letitsnow

I just got my MS1 v3 kit from diy auto tune, I started assembling it today. When I got to the power supply test I figured out I had D10 backwards, I switched it and tried again, this time D12 sizzled. It was in backwards too, it broke in half when I tried to take it out. I have to replace D12, is there should I replace D10 too? Anything else? I'll stop by radioshack tomorrow morning on the way to school, I hope they have it. Edit: I did some research, D12 is a surge protector and it's safe to test without it. I did the test and I got 5v everywhere I should have. looks like D10 is ok.

Sit down with a calculator and a pencil?

It could be better than discarded....

I was trying to diagnose a rich condition on a friends late 80's 325i, it was rich(black smoke, couldn't get out of it's own way) unless you were hammering on it. I figured it might be the FPR. I undid the bolt, put my hand over it to shield myself from high pressure gas. Give it a yank, pop, a little gas comes out, nothing bad happens. Fiddle with it for a minute yup it's seized up, got it to move more freely so I put it back on and went for a drive. Car was a little better but still not right. I go to take the FPR off again, not wearing safety glasses or anything, didn't even think about it, undid the bolt and gave the bastard a yank. 60psi of fuel right in the eyes, It seemed like that fuel rail held a quart of gas! I saw it coming and tried to close them but I think even if I was fast enough the pressure would have opened them up anyhow. I ran to the shower as fast as I could and just stuck my head under the faucet on full cold. That was the worst pain ever. I smelled gas for days and my eyes and whole face were red for a week.

The easiest way to fix an RX7 is with an LS1. Good luck!

The shafts on the top look identical to the z32 vlsd shafts I have, mine just have a flange between the shaft and the CV.

Motors don't have strict power ratings like that, if your builder told you 800hp it's not like it'll live forever at 799 but grenade instantly at 801. You're probably pretty safe at 850. But as to your question, AFAIK the glide is more efficient than a th400 but I just can't see it being more efficient than a 5spd with a clutch. The torque converter is what causes a lot of the loss, there will always be slip. A torqu converter works similar to having two box fans facing each other, one's plugged in and the other isn't. The air from the one that's on will tun the blade of the other one, it won't spin up as fast and once it's spun up it still won't turn at the same speed. That's where the loss comes from. I don't have any numbers to back this up though, just some theory. I've heard that 20-25% loss is to be expected from a big stalled auto.

You want the pre 4/87(march of 87 build date) turbos, those are the .60/.63 T3's. The later ones are tiny T25's. 5-6# would be reasonable non intercooled and two of those turbos should be good to over 400rwhp. You could upgrade later on to a pair of hybrids too. Check for play in the shafts of the turbos to see if they are usable, a little up and down is normal, but there should be no in and out.

I was thinking a stg 3 wheel in a bored out stock housing, or were you assuming I already had a stg 3 wheel? That reminds me, I need to start another thread.

400hp at the wheels should be good to low 11's if he can get GOOD traction. I've personally run 12.3 at 109 in a 3300lb camaro, that equates to about 330rwhp or ~390 crank hp using 20% drivetrain loss because of my big stalled automatic. But yes, 400hp will be VERY entertaining. I bet ~330 would still put a smile on your face. I'm jealous of your nice compressor map(and the shiny stuff), mine isn't quite as nice. I'm a little worried about surge. link to map

I think it would be easy IF you converted to CV's at the same time. I might call modern motorsports to find out how many splines the q45 swap CV swap axles have. I don't think you can retain the stock halfshafts at all, but I haven't looked.

Correct. I had an FB that I was going to hybrid before I got my 280z.

I used the sch40 white stuff in a pneumatic potato cannon. I can confidently say that 3" pvc will hold 120psi, unless you drop it, then it breaks. Trust me. I would have absolutely NO reservations about using pvc for cold piping up to 25-30psi, there might be an issue with keeping the silicone couplers on at those pressures though. Using sch80 wouldn't hurt though.

There's a video on streetfire of an 8sec street car doing a ~100yd long burnout off the t-brake. He used PVC piping. That's probably what I'm gonna use too.

Not a problem, the car might see 4000mi a year, maybe, if it ever leaves the jackstands.

I'd say you're probably right. AFAIK it's not that the pistons are weak, it's that they're brittle and detonation is like whacking them with a hammer. I just found out that there's a couple e85 stations around, I might have to try some if I ever get my Z running.

If you don't clean the underside of the area that you're welding the undercoating will make a really thick nasty smoke and fill your garage completely within minutes, trust me. Get a fan or something to ventilate the area. The light from welding can actually give you a sunburn so cover up if you're going to be welding for any period of time.

I feel that the floor acts as a structural member in this type of car(unibody) and that riveting in a new piece of metal may let the car flex more. I'm basing this solely from looking at my car(I'm doing floors right now too.) and slight research I've done on other cars(3rd gen f-body) and little real world experience. You could definitely rivet in some new material, seal it up good, and have it not leak. I just think it's not the best way. My 110v mig welder is the most useful tool I own.

That's why I'm trying to fit a z32 vlsd in my car. If I can't make it work then it's pretty easy to put in my dads z31.

I've got one, I sent you a PM.

I've been tagged......

The z31 30a is internally the same as the z32 30a and the 2wd pathfinder 30a. I think the z32 trans might be shorter, but I don't know for sure. I have no idea about being similar to the rb25 trans though.

The 87+(W) turbo cars had the 30a transmission, the pre 87 turbos had a T5. If it has the 30a, could you PM me a price. I know someone looking for one.

OK, I just disassembled one of my z32 1/2 shafts. The splined section that the inner CV slides onto is 27 splines. Does anyone know the spline count for the q45 CV swap axles, I tried to count them from the picture in the sticky but I couldn't see them all clearly. Edit: I'm wondering about the spline count on z31 axles too.