PhilbertZ

there is a sticky thread here about seat swaps for the Z's....search and you'll find it I have stockies in mine.

like the headliner and seats - looking forward to more build updates!

I love laguna seca blue - it seems to change color in different lights.... Interlagos is really nice too. My favorite was always carbon black (BMW M3 as well) - it was black at night and dark, DARK blue in the daylight. Or...there's the Datsun Satin Blue metallic of my 280ZX

2x2's FTW! how did you get coilovers ON the car and lower it to the ground?? I use 1x8 cheap-o boards - 2 per wheel - to drive up on with my M3 (which is too low for the crap-o craftsman jack I have.

Just be careful with your registration - I am guesisng you're out here for school and that's why it's registered out of state? If you get pulled over for anything, the cop may write you a ticket for living in the state and being registred out of state - thus forcing you to register and smog in CA. This happened to me when I was 20 and going to school here with WA plates.

pics or ban!

The ZX doesn't have the clutch on/off switch - my 87 4runner does though I'd check your brake lines and both the master and slave cylinders. I replaced my master about a year ago and it was easy peasy - just took a lot of patience. you don't need to remove your brake booster but I believe the washer fluid tank had to come out (just pull straight up and wiggle gently to "unhook" it from the drivers fender and set out of the way. I'd replace both and do a good flush of your clutch and brake system - both use brake fluid. careful with the brake fluid - it ruins paint so don't spill on your car's exterior.

OK....maybe one other person is that lucky Have fun!

pikc n pull FTW! I just went to one for the first time yesterday and they had my same car (same year and same color)! Course, I wouldn't expect anyone to be that lucky....

Same here - use the diff for the rear and the susp crossmember for the front. My rails are beat to hell too - don't know why - but that's where I put my jack stands. I have a 2 1/4 ton craftman jack - it's low enough for my ZX, but for me BMWs I had to use wood "ramps" to drive up on to get the extra inch or two of clearance for the jack

I believe haynes and chilton are actually one in the same - or at least the same publisher. Take a chilton and look at the inside cover - you'll likely see something with reference to "haynes" publishing. I changed my fuel filter ("pressure regulator"...is that part of the filter unit?) because the old one looked like it hadn't been changed in a while and it was a cheap, easy tune up replacement task that will hopefully give me some better gas mileage/performance soon. this one was easy compared with my 87 4runner...the fuel filter there (did that last week) is located ON the engine block, between the starter and the block. I had to remove the front passenger wheel to access it. A real PITA!

that looks hawt! how did you do it?

yeah - it's a black box where the fusable links/relays are. Do you have an FSM to check? You might want to run the car at idle and pull random relays one at a time (should kill the car within less than 30 seconds if it's the right one...) Or is that crazy??

what car do you have? I just posted a thread about this - I did the fuel pump replacement on my 1980 ZX. on the passenger fender, right next to the engine bay light, is a black box of fusable lnks. The one you pull is on the bank on the outside of the engine bay (toward the fender), and toward the passenger seat. mine was green. Hope this helps!

So I changed my fuel filter today and found my factory FSM was WRONG!! The relay you pull to kill the engine is NOT the one closest to the engine and the passenger seat....but instead is the one closest to the FENDER and passenger seat. It may be a double sized relay in some cases, but mine were all the same size, and the one I had to pull was green (not sure if that matters to everyone else). but I thought it was odd that my 1980 specific FSM was so darn wrong. I had to check my generic CHILTON/HAYNES manual to get the right one....after my engine had been running (sans wrong relay) for 10 minutes)! Just something to note for later

Like Nismopick said, check the TPS. If you search my user name and "TPS" you'll find a thread I wrote when something similar happened to me on my 1980 ZX. I *was* washing the engine bay though.... A simple hair dryer and 15 minutes of time will dry it out and should work good as new, if that's the case. Also, check your air filter housing to see if water got in maybe? Good luck!

Looking forward to it! Still can't believe how great your wheels came out Are you doing springs and struts or just the strut kit? Planning on getting beefier sway bars and strut bars in the future too?

Thanks Jason - I just ordered the standard ones today at the store (and a fuel filter and other stuff I need to do...). They should come in the next couple days... $13 each. I appreciate the effort you guys put into searching and responding here, even if we didn't find the polyurethane.... have a great weekend!

Thanks Junglist, but I think I'll go the conventional way on this one. I called local auto stores and no one seems to be able to get PolyUrethane mounts - just rubber. I'm ok with that but now have another question.... They have "solid" mounts and "standard" mounts. Solids are half the price of standard. Neither one comes with additional hardware (nuts, washers, etc), and both are special order only. Do you guys know what the difference is between solid and standard, and should I be worried about re using the old mounting hardware?

Thanks guys! Seems like Energy is mostly for Domestic applications (came across that page in my research too) - for motor mounts - but I'll give my parts store a call and see if they have them. Otherwise, I think it's going to be OEM/Black Dragon versions. Appreciate the effort you guys put into looking - thanks!

Thanks Smokescreen! I remember your bushing install - I had asked you about it in yoru thread a few months back I have a full set of Prothane bushings (CABs, SBs, ELs, etc) that I plan to install later this month at my friend's house (he has larger garage and more tools). We were planning to do motor mounts at the same time since he has a motor hoist.... So, the next Q is...where do I GET the POLY motor mounts? I've been pretty fruitless in my searches thus far

Hi guys, I'm planning on installing Prothane bushings all around later this month with a buddy who has more space and more tools than me, and he's also offered to help install new motor mounts. I've been looking around and here's what I found: 1) Summit Racing: Does not carry 2) Black Dragon: Has them for about $30 each plus mounting HW 3) Kragen (think autozone chain...): same as Black dragon I don't want to spend an arm and a leg if I don't have to. The motor is stock - no crazy power there. I don't track the car but some day do want to autoX once I have the car "freshened" all around (time and money are sparse...). I've heard there are Polyurethane kits too? And, would I need to do a transmission mount while I'm at it? worth it? needed? Open to suggestions folks - please let me know if you have any, keeping in mind my limited budget and what I plan to do with the car. Thanks in advance! Phil

I'll sell the OP my 355 HP DINAN E46 M3 convertible (38K miles) for less than $30K I never drive it. It's pretty damn fast for a "fat" car, even without the turbo job.

Gotta love those "AHA!" moments, eh? I felt the same way when I learned (earlier in this thread) why it was happening. Something you might want to consider is re-sleeving your electrical connections in the engine bay to keep the water out. I did that on the TPS, my injectors, and a bunch of other components - the rubber was cracked and flaking away.... A simple heat gun and some assorted rubber heat shrink tubing is what I got (harbor freight - cheap!).

oh, and about the metal sleeves on the OEM bushings - do those stay or go with the poly install?