jasper

My 2 cents. Toe does not cause a pull. Only toe, and excessive camber wears tires. Thrust angle will cause dog tracking, but not a pull. .5 degrees of front camber difference can cause a pull. Brand new tires, and or worn tires can cause a pull(front)(swap left to right to fix, and or confirm) Excessive caster difference can cause issues. ( you have both camber, and caster issuses in front) Fix what is broken/worn. Shifting crossmembers/subframes can aid in evening up side to side differences. Side to side equalization is you major concern, assuming close to spec. If still out of spec,or for ease/accuracy of adjustment, use aftermarket eccentrics or camber/caster plates, etc. This assumes no structural damage. This approach works for me on a daily basis on todays cars.

Good info. First, apparently 14* is your base ignition timing, what is your max/total advance??? From my experience, most coil/wire/plug/misfire/problems occur in high gear at moderate throttle,..Kind of like a clutch slipping in high gear(high load, high torque), ....not at WOT in a lower gear! Running in a lower gear may stress drive line componets, but not your ignition system, etc. Coils, etc generaly fail under low rpm, high load. Wild stab here.....what are your vacuum readings, and what are the power valve/s rated at?? What is your rear diff ratio? Are you overgeared?? "Lugging" it?? 1600 rpm is kind of LOW at 60 mph ! for most cars. Most times..... I'm thinking approx 2200 rpm at that speed,is about the norm.

How do you know it's running lean? Is your ignition timing and advance correct? Retarded timing causes high temps. Under a heavy load in overdrive, pinging/detonation can cause high temps also.

40's, 45's, or 50's ??? Makes a difference.

Not mine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DELLORTO-Datsun-Nissan-Triple-Carb-240Z-260Z-280Z-/220821056090?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3369f5ea5a http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Intake-Manifold-DellOrto-Carbs-/150639247332?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2312cc7fe4

Sounds like bad/leaky ignition wires. If the engine runs well now, take a windex type spray bottle, and spray the wires,cap, and plugs while the engine is running. Watch for/listen for the the sparking/arcing/misfiring/farting etc. Works everytime. The engine should not falter at all when sprayed with water,.....Good luck

Drive the car till the problem occurs. While running remove the fuel cap. If you hear a sucking rush of air into the tank, you have a tank venting problem. This was not unheard of with 60's vented fuel caps being replaced with emissions non vented fuel caps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZboxMsSz5Aw

That is a resistor. Colored bands represent the ohm measurement. See a standardized resistor color/value chart. I don't see a capacitor in your pic. http://samengstrom.com/24614782/en/read/4_Band_Resistor_Color_Codes

IF you have a catalytic converter, make sure that it is not a restriction, including any exhaust issues. Also important, monitor fuel pressure when the problem occurs. Use a known good guage. If you were not aware, there is a fuel filter in the bottom of the stock electric fuel pump,....possible restriction........

Thanks for your help. I wasn't as lucky/fruitful in the time I spent searching. Much appreciated

What town are you in???

Hey guys, My brother is working on a 1979 MG Midget, as we speak(as I post). We have been scouring the web for a while, and can't find the Ignition timing specs. It will take a day or two to order a book. Anyone know the answer, or have the book??? Thanks in advance.......

This is meant as advice, not abuse. If this is your first car, I suspect you're very young, with lots to learn. If the picture you posted is the car in its current condition, it's not ready for paint. Body work is the hardest, most tedious,time consuming auto repair to accomplish. Many "professional's" work leave much to be desired. My suggestion to you, read up on body work, learn the basic techniques, do the best you can, in a reasonable amount of time, and get a cheap Earl Shieb paint job. They are more fun to drive, than do body work on. You will be very surprised how flaws show up once painted.Don't waste your money on an expensive paint job. Oh Yeah,.......cars and women come and go, This one won't be your last

The intake boot between the AFM and THROTTLE body looks pretty sick. If you have ANY air leak between those two points, you WILL have problems, and may have misadjusted the AFM, to compensate for a leak. Positively no leaks allowed. Just read the "not my car", but still applies. Also, take a spray bottle like windex with water, and spray all the ignition wires, coil, and distributor cap. ANY change in engine sound/running indicates a bad component.

I would first try and sell it as is. No money out of pocket. For all you know, the prospective buyer might be looking for a clean shell, or to do a v8 swap. You can always turn down an offer, and spend the time and money to make it run later. My 2 cents.......

Thanks for the insight.

Did it EVER work properly??? I may be wrong, but I didn't think you could get a 5spd in 1975? I believe '77& '78 it became available. You need to post ALL the RELEVANT INFORMATION

Try installing the previous master and or slave. WHY were they replaced??? Was everything operating properly prior to these changes???

Looks like a shifted belt. Never seen it on a bike though. I see it on car tires every once and a while. Yeah....you're lucky

OK, From your answers, your clutch is not releasing. This could be mechanical, or hydraulic in nature. Your trans is fine, and the type of fluid will not matter. (at this time) All we know is you have a 5spd trans. What year, model, engine, trans, and modifications, if any, do you have??? My thought/guess is you installed a mismatched, or wrong master, and/or slave. This ASSUMES no operational issues prior to your changing the posted 3 items, FLUIDS, MASTER,and SLAVE. Check push rod length and adjustment.

Please take the time to read my post, and understand the questions, as I have taken the time to try and assist you. The questions are written to HELP diagnose YOUR problem, and are VERY SPECIFIC. An accurate response is important. Give it one more try.

Does the trans shift into first,second, third,or fourth when hot easily, with the engine NOT running?? Does the trans grind into reverse,when hot, with the engine RUNNING??

So, for clarification, it WAS the reaction disc,(out of place) causing the problem. (on/off/stabiness) YES??? You replaced it with a 10" remanufactured unit, and solved the problem, and gained more assist, as a bonus.

I think it's WORSE tan that! Take a CLOSE look at the A pillar. That IS scary. WAIT A MINUTE! How did he hinge the door??? This guy must be a Houdini!! HOUND not included.