darkstarrocker

If I remember right, the 81 had a silver Z on the hood. My 82 turbo had and has all gold emblems including the hood. May have been an appearance package.

Drain all the coolant into a clean container, replace the valve and any hoses you want to, and the pour the coolant back in.

That's crazy! I never would have thought... I can compress the tensioner on my G60 by hand. The G-Lader must require less tension. But, now I think about it, I did need a special tool for my MINI, that was an Eaton M45. The special tool was a 3' bar to compress the tensioner... Never though about the forces at work until now. Previous statement redacted!

I like Honda's MTF. You'll only get around 30k miles before it starts to break down and get notchy though. You guys do know an 75w90 gear oil is very similar viscosity wise, to a 10w40 engine oil? The ad pack is the primary concern.

I'm still not sure why you have to run so much tension... is it a function of your serp belt setup? I know the tensions aren't as high on OEM applications, even with increased boost. EDIT: I don't know as much as I think and I still get schooled.

You can run a CS130 alternator as a 1 wire. If you get one for a Dodge Monaco it'll bolt in with the factory brackets. I think the thread is still on the front of the ignition/electrical subforum

I AM right, because I've done it myself. His exact same situation, except I took my Corrado over to Germany. Soldiers take their cars into and out of Germany every day. I helped people with their inspections all the time. I helped my soldiers export their vehicles as part of outprocessing all the time. It's 100% military, including bringing a euro spec vehicle back to the states with you, providing it's 25 years old or older. I brought back a German Rabbit Convertible with my Corrado's engine in it. So I have personally: -Taken a us spec vehicle into Germany. -Swapped that engine into a euro - spec car, got it to pass military inspection, AND had it TÃœV'd. -Brought that modified euro - spec car back to the states and got it titled with NCDMV. OP, take the Z, you'll be fine, even with mods. You can bring it back with you no problem, but you may sell it when you find out how much money you could potentially sell it for - pm me of you want to know how the Zollamt works. Buy a $500-1000 daily beater when you get there for a dd. You'll be glad you did.

WRONG. He's with the military, he'll have ZERO issues bringing his car back. Been there, done that.

You definitely need horn and turn signals. You need a title to ship, but to register in the USAREUR system you normally just need a notarized bill of sale. Comes in really hand when daily beaters are 12-13 owner cars! Mods are fine in the USAREUR system, but Polezei stopped my all the time for my S2000's exhaust. They USAREUR registration normally gets you off the hook. With some work, you could probably have the car TUV'd as well. For the exhaust, I'd get a removable muffler section made and just swap it out for inspection time. I'd also use a false cat just to be on the safe side.

For shipping, it needs to run and drive and not leak fluids. If you have a battery kill or anything special, include instructions for starting. For US military inspections, the big gigs are: Leaking exhaust Fluid leaks Sh!t brakes. Need to have even brake torque side to side Working ebrake Cracked light lenses Cracked glass Ball joints, bushings, tierods with excessive play If your car is TRULY in ROADWORTHY condition, you're fine. If anything I listed is wrong, fix it beforehand. While you're there, rockauto is going to be your best friend. Consider selling while you're there. I bought a sh!t n/a '80 ZX from a soldier for $400, got it to pass TUV, and sold it for 3000 euros. Can't beat that with a stick.

I think if you can redesign the tensioner so the pulley sits closer to the charger pulley, and adjusts straight up and down or with an angle towards the charger pulley, you'll have less issues with slip. Please excuse the crude paint drawing: untitled.bmp

Are you getting any belt slip? I've had issues in my VW with a smaller charger and more belt wrap.

Most of the M cars from that era were running ITBs... Wait, I see your point. For $50 bucks though, if you have the time and money, why not?

It's either disconnect it, or find a working level sensor.

I submit my Brown Meanie:

Disconnecting it makes it check ok. If I connect mine it'll throw the washer light and stay red constantly.

A properly adjusted valvetrain is louder than one that's out of spec...

I'm an M1 fanboy. Their 15w50, HM, and HD Truck oils have more ZDDP than your average 80's oil. Bobistheoilguy.com is a good resource for questions like this. I've been running the M1 5w30HM for 15,000 miles now and have no abnormal wear on my Schneider turbo cam, which supposedly has wear issues with low zinc oils. The common responses over there for flat tappet engines are M1, VR1, and Amsoil Zrod, and Brad Penn.

If the car has the power antenna wiring (fairly certain it won't,) you may be able to use the aftermarket head unit antenna wire to power it. Should be the blue w/ red stripe. It worked on mine, but some won't have the amps to power the antenna.

Yes, and they're crap connectors to begin with. Buy some Deoxit and clean all the plugs.

Most automatic antennas require a double pole, double throw relay so that when there is no current supplied to one wire (in your case, red), current is supplied to the other (white). When your radio ant. wire energizes the relay, power goes to red and sends it up. When the relay has no power going to it, power goes to white.

I just installed this alternator, and I'm getting crazy headlight dimming at idle from my modest stereo. What size pulley are you using? I'm certain mine is too big, seeing how small the serp. Pulley that came in the alt was.

Just stopped by Rocket Auto and scored a cast pulley he had lying around, and ordered a Monaco alt. Guy behind the counter didn't think I was serious, then I told him it was for my Z. He told me that made more sense than someone actually buying parts for a Monaco.

Lol, you see? That's what I'm talking about. Now I've another possible swap to research. These cars have been around for too long! Edited - That's the same "CS130" alternator that comes in the Saturn, but the one spec'd for the Dodge is $50 cheaper...

Which one would you guys recommend? The stock 60 amper isn't going to cut it anymore. When I turn everything on, you can see the lights dim and wipers slow down, etc... Not to mention I hear the bearing starting to tell me it's done. The only additional load I have on it now is a 100x4 channel amp for my stereo. I plan on relaying my headlights, adding electric fans, and a water pump for an air-water setup. I need more juice, and which one would you guys recommend? I've read about 90's Maxima swaps, the 510 guys are doing Saturn alt swaps and KA24E alt swaps, the 240sx guys with KAs are doing Nissan Quest swaps... I think I've overloaded myself with too much information. I'm looking for a direct bolt in alternator with at least 90 amps. I don't mind swapping pulleys.