jacob80

Hey guys, This past weekend, I attended the Midwest Z Fest and had an absolute blast! Unfortunately, I was experiencing some vibrations at higher speeds and I want to say I have a bad CV axle, but would like to confirm it with you guys. Here are the symptoms: 1) Vibration at higher speeds 2) Metallic clicking noise under mid-high acceleration. The only way I could describe this is if you were touching a screwdriver to the spokes of a fast moving bicycle wheel. I went ahead and pulled the axles and checked my wheel bearings, but there didn't appear to be any kind of grinding/scraping of any kind either in the bearings or in the CV axle joints. I'm scared because I'm using the VLSD from an '88 SS Z31 and I KNOW it is going to be tough to find these axles. Other than this, the car ran PHENOMENALLY and handled very well. I would really appreciate the help guys, I would like to get out on the track at least one more time before winter. Thank you HybridZ!

The water pump had never been changed, and we were told that the motor had 70k miles, so I figured why not. That water pump actually seemed perfectly functional and the impellers were not corroded in any way, nor was it leaking. I just replaced it for good measure. I may or may not have the puking over problem, but I do know that every time I go to check my radiator fluid level, its always a little lower than I checked it to be before. Perhaps that issue is gone now, but I contacted MSA yesterday because I'm using their aluminum Afco radiator and they didn't have any higher pressure radiator caps (grr!). The cap on there now is a 13psi, but if I'm not seeing temps over 186 fahrenheit, do you think I'll be fine without? Do you have any insight as to why the rust monster is taking a dump in my radiator?

Can you say... TOMMY LEE JONES! Oh, and here is the finished project. Doesn't look too good in my opinion.

I have an HY35 sitting on the shelf for my next motor. I would assume the banjo bolt for this unit will also be 12x1.5, correct? This will be a good source of information. I've talked with a member on here and he put down 415hp on a customer car with a custom cam and an HY35.

WOW! Distilled water/water wetter mixture did it for me! I cannot believe how well that worked. I never saw a temperature over 186 while driving! I've never had something work so well for me! Granted I did put a new water pump on, I believe that I had some bad coolant. It was brown! I'm not sure why the coolant is getting so brown, I'm almost positive its rust, but man, I can't get rid of it! It has a sulfur smell to it and stains things if you spill it and let it dry, very odd. I also noticed that my water was pretty dang clean right up until the thermostat opened. I had the cap off burping the system and I could see almost all the way down to the bottom of the end tank, but when that thermostat opened up, it went completely rust color and I couldn't see anything (yuck!). Is this a problem, or something that is expected? We had the block hot tanked, but I'm not sure how good of a job they did because when we got it back, the coolant passages were still rusty At any rate, its staying cool and I 100% recommend a distilled water/water wetter mixture!

Hmm, this is tough... If I had a dream Hybrid, it would have to be a Hakosuka... ...with an RB26

There is a long thread with details about the issues with Modern Motorsports, but I was able to communicate with them great (answered the next day).

I would do the hood trick, except for the fact that mine is missing! I will be putting water/water wetter mix without any glycol as I just want to have temps down for the Midwest Z Fest track day on Friday. I'm not worried about cold temperatures at this point in time. I'll have to check and see what my radiator cap rating is. You would recommend a 24psi cap?

I'm hearing a lot about tracks not liking coolant being used anyways, its said to be very difficult to clean up. I'm going to go ahead and try using a bottle of water wetter and distilled water and see what that does for me. I'll report back my findings and let you guys know.

Also, I have just done some research and will most likely be using distilled water with water wetter in the radiator, hopefully this will bring down the temperatures some.

So basically just dump a bottle of water wetter in and fill the rest with straight water? If this works, this will be AWESOME!

No I do not, I'm not sure what that is? Let me research!

Datalog: http://www.mediafire...nugjozgtfzzuocm

Hey guys, I'm a little worried about my temperatures, I hit 228 and I wasn't absolutely beating the living hell out of the car, just some hard pulls on the highway, mostly cruising though. Its as if once the temp goes up, it doesn't want to come down until I stop and let it idle and come down. Getting ready for a track day and want to see if I can either A) Bring down the temperatures somehow or B ) Confirm that these temperatures aren't threatening to the integrity of the engine. The car runs PHENOMINALLY! The only complaint I MAY have is that it feels pretty flat up top towards the 5k-7k rpm range, but nothing out of the ordinary per say. The one thing I do notice that might be causing overheating is the timing advance at cruise, which is around 31 degrees. I may or may not be on the right track, but other than that, I'm not sure what else to suspect. Datalog: http://www.mediafire.com/?nugjozgtfzzuocm MSQ: http://www.mediafire.com/?2e9u6m7bg2g3d7g I would REALLY appreciate it if I could get a response soon, the track event is on Friday. I'm contemplating installing my new water pump, I still have the stocker '83 on there and it sounds as if its starting to chirp just a little bit. Thanks again guys!

Hey guys, I sure beat the heck out of my car and got up to a temperature of 228, I'm a little worried. What kind of temp should I see on the track with my turbo motor? I'm really afraid these temps are too high and I don't want to damage anything on track day. The car runs great, just very worried about coolant temps. Thanks!

Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs on ground control coilovers.

Alright, well it sounds like they'll work, but just barely. Thankfully I have an LSD and coilovers so that's my saving grace!

Well that's no good, I just picked up a set of Konig Rewinds 14x7s at track wheel with the tires I listed...damn.

what size of tire would you use on a 14x7 as an alternative?

Let's say, for instance, 300hp.

Hey guys, I'm sure this will mostly personal preference, but what is a good sized wheel/tire combonation for an S30? We just picked up a set of Konig 14x7 Rewinds with 205/55/14 Nitto NT01 slicks. Will this be enough for a track wheel? Thanks!

Not necessarily, every other manual transmission car that I have driven behaves very similarly, my Z is different from anything...

Yes.

Flywheel was bought brand new, and I had it resurfaced once and he just barely skimmed it. Here is a model representation of my clutch behaivor. "+" will represent the point in which the clutch engages. ":" will represent the clutch travel As an example, I will illustrate my Subaru clutch: Subaru: Floor ::::::::::::::::::++++++++++ End of throw 240z Floor::++::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: End of throw This should make clear to you that the clutch is engaging EARLY and HARD. I do keep in mind that this is a 6 puck sprung unit, but man, it engages hard and is not forgiving (unlike my subaru)!