jasper

What makes you think you need an engine rebuild? How do you know "oil" is on the plugs? How many spark plugs are involved? Which ones? What are the compression numbers? What color is the smoke out of the tailpipe? Get the idea???

The EARLY 260Z was approx. a 6 month production car. Search. It has some 240 attributes, and some 280 attributes. It's my personal favorite. That's why I own 1. But DON'T limit yourself, GET ONE OF EACH.

Carbs generaly don't break. Most common problems are caused by dirt/crap, and/or NOT adjusted properly. ALL carbs operate on basicaly the same principles. I have seen numerous posts by others unable to solve their carb problems, looking for guidance on what OTHER carb they should get to solve their problem. If you can't understand/repair one brand of carb, chances are you won't be able to understand/repair another brand. Same goes for EFI. MANY "carb" problems can be fixed by correcting vacuum leaks,and/or ignition problems. If it were my car, I would start with the BASICS, and diagnose and repair the problem.

The only sports my Dad ever had on TV were the Olympics. Once and a while motorcylce racing. I played some sports, nothing very organized. Today, I have no interest in watching sports. I can't appreciate/understand all the conjecture/arm chair coaching that goes on. I'm totaly lost. Give Me something CONSTRUCTIVE to do with my time.

When good coal goes bad..... http://www.history.com/shows/life-after-people/videos/centralia-pennsylvania#centralia-pennsylvania

Same as a pellet stove, but much better, in many ways.

NO smell, NO smoke (can't tell it's running). Runs 4 days unattended on Low. VARIABLE OUTPUT, thermostaticaly contolled . No chimmeny, 2 foot singe wall stack. The MOST cost effective way to make heat, unless you get your wood for free. Burns outside air, 0 air infiltration/draft due to stove burning. 1 ton = 200 gallons of oil. currently $155.00 -$275.00 ton, location/vendor dependant. If you read up on it, YOU WILL WANT ONE!!! Going on 5 years of use........ So far this year, I've burned 1.4 tons @ $220.00 per ton...2800 square foot house, only source of heat

I buy 8-9 tons of COAL every 3 years. No chopping or splitting for me. Runs 24/7, nice even temp. http://www.harmanstoves.com/products/details.asp?cat=stoves&prd=coal-stoves&f=DVC500

The carbs are essentialy the same/identical as the carbs on your Datsun. Watch all the videos by this man. Good Luck.

From my experience, when you feel it in the body of the vehicle, or the seat backs shake, and you feel it in the seat of your pants, it's drive shaft/rear drive axel related. Bad/stiff u joint. Bent drive shaft/axel. Shifting differential/shaft angle? Rotational balance issue.(anything rotating) Road Force tire balancing is STRONGLY suggested. A tire can balance good dynamicaly, but when the "force of the road" is applied, vibrations can occur. Bad tire/ stacking of radial runouts. There was a Sienna mini van that went through the shop, no one could fix the vibration.They swapped axels (fwd), tires/wheels, etc,etc. They even put a FWD transmission in it. The shop foreman FINALY asked me to take a ride and give him my opinion. I found an aftermarket rear brake drum had been recently installed at an outside shop. I put it on the tire balancer...8 ounces out The hub hole was not concentric with the casting. A new factory drum fixed the vibration. Make sure your wheels are CENTERED on the axel.

What exactly is vibrating, and WHERE do you feel it/and or see it. A better description would be VERY helpful.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280610282296&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT also early 74 260Z, see Courtsey's listing

In your pics, It appears you have the STOCK diff mount on TOP of the diff. It belongs in it's factory position, on the bottom of the diff. A bolt on snubber/bump stop (extra part) bolts on top. This is what it appears to be wrong from your pics.

Unless someone has "uncentered" the wheel by removing it as you want to do, I would leave it alone. A WHEEL ALIGNMENT is the proper way to center the wheel. If someone misinstalled the rack, and failed to maintain the centered position, you need to center the rack relative to the wheel,done at the rack. Steering racks usually have a THRU CENTER "area" as manufactured. It's"tighter". This center position helps keep the car going straight down the road. It WILL also affect turning radius left to right, and may cause tire rubbing and,or suspension interference. Additionaly, sometimes the turn signal cancel clock positions can be altered by repositioning the steering wheel. I would do it properly.

FYI, I bought new, bulk, straight fuel hose, in the correct sizes, at the local parts store, and replaced EVERY fuel hose without kinking. No need to search for expensive, original hoses.

Then this must be the reverse flow headed version....??? Are you SHURE it's a 2TC/3TC???

If I remember correctly, Mitsubishi liked to mount their fuel pumps up high, as seen in the photo. Check the block, and look for stamped logo's on th pulleys, etc.

Sorry, Not much help with the engine. My guess, datsun/toyota. Honda was mostly FWD. But, you do get points for posting your location.

After wrestling with this, I called the guy to say I'm passing this one up. I have enough projects, I'm not debt free(but who is), and floors in my house would be nice, I already have a RUNNING Benz, etc.... Da,da,da,....I offered to trade one of my (less desirable) Z's for the benz. Sent him pics of the '73 240 auto. Hell, I'll even throw a little cash on top if he bites and waffles. I've cast out the bait........now we wait.........

I have my own personal Snap-On scanner. I haven't used it on any newer benz's. Would this scanner give me the info/codes I need to know to locate the area to concentrate in. I am well aware scanners don't fix cars. Technicians with good skills and INFORMATION do. [/quote

I'm a seasoned technician, and I'm sure I can fix this car. Not sure how much it will cost, though. I'm a bit concerned with other seemingly inherent problems that may appear. It seems cheap enough, with similar RUNNING examples going for 2 to 3 times as much. Although it shares MANY parts with it's standard cousins, C36 parts might be pricey. And no, funds are not unlimited. I also enjoy automotive challenges. I LOVE to fix, what others cannot. Thanks for the input, looking for additional thoughts,experience..........

I have the option to buy this car for $3000.00 130,000 miles. VERY CLEAN. Currently in SAFE MODE, stuck in 2nd gear. Trans was replaced by owner, also NEW MB valve body. Same problem. I don't think this guy has any benz experience.(SUBARU MECHANIC) I did some research, and reliability is not a halmark of the latter benz's. Any thoughts?? FYI; I have put 80K on my 1992 190E 2.6 with essentialy no problems (last of the good ones?)

I would repair with a JB WELD/ LIQUID STEEL/PC7 type of product. Strong, and can be drilled and filed. Use a plastic dowel in place of the pivot pin during moulding. This can easily be removed after product cures.