letitsnow

Sounds pretty good! I just fired my car up a few weeks ago, just about ready for the maiden voyage, even if it is sans turbo for the moment.

You can make the handling real funny if you don't get things quite right, in short, the position and length of everything has some effect. I believe there is a trial version of this program. http://performancetrends.com/SuspAnzr.htm If you're going to do something as drastic as this, you might want to pick up a copy of Racecar Vehicle Dynamics.

Just to clarify, my example of a header for an L series was N/A. I couldn't find one with a turbo header on youtube in a hurry. I think the sound would be very similar though, the turbo shouldn't really change the sound much, just muffle it some.

After thinking about it a bit, I think the exhaust sound you're looking for has more to do with the manifold/header than the post turbo exhaust. Going on your subaru reference earlier, here is a video that compares equal length headers to stock manifolds on an sti. Also, if you compare the lengths of runners in a stock turbo manifold, you'll see that some runners are nearly 10" longer than others. Those exhaust pulses take longer to get out and don't quite maintain the even spacing of pulses that gives the smooth sound you're looking for. Compare something with a header to something with a stock turbo manifold. header manifold

My thoughts exactly, if I had to choose between the two I'd probably pick the AZC arms. The construction of the ttt arms looks a bit better, but the design scares me. No triangulation and a piece of flat plate in bending. If I was building something, it'd be similar to the AZC arms but made with larger OD tubing(~.083 wall 1.25" 4130, minimum) and maybe some gusseting.

My firebird was deemed a total loss from similar damage(everything but the rear quarter), they wrote me a check for value of the car - deductible -'buyback'(about $1800 all said and done) and told me that there would be no salvage title involved because it's too old to bother. They basically paid me to repaint the car and put a bigger engine in. It might be different in a different state though.

With a 'speed density'(MAP) efi system, that's a big no, with a MAF efi system, it's a kinda sorta. The speed density/MAP systems use manifold pressure/vacuum to guess at the airflow through the engine, so if you increase overall flow, the manifold pressure won't change, and it doesn't realize it and doesn't inject the correct amount of fuel. A MAF(mass air flow) system measures the actual flow through the engine, so it CAN compensate for SMALL changes. If you change to a slightly bigger cam or put headers on or change the intake, it will notice and inject more fuel to compensate for more air, up to a limit. You can't take an ecm originally designed to run a stock 305 and put it on a fire breathing 383, it won't like you. Even if it will compensate for your mods, there is still be power to be had with some good tuning. I believe the 3rd gen MAF can read a maximum of 255 grams/sec, which is roughly 300-350 hp if I remember correctly.

The engine stuff on a TPI 3rd gen f body is a separate wiring harness, I believe it's the same for a TBI..

Damn, I wish I knew about them when I replaced some valves in an n47 that I ended up not using, 4 intake valves were ~$70 from msa.

I did some searching on 88hybrid, this is supposed to be the engine in that car.

As long as you're not yeilding the 6061, 7075 isn't really necessary. They both have the same modulus of elasticity, so they should compress the same amount.

THAT is a vg30!?!?!

According to a quick google search, co2 should cool ~%50 better than n2o.

If I were to do it, I'd use c02, I can get a c02 bottle filled for ~12$, nitrous is more like 60$.

I know, however, it was doing the same thing before I burned out d19. I was using the 5v to activate the pwm circuit and accidentally touched it to +12v. It should be alright on the stim with a fairly clean input, in the car with the noisy alternator might be different. I'm going to see if I can find a replacement tomorrow.

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1045/dsc00090kj.jpg http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/7246/dsc00091l.jpg 4.0mp is the best I can do for now, all I have is the camcorder around, I could do some hi def video though . I know that d19 is missing, I burnt it out poking around. It's not important to the injector circuit anyhow. Some of the transistors look like they might be bridged, but none of the. The PWM circuit seems to be alright, I just think the drivers are failing. I'm going to try and track something similar down tomorrow. The first guy could have injured them running low z injectors. If you want, PM me your number and when is a good time to call tomorrow.

Weird, my megatune says it's set for 6cyl/6injectors, rev limits are at 16k/25k so I know that they're out of the way.

Yup, trying to use on board PWM. I checked all the transistors today, they seem to be working correctly. I think the drivers are bad.

No problem, I knew it wasn't working properly when I bought it.

You eventually learn something when you take circuit analysis twice. The PWM circuit has me a bit confused, all I can think of is that one of the transistors is bad. The room with the o scopes is being used almost all day today and I have 3 hours before my next class.

If I pinch the pressure side with my fingers, the pump howls.

Yes, the resonant frequency(of the exhaust) won't change with the carbs, that doesn't mean the engine won't perform differently though.

2 squirts simultaneous, I'll do a datalog tomorrow, but the PW was about 2-2.5ms and the current limit is 30%. It's DEFINITELY a hardware issue on this board, using the exact same msq on my(good) MS1 all is well. When they get hot, the car stumbles and breaks up. This is my msq. running l28 letitsnow.zip

I think it was the nylon washer, I unbolted it and lifted it right off the heatsink and it worked fine, before the IG led on the stim was always on dimly. I replaced it with a nylon screw from one of the other components.

I recently bought a non working MS1 v3.0, I got most of it working, however, the injector drivers overheat after 30 sec of my car running. I have low z injectors, so I'm assuming the PWM circuit is not working correctly. Both drivers overheat at the same time. It doesn't happen on the stim, and nothing else appears to get hot. The current limit circuit is installed along with the active flyback circuit. This is the schematic for the injector circuit, I've checked the resistor values and they appear to be correct, I also checked for bridged pins on the tiny transistors, no dice. The tip125's are insulated correctly as well, could they be bad? I have some tip120's here, could I try them as a replacement? Could the drivers themselves be bad? Everything has heatsink compound.