mr jdm

If your going to take it to multiple places, my advice would be have one place do the body work, and one shop do everything mechanical related. If there are issues with the car, which in the beginging there will be, you dont want shops having to figure out what the last shop did. Plus every shop has a different way of doing it the "right way" and they all can criticize eachothers work and start recommending undoing what the last shop did. This will set you back big $ for no reason.

This got my vote for worst hybridZ thread

Motor is done, car runs great, put 150 across the board on a compression test. I just have a few minor things to do to the car to get it "done" and be happy

If I dont pick up a girl from the bar, I always got the glory hole

Not that lucky, leakdown test confirms there is a problem on the intake valves

I cant remember if I have posted in here

What most people dont realize is the cost of building a Z car doesn't go into the motor. Its getting your rust taken care, new paint, new weatherstrips, deciding if you are going with a fuel cell and running braided lines. Getting gauges, seats, suspension, brakes. On another note, what is up with that dyno chart

Well, I am back on being confident that I dont have bent valves. I pulled the motor earlier today and just took it apart (except the head is still on the block) I made such a bad mistake, in the last few weeks I have had the head off the motor about 3 times. None of those 3 times I tightened my arp studs, not the NUT, but the actual hex key on top of the stud.I only tightened them about 2 years ago when I first was assembling the motor. Anyways, today when I was unbolting the nuts to the head studs, cylinder number 2, intake side, the nut came out with the stud! On top of that, when I unbolted my oil pans, I had brand new fresh oil with some slightly mixed coolant. I'm pretty sure 0 compression was due to the head stud, however, tomorrow I will lift my head off and head to a napa machine shop and have them pressurize and vaccuum test my valves anyway! results posted shortly

I am so pissed, tomorrow I will pull the motor put it on the stand and takes thing a little bit slower. hopefully I can have time to pull the valves. I remember an old trick back in highschool that I learned, it was something like putting grease on the valve, and then holding it up and spinning it, if it left a perfect circle it was good, and if it didnt it was bad. Anybody know the exact details to this method, or I have done a lot of engine work before, but I have never really dealt with bad/bent valves. Any suggestions how to inspect them if they arent completely obvious?

Whats even worse, is I'm not entirely sure if its the vales or the piston. Reason is , is about 6 weeks ago I swapped in a new crank, piston, and rod due to my oil pickup cracking and losing pressure while doing a high speed run. I installed those parts and everything worked great, and had comp tested 150 across before I was at the dyno, car made great numbers on the dyno. I still dont know whether to think the valves got fucked up or if that piston/ring I installed went bad, anybody have suggestions besides doing a leakdown test?

Got the motor together today, had it comp tested, everything was 150 except cylinder 2 was 0. Back to the drawing board.

I think next time I hit the dyno I will do an all motor pull to show how accurate this calculator is.

If you think a good tuner will predict how much fuel to add, instead of tuning 2 psi increments on the dyno, then your tuner is somebody I would rather not bring my car too.

I worked on it for a little yesterday but ran out of time. The car will be running within the next 7 days. Today I found what caused my chain to snap. If you are fimiliar with KA or SR motors, then you know most people remove the upper timing chain guide, I did that. But I have a habbit of putting bolts into the threaded holes they came out of, bad idea! I both bolts threaded where the guide was after it was removed, turns out one bolt backed out and fell, this bolt fell between the chain and crank sprocket. That has to be why it snapped, and it explains the beat up bolt that was at the bottom of my pan.

I have a e6k and I wouldnt sell it for a dime less than 550 with a new ignitor and new coils. That is VERY cheap or very broken.

BTW, if you ever need parts again, I always usually have some spares for an SR laying around.

I was a little bit shocked too, I will have the car together tonight and do a compression test before I try to crank it over. There isn't a single mark on any piston and no marks on any of the valves. I dont feel like taking the valves out to check them, I will only do that if my compression numbers aren't good.

You have the s14 vvt head confused with a neo VVL head. VVL head comes on fwd sr20's only, boosted they make great power just like k20's, and can rev to 8500-9k rpm. VVL is Nissans response to VTEC, Swapping the fwd VE head on a RWD block doesn't take to much work. Its a much better head design, and they dont throw rockers. Your going to daily your car? ah man, I drove my car once 4 days in a row and thought that was more than enough, I wouldn't have the heart to daily a first gen z that you spend time putting together.

Mine is simple, and barely makes any noise

Your car is nice, your one of the guys I wouldn't mind meeting off this board, and the pictures of both our cars would come out sick. On a side note, I am strongly consider throwing on a VVL head over this winter. If your going for good power and want to rev to 8500-9k rpm without to much work, that might be the way to go.

This is extremely exaggerating the price. Most shops will shorten a driveshaft for about 75 bucks, You can easily use a 40 dollar throttle lokar cable. 750?? for a radiator setup? I have a griffin aluminum radiator in my car with NO fans for around 300 bucks. Running no fans, I have yet to ever see a single degree higher than 180.

Got the head off just now. No damage to pistons or any of the valves. Hopefully I can have it together tonight with new chain, tensioner, and guides. Time to find another boost controller and hit the dyno again.

itzgoten, you ever take your car to the drag strip?

Miatas are alright, but I wouldn't own one. I only own them to part them out. I will post my damage results tomorrow.

3-4k for a sr20 motor? Thats nuts, they are old motors already. Here is a fairly good priced motor, for what you would save you can have a built bottom end and head http://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=95&category_id=8&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26