jacob80

Damn where did you get that!

Hey, Slave cylinder seems to be pissing fluid. Seems to be a stock non-adjustable slave cylinder. It's bolted up to a stock 73 4 speed. As far as getting a new one, is there any real upgrade or will the stock replacement do fine. Running an L28ET with heavy clutch to follow. Thanks. Jacob

Hello, Just as the thread title states. I have searched, but have not found much information. Many times I come across a site that talks about using them in 3.1 stroker applications. The only thing I can come up with is that they're maybe longer and therefor establish a higher compression ratio? And yes, I DID you the search function. Thanks! Jacob

Actually they look identical to my L24 ones And strangely, one of my L24 head bolts seems to only have one thread, as in you could only turn it 360 degrees at max, kind of strange if you ask me....

I did notice the firing order thing...you would think these things wouldn't be overlooked, especially in this case.

What's the difference here? Is there any way to distinguish between the two? Also, are there any differences between the washers? Thanks

Ok I ordered the Nissan head gasket and MSA 75-7 intake manifold gasket. Here is what it looked like when I pulled the manifolds off, which is where I'm at right now...

How bad is it to put the intake manifold heat shield back on an L28ET? The bolts were barely accessible when taking them off let alone putting them back on

Correct me if I'm wrong, but looking at the bottom of the intake manifold, there are 7 bolts holding on the dang head shield???? Also, am I supposed to fit a box end wrench into those little divets in the exhaust heat shield? Seems like quite the task if you ask me...

Bringing an old thread back...how many bolts attach the heat shield to the intake because i've removed four and it still wont budge! Additionally, do I have to remove the heat shield off the exhaust manifold to access all the bolts on the intake manifold? Its an L28ET

Ok so where do I jack up my engine when I want to change my oil pan gasket?

Please don't say that! That would be devastating!

EXACTLY my same problem. I, too was worried that it was the rear seal but I poked a q-tip up in the transmission hole where it would drain and didn't seem to find any oil on the end of it. I know its coming from the pan though because I can see the streaks! Grrr but just to confirm, but a nissan gasket, coat it with RTV, let sit for 24 hours before installing, enure mating surfaces are flat and clean, install and torque to spec, sound about right???

Alright well if I can, I'm going to drop that oil pan and put on a new gasket with a thin layer of RTV on the oil pan gasket surface and slap it on (a nissan gasket of course). Also, I'm running a silicon hose from the turbo drain to the oil pan and it keeps leaking between the barb fitting off the turbo and the hose. What do you guys use for your drain? Does yours ever leak??

The leak is coming from the rear passenger side

Really? Its an L28ET though, will that make any difference? I'm worried about clearing the pick up sump is all. Also, where is the point which you are jacking the engine up on??

Hey guys, Well we have just rebuilt our L28ET and we were going to try and do the oil pan right so it wouldn't leak and we wouldn't have to worry about it. So we went out and bought the MSA super duper gasket and pounded the mating surface of the oil pan flat from someone previously overtightening. We slapped on the gasket dry and torqued them all to 7 pounds (or whatever it is). With all this done, pretty much know its not going to leak, what do you know, voila: it leaks. VERY irritating knowing we did everything right just to see it leak. What do we do? Obviously I'll have to drop the front axle and change it but what can I do different to have a good seal? I'll probably get the nissan gasket this time, just to be sure. Thanks guys!

Ok so to disable all the features....how do I do that? Also, how am I going to start the car if the enrichments aren't enabled, do I just keep my foot on the gas until its warm?

Ok here is some progress, got the car to idle decently but it is soooo untuned right now, at the end of the video I said something about the coolant which may be but what I mean is that I think the coolant correction or some variable is changing and it just dies as you see. http://s617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jacob80a/?action=view&current=102_7842.flv

Quick question, Would this head gasket be suitable for an L28ET? http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt75036/pd1847007/DATSUN_L6_COPPER_HEADGASKETS_#IMAGES If so, should I get the 1.8mm or the 2.2mm thickness? Doesn't appear that 2mm is available. Thanks!

No it will idle I just need to smooth it out and lean it out cause its at like 10:1-9:1 :S

Ha, love it!

Hey guys, Ok so i've had a base setup on my L28ET but I just corrected all my timing and am starting all over. It runs with the approximate tune on it but obviously thats not going to cut it. Last night, I attempted to tune the idle with no luck. I tried scaling my cranking pulse widths at the different temperatures like the tuning manual inside the megamanual told me, and I also attempted to tune my warm up, after start, and idle but got no where. If someone could help me on my feet it would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Here is my setup: 1973 240z running surge tank setup L28ET Pallnet fuel rail Bosch 42lb 440cc injectors (low impedence) Stock intake manifold Stock turbo/boost (7psi) Front mount intercooler Rebuilt long block Fidanza flywheel Performance products pulley 280zx alternator Greddy Type RS blow off valve MSD Blaster 2 coil Magnacore wires Megasquirt 1 V3 board running MSnS-E Stock 83 distributor Kameari high pressure oil pump Iridium plugs I think that about completes our setup. I've set all my basic parameters yada yada yada and my Req_Fuel is 7. So if any of you guys could give me a hand to get me on the road I will praise you. Its starting to get cold and I would like to get these floors welded in before winter. Thanks a lot guys.

So the req fuel won't necessarily be what is calculated by inputting your injectors sizes and all that?

Ok so I finally got my timing sorted out. The lights on the ECU box werent coming on so I just locked down the distributor where the pump pump primed when I turned it. Apparently, it did the trick because it is spot on. Now to tune it, which I am having trouble keeping it running but hopefully I'll be able to figure it out. You guys have any advice on the tuning procedure, mainly establishing a good idle? It seems like if I don't feather on the gas it tries to stay alive then just quits when it feels like it but if I do stay on the gas it'll stay running for a little bit then just stumble and quit because I think I am dumping too much fuel.