letitsnow

Sweet! That's an accomplishment for never riding that bike and being(I assume) rusty, I need to replace the piston I melted in my 125 so I can go riding again.

Wow, That combustion chamber looks just like the ones on my Trickflow sbc heads. The ports really resemble some pictures of AFRs that I've seen. Did you remove the valve seats before welding? That head is beautiful. Maybe someday.....

Summit sells a universal NX efi wet shot kit for $400, PN nex-ml2000. You could use the stock throttle position switch to trigger a relay for the solenoids. Everything could probably be setup and working for well under $700.

and

I must have been trying to do 3 things at once when I typed that. I divided too early. The very first equation I gave(sqrt(2*r1^2)=r2) gives 56.5 for r1=40, 56^2=3136, 3136/2=1568, then I switched to 57mm to round more properly. I multiplied by 2 twice for the 40mm equation. 40mm: (2*M*20^2)/2= M*20^2=M*400 57mm: (M*28.5^2)/2=M*812.25/2=M*406.125 Interestingly enough 56mm: (M*28^2)/2=(M*784)/2=M*392 The differences between twins and singles from an inertia standpoint are so close that if you can get a slightly higher flowing (per area, requiring a slightly smaller wheel to flow the same) single, then it would spool much faster than twins, however, if you're stuck with an old tech compressor wheel for the single or newer tech for the twins, the twins would easily win. It seems like whenever I try to do something math related on this site I mess it up somehow, probably because I'm on here way too late at night.

The 5.3 I helped my dad pull out of a 2005 chevy truck had pink coolant.

Yes, but the math I showed above should explain that a properly sized single will spool at the same rate or even slightly faster than equivalent twins. I would expect that packaging was a bigger concern for the 300zxTT, imagine that engine bay with more hotside piping that merged into one pipe and a slightly larger turbo(that flows an equivalent amount as the twins) stuck somewhere. It would be a nightmare.

I meant parallel twins....

Here is some math to try and validate what I said above, any integrals could be ignored if we assume that the bigger wheel is a scaled up version of the smaller ones(they have the same basic shape). It's not optimal, but it should be close enough to compare without hours of measuring and calculation. If we assume flow is directly proportional to area, twin 40mm turbos are equivalent to a single 57mm turbo(given by sqrt(2*r1^2)=r2). Moment of inertia is given by I=(m*r^2)/2 for a thick rod about it's axis, that's not a compressor wheel but it is a scalar multiple of what the formula for a compressor wheel would be, so 40mm: I(total)=(m*800*2)/2=m*800 57mm: I = (m*1568)/2 = m*784 I would certainly bet that 2 40mm wheels would weigh more than a single 57mm wheel. Twins also have twice the bearing drag. If I've made any errors, feel free to correct me. There are some reasons to go twins, but spool time shouldn't really be one.

They're kinda pricey, not horrible, but a decent chunk of cash. http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=168_116&products_id=1260518526

I don't believe that a wheel that flows twice as much would weigh twice as much, after all, we should be talking about flow, not size. Also, I think you need a few more integrals, the weight changes as radius increases across the wheel. I believe this could make a significant change.

I'll comment on this, volume is what makes horsepower, boost pressure is irrelevant. You can have 2 engines both flowing the same total volume of air, one has a ported head and a big cam, the other is totally stock. They both make the same horsepower, engine 1 doing it at 12psi and engine 2 at 25psi of intake pressure. The only time boost pressure is relevant is when it is the only thing being changed.

I figured I should report that dropping resistors appear to have fixed my issue as well.

You can remove the stock fuel injection harness complete in about an hour without changing any of the other wiring in the car. Having the carputer do things like lights and heat will end up being a big mess, things like that arn't exactly plug and play, you would probably have to design and build your own hardware interface AND write a program to control it. The relay board could make things a little easier if you're bad a wiring, but for nearly $90 I'd(and am actually about to) buy a smallish fuse block and a few relays. If you do decide to go with the relay board DO NOT buy the harness you have listed, it's meant for installs without the relay board, buy the one with a connector on each end. The MS PWM for low impedance injectors has been know to create a lot of electrical noise which can make the car run poorly, that is why he is suggesting the add on board. You could also order some 25W 7.5-10ohm resistors from digikey.com or mouser.com for $2.50-$3.50 each. I think the stim is a good thing to have just in case you make a dumb move and the car stops working(it happens to all of us), you can eliminate the MS as a culprit real quick. The kit is easy to solder together too.

power(wattage) = volts x amps You have 12 volts and amps are defined as volts / resistance 12/1000=.012 amps 12 x .012 = .144 watts A 1/8(.125) watt resistor is too small, so we use a 1/4(.25) watt one. Anything larger is overkill and unnecessary.

I'm on my schools Baja team, I'd like to be part of the FSAE team when I transfer to a 4 year school. It's been a lot of work starting from nothing a few months ago, but we just got the chassis back from the cnc notcher/bender. Anybody here on their schools baja team? What competition are you going to? Maybe this would be better in its own thread.

Damn, I'm pretty good at calc, but I have an irrational hatred for diff eq, very little of it because of the math.

Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment or skills to do aluminum, I was thinking about making it from steel and having it powdercoated.

As long as the fuel pressure is steady it shouldn't be any different to tune than any other pump.

Pretty much, I think that someone who isn't in on the joke might think mine(discarded member) means I've done something wrong, which I don't think I have and I don't want them to.

That's pretty good. If mine changed, even back to normal, it wouldn't be a bad thing...

That makes pretty good sense now. I'll try making it out of cardboard when I get some time. What do you think about just cutting off the dead corner and putting a triangular plate over the resulting hole?

Buying something pre-made for it would ruin the fun:razz:, and it would significantly increase the price of this super low budget project. When you search for "plenum" at TGO, there are way more results for aftermarket intakes than converted single planes. I'm having a hard time with the shape you're describing. What I've got is a diamond shaped floor(when it's bolted to the manifold), trapezoidal sides, and a square front/back, and a roof that is the same shape as the floor but smaller. Do I have it upside down?

I'm interested in converting one of my smallblock cars to EFI, however there seems to be a lack of inexpensive manifolds that will feed a 400-450hp v8. After some searching around on the web I found this.(done by anesthes on thirdgen.org, to give proper credit) Everything I've read has said that there is not nearly as much torque loss with an EFI single plane than a carb'd single plane(due to fuel not falling out of suspension at low velocities) and that distribution is very good compared to intakes like the LT1 and TPI. I did some more reading and learned that he didn't use a plenum because of the blower, but that an N/A engine liked a plenum roughly 50% of the engine volume. I've also heard that elbows can cause unequal distribution at high velocities, biased toward the back of the elbow. I found this conversion that was done with some basic tools and employed a plenum, however I bet a box plenum isn't ideal. It's kind of sloppy, but not bad for hand tools. (done by Bjorn on TGO as well) I bought a used single plane intake off craigslist for $20. I have access to a machine shop and welder, so fabrication shouldn't be an issue. I'm curious about designing a relatively simple to build(welded together from mostly flat pieces would be good), that uses a stock LT1 TB and bolts to a squarebore holley intake manifold. Is the box a sound design when used like this? I'd like to angle and extend it towards the drives side so the TB inlet is almost above the power steering pump.

That's not wd-40, it's probably ether. I don't think wd would burn fast enough to do that.