240hoke

I dont really know what these motors are worth... 350 for the long block out of her car. 200 for the short block with crank and rods. These are both 6-bolt motors. PM with a offer.

I have two blocks for sale, they are my girlfriends, she wrecked her car and i am helping her sell parts to buy a miata! The engine that came out of her car would be a perfect canidate for you. It was in great condition when she wrecked. I have taken the manifolds off it and the valve cover and timing assymbly. I still have the timing assymbly which literally had a couple thousand miles on it. The motor is out of a first gen eclipse turbo. It does have 171K miles on it, but wa sin very good condition, didnt use oil or smoke, she had just had alot of mantence done to it. I also have a bare block for sale, It is a 6 bolt block that has been cleaned painted and honed. I have the rods and crank with it. I can ship these items out! Please email me if you are interested I would like to sell them! twiistedsixx@gmail.com

okay I typed up a big post, which ill summarize. I ran a turbonetics internal gate wit ha 1.25" puck and ported out my t3 housing as big as i could with that puck ~1.125". Once This was done I no longer had boost creep, but my dual port actuator could no longer keep the flapper shut without a huge spring. I ended up with 11psi base with a tad bit of creep in high gears. When I went to 16psi there was no creep. I think this was due to my .82 a/r stg 5 wheel but im not sure. At anyrate going to a dual port actuator isnt gonna help you at all, in fact changing anything about the actuator isnt gonna help period. A dual port actuator will help you with spool up, but you have a flow issue. The idea behind a dual port actuator is that you put a boost reference to both sides of the diaphram. So that the boost pressure holds helps to hold it shut. When you reach the desired boost level your EBC can then bleed the pressure off the top of hte diaphram, opening it. This keep the flapper shut longer, a conventional actuator slowly opens until you reach the desired boost. Heres a little diagram i made to clarify: And in my opinion I dont know why you are so stuck on staying internal, I think you should reconsider. To get optimal performance out of an internally gated setup you need a good EBC, a large puck, a ported wastegate housing, a dual port wastegate actuator, and alot of time screwing with it -- after this is done you still dont have optimal results. I just bought all the stuff to switch over to external gate with 3" DP (tial 38mm with flanges, cast elbows for welded to exhaust manifold, 3" t3 transition block off, 1.5" dump tubing, 3" DP tubing, and V band clamps for my DP) The total came to jsut over 400 bucks. I think its a worth while investment. The Nissan Cast meterial seems to be very weldable from posts that I had read. I blew my last motor due to boost creep before I ported the housing. Jumped to 20+ psi before i knew it!

Ive been to an indicated 150+ on the datsun speedo which we all know is inaccurate. Now that I have a 200mph autometer I should have more accurate results, although i think ill try and stay cool on the streets, for the most part anyway. With all the dumb people out there its too scary. My car definitly got light at those speeds and wanted to move around, hopefully my new setup will be much better. Bikes are another matter - my cbr600f4 i used to have frequented 140 an I took her up to 160 several times. Talk about ROCK SOLID -- there is nothing like speed on a motorcycle. ive got some 140mph vids of my 260 but where i got a clip of the speedo ill have to dig them up. My z was stable to 120-140ish and then it got scary.

I love that car, and i really like that they did with the white one. Really adds that extra touch to blend the z into it. I too would buy this kit in a second! I would love to have a 240zsx as a DD!! -Austin

BP is the only gas i use in any of my vehicles

Im sorry but i have to say it: S E A R C H there are pictures and information and more information, and stuff you prolly dont even wanna know about r200's and r230's. I found a good quote by Z-Tard The r200 mustache bar that bolts to the rear of hte diffy will also be behind(toward the rear) the uprights if it is a r200. here is a picture of my r200: A r180 will look much narrower then that. hope that helped! Please use the search function next time.

its going to raise your compression up a hair more....

Mike get that NAWZZZon there ASAP! It should fix the misfire

you hsould be fine with those spring rates but you prolly want a 10" spring, a little soft but they sound perfect for what you want to do. Seems strange azc would have sold you 8" spring for your application. The only reason i know to go to the 8 is for stiff rates and more tire clearence. Sounds like sectioning is the way to go -- you should be able to get your money back for those illuminas as im sure somebody would grab them from you. I am running 250/275 on my 240z with tockico's,heim jointed lca's, and t/c rods and i dont think the ride is too bad. Its rough for sure but not jaring or enough to throw you from the seat as you describe. Heres a little reference for sectioning, this is on a 240z http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/coilovers.html

Well gabe i think they look great! I never was a fan of centerline but you did make those work, props!

Single wire Air/Fuel mixture gauges are TRASH. They may be somewhat accurate at fuell throttle. But if your gonna get a afr gauge get a wideband one... just my two cents.

