logr

I just put a momo hub on with nrg quick release and Sparco wheel. I had to change a plug to hook to the grounding plate between the hub and the q/r. I also had to loosen the screw holding the wiper and move it in a bit but it hit once I did that. Works great now except that the hub legs aren't in the perfect place for canceling.

The horn works off a ground circuit. The single horn wire(oem) must ground to honk the horn. You must have the second wire hooked up to ground for the button to complete the circuit.

Wire the larger of the 2 wires in the plug to the main feed on the alt. Those both go to 12v+ hot all the time as in directly to the battery.

The alt. just needs 12v. You can wire the larger of the 2 wires in the snap in plug to the main feed wire on the alt. The other wire(in the snap in plug) is for the light and abs.

Not sure if it matters to you but for the "Street Tire" pax in the SCCA rules, you will need 200tw or greater next year. The tires will last more than a year so thought I would bring it up. R1R's are 140tw.

Many of us have tried the RS3's, Direza's and Rivals. For our area and we have a very grippy track, we feel the R1R's are the fastest. They can overheat but not easily in the NW. All of these tires are good so it's more up to the driver at that point.

Phantom, SSSCC is a great group. Was Ken your instructor since he has an LT Z? Any of the instructors there would have been good. I am with a club in Spokane where a bunch of the SSSCC guys come race at. You should come up and give it a try. We have a "Classic" class that SSSCC doesn't have. It is for 70's and older cars and I run my SR Z in it. It is 140tw or greater. Our school is this coming weekend on Sat which is free. It's a school in the morning and a T&T in the afternoon, all free. Sunday is a regular event. Hope to see you there. http://www.autosportsnorthwest.org/ I have 200/225 springs with Bilsteins and the ST bars. It is very neutral and easy to drive. I also have JSK hats with Superlights and 12.2 all the way around which with the ZX master is very modulationable and balanced, with a proportioning valve in the rear. Hope to see you there as I need some competition in my class. Ken and Ricky say they are coming up a bunch this year, in the Z. Lynn, Harold, Mitch, Ian, Kelsey, Dan and others come up a lot. We run on a runway and it is more open than 3-cities.

What is the diff out of?

I used to have a VW van(swapped to a Jetta engine of course) and I bought some aftermarket hubcaps for it. They rusted right away no matter how much wax I put on them. The oem didn't rust much at all. I wonder if these new chrome bumpers will be like that. I really considering biting the bullet on the ss ones. This is down the page. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116342-pics-of-the-new-black-dragon-eurojdm-style-no-holes-240z-bumpers-they-just-released/

If your stock tank is good, it's not that difficult to put the stock sx sump, pump and mounting ring in it. You would need to shorten the pump mount a bit but it worked out fine on mine. I left the stock gauge in too. Just a thought.

I'm sure interested also. I have to have some soon but have been debating the SS ones or these. I think I read on here a while back that the SS ones are super thin and easy to dent but I sure like the idea of no rust.

I measured straight out sideways from the front bottom a/c mounting hole on the engine and that point is 3.5 inches from the steering shaft. I can take a pic but it doesn't look like it will easily fit to me.

The Bilstein Rabbit shock wasn't too much more last time I bought a set and they will handle reasonable stiff spring rates. You might check them out.

I replaced the crank in an L28 NA the other day. It broke off just in front of the rear seal. It was making around 275 hp on 110. It also gets a good solid 8mpg or so on very expensive fuel. You might do some more research. An RB just doesn't have the aftermarket support of other engines and they are known to have other issues. I don't quite understand going to a longer heavier 2L when there are other options but just make sure of your direction and have at it. If you don't want an SR, you might consider a KADET.

Is that even possible? I'm thinking the water is going around the turbo center section but there is no way for it to get into the exhaust from there. It's not like the oil where seals seal it around the shaft. Better check the head gasket.

So, has anybody put one together without a gasket? I had trouble with a cork gasket and have considered just using "Great Stuff".

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/

So don't shorten a driveshaft and reuse it?? I have done it many times with no issue, as I believe have many others. Why not? Since the diff doesn't go up and down.........

If you want a diesel, how about a 4BTA Cummins? I put one in my Clark 664 skidder to replace a screaming jimmy and have loved it ever since. I would bet it is pretty heavy too though. Love my SR personally speeking. 30+mpg all the time and dyno'd 306whp.(happy dyno)

I'm running 17x8.5. +30 with small spacers and they work well if you are looking to put appropiate tires on them. I run 245 R1R's which are wider than normal street tires, with coilovers. There is actually more room in the front than the rear but both ends are covered and look great. The rears need the inside lip rolled a bit but nothing that shows. IMO I like the Enkie rpf1's so I built the car for them with big brakes and 5 lug but 15x8.5 should work even better. You might go wider on the rims but not the tires and still fit under, from my experience. Here is a pic from my Photobucket album but it doesn't show how much they stick out. IMG_Zcar0001.jpg - See more at: http://s582.photobucket.com/user/logrmyk/library/?sort=3&postlogin=true&page=1#sthash.kqt2336m.dpuf

Yes, you are(OP) missing a lot. What do you want? What can you do? What do you know? Do you really believe everything you see on the internet? The KA is 20% bigger with a long stroke. Yes, it can give you more torque after you do all that it takes to make that, rods, pistons, injectors, manifold, turbo, etc. The SR is a bolt in(sort of) solution with 275ish hp in stock form with stock reliability and drivability. The stock SR with a bigger turbo is ready for a lot more. It's easy. It revs to the sky and loves it. Leave it stock for a great driving experience. It will give you great mileage(30+), can go way too fast for a 40 year old car and runs like a stock modern car with tire burning power. A stock SR will give you more power than most people could ever use in a Z. It is plenty for autox, track days and many, many tickets. The KA, SR and L all weigh pretty much the same once installed with all the stuff needed. I really like my SR 240Z. It weighs 2300# and has 51% on the rear tires with me in it. It does everything I want but there are many ways to skin a cat. "Good judgement comes from experience and much experience comes from bad judgement." Got that from an old farmer. It's very true.

Is that jumble of words supposed to say something?

There must be an awful lot of lesbians in the world! ha,ha falling down laughing You were asking for that in capitol letters. Someone had to do it.

It depends, what color is your truck?

I thought it was only me not being able to find things here. Glad to see it isn't. Those search tips are nice. Not all of us grew up in the internet era and still learn things by the seat of our pants. I see Johns point. I just skip the posts I don't care about while the moderators need to read every one. It could get old. Realistically, how many completely new things are there on a 40 year old car though. It is more about what is interesting and cool. The same old basic stuff gets very repetitive. Don't know about an Automotive 101 here. Seems to me, this site is not about that. Let that be in wiki or .... This is the place to go to for the advanced and wild in the Z world. Let it be.