up within a couple thousand miles, since I'm not seeing any way to cool it or anything. Also, you probably already tried this, but would it be possible to control the opening of the SJ like an internal wastegate? ie: as boost builds, it slowly opens up for the second scroll? This thread gives my ideas for a non Z V8TT project I'd like to do sometime

So......methinks I need to start calling around to find a LD28 block

What rear end are you running? Those numbers are good, but TBH I'd expect a little better from a diesel. I'm still tossing around a ZD30DDT swap in my head....