If it was me, I would add a fuel pressure gauge. Very very very important on a boosted car. So given the choice of two gauges i woudl replace the clock with the boost gauge and instal a fuel pressure gauge in the a/c vent on the side. This is how i ran my old 260z Now I am running all autometer's so no split stuff which would have been nice. But i went with a speedo, tach, boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure, water temp, and fuel. Im assuming you have a 260z, but if you have a 240 and dont mind doing a little cutting you can mount them in the center console. There are just other option then spending a ton of money on gauges like that htought i would throw it out. This is my 240z console i threw some glass and bondo on becuase i ran out of gauge room. Its painted balck now this was in the primer stage... here is another idea i played with... i didnt like the final product of my carbon work and was too lazy to do it right so i nixed it. And here is my old fuel pressure gauge that i mounted in the a/c vent, horrible picture but you get the idea. (and yes it is crooked, i never mounted it solid so it could be rotated a little bit)

Ive got skid plates under my car at each corner so i can let the air out of my bags and the wheel lift all teh way off hte ground and the car slides!

Take it to the track. Racing on the street is irresponsible. Nice kills btw

i was bored:

I am intriged by the MSNS the more i read the more i like. I saw they have a driver for coil packs yummy. More features then sds including datalogging.

Im gonna have to throw another one in for NC, I live in a smallish town 20 mintues from charlotte. The area has lots of motorsports stuff being a hub for nascar , within 2 hours of VIR and Kershaw and driving a little distance will get you to a few others. its nice here. great weather mild winters lots of trees. Real estate is going up but you can still find nice spots for a good price. Like matt said we have a little of everything, some of the best beaches in the country on the coast along with the outer banks, and then on the opposite end the blue ridge mountains with amazing scenery and even more amazing roads. Not to mention its the south and the people are a fair bit more hospitable then many other areas of the country. I sure dont want to leave. I want to start up a shop somewhat close to my hometown whenever i get out of school. Do something for the import motorsports area which i think could use a little shove over here.

they take meterial off the turbine wheel on the back. And yes it is from turbonetics....so its balanced with the nut I talked with james today and he said there is prolly more damage then i think since it has touched hte housing. He instructed me to shipp it off to Turbo's direct for a rebuild and assesment, he would get back with me as soon as they got it. What do yall think. I would love to save the money and do it myself but i dont want it to grenade? Would i be fine giving it a shot?

What im worried about is the balancing. Ive read it isnt and issue if you have individually balanced blades but when they are blanced as an assymbly with hte nuts its almost impossible ot get them back right again. My friend redid the turbos on his 300zxtt and got about 10 miles down the roads before they started spewing oil on him again... his a toyota tech lol so he knows his stuff somewhat.

Well the df/df was holding 250hp and 305ft/lbs at 11psi and then i was running 16psi for quite sometime without any issues on my 260, but my tranny seal went and it got oil covered i cleaned it up but that prolly killed it a bit. cf/df sucks anyway. So after hearing great things about a company called Competition Clutches i have ordered a Stage 4 sprung hub 6 puck clutch. I found out about them through Jack at P1. He had installed them on a few turbo civics with 550hp and had no problems. He also called the pres of CC and talked with the him about the 280zx application he said the stage 4 would hold the power no problem. Supposeably they have near stock clutch pedal feel. Anyway i can wait to try it out. With the sprung hub and different PP I wont run into the issues so many are having with the ACT Heres a link to the site: http://www.competitionclutch.com/view.phtml?f_cat=Sport+Compact+Clutch+Kits&is_makeable=1

Haha, well thanks 2802NR. Didnt relise id get so much redicule lol. I knew what the thing was but i didnt know how common casting defects were. Jsut something to look for when you have your motor apart. I know it wasn't helping out water flow around the #1 comprsseion chamber. It was clogging the passage enough where I could feel air coming through when i blew through it.

hehe yup just high heat spray paint -- ive found duplicolor stuff works pretty well.

Sounds like a plan to me!

Well i finally got my stuff together and went to the dyno this saturday. Looking forward to tuning and getting my car up to its poteintial. Started out making a few pulls very short check the tuning 15-45mph 15-55mph etc. Tune looked good but as soon as the turbo reached full boost (11psi right now) the dyno just dropped off and we could smell the clutch. I was using the old centerforce d/f clutch from my 260 so i knew it could happen but didnt think it would give out so soon. It held up to 200hp at 3800 rpm lol. then the dyno graph didnt mean squat. Also this weekend While under the car I noticed the turbo seals were getting quite bad. With oil dripping out of the bottom of the compressor. I knew it was on its way out too as it had a little shaft play. So anyway excuss for upgrading right? Turns out i caught the turbo just in time as the compressor wheel was barely coming into comtact with the housing (no enough to cause damage that i see). Im sending the 2 year old turbo off for a rebuild and maybe a little upgrade . Prolly going with a ACT 6puck or a Stage 4 Competition Clutch if they make it for my car. Anyway.... Pulled the tranny and clutch out this morning (2 hours lol) along with the turbo so im ready to go for hopefully next weekend or the weekend after that! Now i am definitly hoping to see upwards of 400hp Anyway just thought i woudl share here are a few pictures: actually found a crack in the friction material, but nothing major. I think the CF just wasnt up to it. drivetrain loss? Patiently waiting for goodies: