Jump to content
HybridZ

PanzerAce

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    742

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by PanzerAce

  1. PanzerAce
    Looks like the ether didn't lose it or get overloaded Thanks for the pictures (and if enough people want them, I'll rehost them (and if it's ok with Tony))
  2. PanzerAce
    Is there room for one with an RB in there? I know mine is decently snug just with the L series, I'd hate to try and do it with a manifold over there as well...
  3. PanzerAce
    I was under the impression that there was not currently a 'drop in' projector setup. Has this changed?
  4. PanzerAce
    cool. Do you have any pictures available of the other part of the tank?
  5. PanzerAce
    I'm pretty sure it'll accept anything up to 40MB. I know I've sent some truly massive LD28 diagrams before...
  6. PanzerAce
    Oil pump: Turbo Oil weight: AMSOIL 10W-40 Synthetic or Natural: Synthetic Oil Pressure at Idle when cold: 45 Oil Pressure at Idle when hot: 10 Highest oil pressure seen when cold (max RPM): 55-60 (2000rpm. I don't go above 2500rpm even till I see my oil pressure drop to it's hot idle) Highest oil pressure seen when hot (max RPM): 60 (4500rpm. Never in gear long enough any higher to get a steady read on the pressure) No turbo
  7. PanzerAce
    The FSM says I need a 6012 headlight for the Z. But every headlight company I've checked has the H6024 instead as the headlight for the Z. What (if anything) is the difference between the two? On a semi related note, what's the max wattage recommended to put through the stock '73 headlight wiring? I'm not really looking to install relays right now (that's down the road for when I have more time), but am interested in more light...
  8. PanzerAce
    I'll take a copy while you're sending one to tony: panzerace @ gmail.com
  9. PanzerAce
    Well, half the reason is likely because we had way more R-3350s lying around then we would ever need. Also, it was a well known engine, easy(ish)(by airplane standards) to maintain, and produced more than enough power for the A-1.
  10. PanzerAce
    Never even heard of them. Any chance for a link for me to read up on them?
  11. PanzerAce
    Wez, I just realized that I first saw this car in your post on OT (Same name for me over there). Can't wait for the next update man.
  12. PanzerAce

    It Works!

    PanzerAce replied to X64v's topic in Non Tech Board

    So......any chance of a write up on this for those of us that are stuck in the early 70's with our electronics?
  13. PanzerAce
    Any chance you'll make the files available to get the adapters made up for this when you're done? This seems like it could be a fun little swap, especially since I've seen a bunch of 928s in yards...
  14. PanzerAce
    I almost got a MkIII supra when I was looking for a first car, but then I started finding out about CA smog laws, and realized that even though a nice Z would be a fair bit more money, I'd be happier with it in the long run.
  15. PanzerAce
    There's hope for those guys yet it looks like
  16. PanzerAce
    I don't think there are any relays in the 280 There sure aren't in the 240s... One possibility is that the problem is in the switch itself. If he has something to check for power, there are a couple of things on the steering column that he can check as well.
  17. PanzerAce
    Fuel level isn't the same as fuel pressure. Have you tried any adjustments at all to the mix screws?
  18. PanzerAce
    I'll get pictures tomorrow. Half the problem is that I never wake up early enough to get this done before work (I work afternoons-nights), and I'm not going to do this at night with insufficient lighting...
  19. PanzerAce
    As clarification for where this solder material is (if it changes your views), it's the connections right on the base of the stalk, next to the running lights wires as well. To be honest, since the cover for the switch is right there, I'm leaning towards just scraping the damn stuff off, and taking a straight razor to it to make sure I've gotten it all. No heat involved, and while it'll probably take longer than anything else, it's a more sure method...
  20. PanzerAce
    Considering it's looking like I'm going to have to do this inside the driver's footwell, probably not
  21. PanzerAce
    This. My buddy that retuned mine the first time did the entire thing in about 10 minutes, including my 5 minute test drive, and then resetting the idle about 100rpm higher than he had first set it for a smoother idle. Unless you've ever listened at the end of the hose, it might sound hard, but it's *really* easy to tell once you know the sound. Also, make sure all your valve lashes are the same before you start, since that'll mess it up otherwise.
  22. PanzerAce
    I think I'll do the clean solder trick then, considering I had to get a new iron anyway (couldn't find the old one, probably left it at my parent's house when I moved out...)
  23. PanzerAce
    Redoing some stuff on the Z that PO's and shops got wrong over the years But that includes removing a bunch of old solder material from the light/wiper stalk wiring. I'm pretty comfortable with soldering stuff together, but what's the easiest way to *remove* all the old stuff first?
  24. PanzerAce
    Actually, the people that I've talked to that had diesel maximas thought that the engine was fine, just the car as a whole wasn't that great compared to other offerings at the time *shrugs*. Plus, remember that unlike most of us Z guys, people that bought maximas probably never really wound the motors up, so the torque of each engine and how it produced it was probably more important than the hp.
  25. PanzerAce
    Considering the guy I go to locally with all the weird problems I have with the Z made his living on fixing MBs, and Zs was a side hobby, I'd say it's all good. Plus, if you don't do the M104, I'll have to do it first, and I'd rather not trod *completely* unbroken ground with that
×
×
  • Create New...