jacob80

Would you ever consider renting that out so our machinist can hone it with that on it? I believe it will bolt up to an L series engine. Of course it is not necessary, but these practices are what seperate good from great engines.

Hey guys, been reading up on using a torque plate to simulate a cylinder head being torqued down on the block to simulate the distortion while honing. We did find one, but costs $900! Does anyone have an alternative that is just as effective or possibly a torque plate that someone wouldn't mind renting out

One question. I know that 2 wire sensors are much better than one wires, so would the head temp sensor threaded into the head work better with megasquirt than the one-green wired sensor on the thermostat housing?

Also, if you dont have an EFI fuel tank, you may want to have a surge tank made.

Can anybody confirm this?

And just to confirm it, the distributor is the tach input on pin 15 on the relay board, correct?

Hmmm...not sure what a jp2 is, or why I need another terminal strip if I already have one on the relay board. Also, isn't power on the jnjecyirs only hot when they are fired? Also, what is a calibration switch?

alright, I think I've got everything down. How can I pull power from the relay board for the dizzy? Is there a pin that isn't labeled that is a 12v source when the key is on on the relay board? I figured the switched 12v that was used to supply power through the ballast resistor on the old setup could be used as the switched 12v source on the diagram and wouldn't that supply power for the dizzy as well since it T's off one of the distributor's wires? Thanks again guys!

This will work, right? http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062343 Correct me if im wrong, but it goes like this: Switched 12v----------1/4w 1k resistor---------then where?

Ok, so that "pullup" resistor is the one that T's off the wire that goes from the distributor to the relay board, correct?

Will an MSD Blaster 2 coil be sufficient? Also, where does the ballast resistor play into the new wiring, or does it? I know I will need a 1k ballast resistor, but what is the old one?

Anyone?...

Anyone who knows anything about these head gaskets, your help would be much appreciated!

Hey guys, just a quick question. I know the service manual says not to use sealant, but does this apply to the Kameari head gasket? I ask this because we put it on once and had to pull of the head again and am making sure that we can or cannot possibly because we used a little copper spray on the gasket. If not, can the gasket be cleaned with laquer thinner? I tried it a little bit and the copper crap comes right off but take the dark color of the gasket off and reveals shininess. Is this ok? Thanks!

Ok, well my question is can I use my stock ballast resistor off our 240z? It looks like it T's off the wire from the wire that runs from the distributor to the relay board....I know that there is a switched 12v source on the car now that goes directly to the resistor, so I assume I can just put a wire on the other end of the resistor and T into the relay board to distributor wire, correct? I think I'm making this harder than it has to be....just basically follow the diagram. I just want to see if the stock ballast resistor on our 240z works. Thanks, without you guys, I would be nowhere, I am very appriciative for what you guys do, and I owe it to you guys, thanks a lot.

Ok, so only three of four will need to be connected in my case, correct? The green/black to the relay board, the black to a ground, and the black with white to a constant 12v source? Will a wire directly off the battery be sufficient to the distributor?

Well apparantly they are internationally out of stock or some bs, so we're having to use the stock bolt. Did you use the stock key and snout when putting on your powerforce? We are, and we must have got the bad batch of pulleys.

Also, fast idle is not necessary, correct? Just an accessory, correct?

Also, where can I find the appropriate resistor? Will the stock due fine? If not, can someone link me to one? Thanks again guys!

I know we will be using the board to trigger, it is modified accordingly. That being said, where will the other wires off the distributor go since we're not using the GM HEI module?

Not for sure, I've read a lot of other people having problems with the inside diameter of the pulley being to small and the key not sizing up to the pulley right. Not for sure, just ended up being a big waste of time, so we will probably just put on the stock one.

Why would someone use the HEI if they could just use the distributor? And yes, we will be sticking with megasquirt 1 pcb 3.0 and MSnS. Also, what is the "extra" in MSnS-E<

Hey guys, just wondering if you guys know where we can get a key for the crankshaft. I'm talking about the little piece that holds the crank pulley in place. I cannot seem to find it anywhere, so just let me know if you guys know where I can find one, thanks!

Thank you, but half of those letters I can't even read let alone know what they mean, and I thought I didn't need the GM HEI "thing" (I don't even know what it is used for) since I have the 83 turbo distributor? I am running megasquirt 1 pcb 3.0 with megasquirt 'n spark

Ok, finally an update with picture for those of you who are keeping track The other weekend, we got the engine pulled out. The whole process took us about four hours tops. Here are some pictures: Ok, now get this. The next day, we decided to put on our new Performance harmonic balancer (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM06/10-2139). We read that it was a tight fit, so proceeded with this in mind. We began installation and it didn't seem to move much at all when applying a mallet to it. So after that, we decided to use a block and ball peen hammer pretty deliberately. That, too was not working well, so we decided to thread in the bolt and us ean air gun. Slowly but surely the pulley went on, but, this was a "thats not coming off for a while" kind of situation. But, something did not seem right because we marked the key on the end of the crank so we could line it up while installation. After it was done, it was slightly off, which was a little concerning, but it worked. So, later that night, my father was curious about the end play on the crank shaft because after installation was complete, we noticed an in-and-out play in the crank. So my father did a little measuring and of course there was too much play. There was only one option: new bearings. Obviously, while hitting on the pulley the thrust bearing was crushed. Well, without futher ado, here is the pulley after we pulled it off. Lets just say, that isn't supposed to be like that But, we've learned from it. Now, let the disassembly begin: New main bearings: We are now waiting on rod bearing and we thought hey, if we're going to go this far we might as well put new rings in it. So, we are also waiting for our chrome rings to arrive. Other than that...there isn't much else. We are still in the process of fabricating a surge tank and installing megasquirt. We're also waiting for injectors for our application. Other than that, there isn't much else. Here are some other parts we've recieved in the mean time: That is only a couple of the parts, we have a lot of new stock stuff, such as a gear reduction starter and alternator. But I'll keep you boys posted. Let me know what you think!