jacob80

Does anybody have any input on this subject? If nothing else, everything will be coming apart, inspected, cleaned/repacked, and put back together.

I've got this stuff on my skin plenty of times. Don't expect it to come off any time soon!

My vote is for the Rota Grid Vs. I like them because they look a lot like the TE37-V's

No, I have not. I simply saw that this was potentially a product of Rota and could be a topic of discussion on this forum. I'm only basing my information off of that thread and the posts included.

Source: http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=45651 Photo: I'm pretty excited about these if they really are coming to the market. I'd like to hear from you guys considering S30's rock the Wats pretty commonly.

Bringing this thread back quick. In conclusion, what is the best upgrade for a 240z as far as the brake booster and master cylinder?

Thats a good point. I guess I raised the question because I would really like something really tough like that on top of my POR-15 as well, but this keeps me from it. Great build by the way, this thing is going to be a freaking beast.

Are you not worried about water collecting between the undercoating and POR-15? I did the exact same thing as you with the POR-15, but I haven't yet applied and other coating on top of it. One smalled break in the undercoating and it could be disasterous. I have a small spot where the POR-15 didn't apply well and it made a little caccoon for water to suspend in. I like the idea of a tough bed liner, but not if there is a chance of potential rust starting underneath, no way jose. At this point, I'd rather throw another coat of POR-15 on the bottom and be able to see the rust/paint bubbling/break in the paint rather than have a nice little surprise two years down the road. I forgot to mention I just had brand new floor pans from Zed Findings installed, that is why I painted the bottom of the car.

I do not believe so. There is a writeup floating around somewhere that goes through the process with photos and everything.

This is awesome John, that would be a great solution to this problem. Also, I know this is a little away from what we've been discussing and you guys most likely already know about it, but Techno Toy Tuning also offers a full up rear end conversion that gets rid of the stub axles (weak point) and allows you to run all kinds of CV axles and differential from donor cars which include the S13, S14, S15, R32, R34, Z32, Z32TT and Q45. Of course, this isn't a lightweight upgrade such as the Z31T CV axles, but it is an option, and a wise one if you were to ask me. You would have no problem finding axles this way. Rear End Conversion information: http://technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=863

Hey guys, Well, here is my issue. Last fall, I performed the following: 1) Repacked rear wheel bearings 2) Installed 280z 27 spline stub axles & Modern Motorsport Z31 adapter flanges 3) Installed VLSD R200 and VLSD Z31 Turbo Axles 4) Installed on Tyler Differential Mount 5) Installed AZC Mustache bar and Uprights What better way to test this out than a good ole' fashion track day? So I did just that, I attended the Midwest Z Fest. Well, as I roared around the track all day, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Granted the car did vibrate just a touch, but I didn't notice it over the open down pipe all day. As the day came to a close and I left the track, it wasn't until then I noticed something was wrong. As I closed my cutout valve, I really noticed a vibration that was not there before. Along with this, I noticed I had a nasty metallic clicking noise under heavy acceleration. I was able to get the car home, but I was very worried I significantly screwed something up. Now, fast forward to this week. This is the first I've had the chance to take the rear end apart. I just dropped everything off the car tonight and am just beginning my diagnosis process. I just need a little advice from you guys as far as key signs and symptoms I should be looking for. I'm trying to figure out where this vibration and clicking sound is coming from. Here is a crappy little video I made, its not much, but you get the idea. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

This is interesting. I would think if you've got a big alternator, you would see voltage in the mid to upper 13s. Where are you tapping power for your Megasquirt from?

This will be very helpful, thanks Matt!

I have been running Megasquirt 1, but I just picked up a MS2 daughter board and will be running that from now on. I bet the porting could make 400, but I'll save that for a later date. I'm on a tight budget! I'm not sure if it will help or not, but the stock intake runners are of smaller diameter than the head ports, and once I measured the runners on the Lonewolf intake, I realized that they do actually match the inside diameter of the ports in the head, so maybe with the bigger intake manifold and my minor porting on my exhaust manifold, I can get right under 400. We'll see though, it'll be fun regardless. Photos to follow tonight!!

Will somebody please clarify the best way to re-apply the stock Nissan head gasket, or any head gasket that is steel for that matter? Tony, it looks like Hylomar is silicon-based, are you saying smear this stuff on your gasket?

Update: Tonight I plan on pulling the head and installing my ARP head studs. I'm also going to inspect the cylinders for anything out of the ordinary. Additionally, while I have the head off, I'm going to port match it with my Lonewolf intake manifold to get the best flow possible for my Holset. My goal is 400hp once I get an Isky cam, but I'm shooting for 350hp with my stock cam on the stock bottom end for now. Photos to follow, ztay tuned!

Hey fellas, I figure I should make progress thread to keep track of what I'm doing. Here are a couple of photos to get started, just mounted my Holset to my manifold along with my external wastegate. I went ahead and welded the adapter to the manifold, I don't plan on running a different setup anyways, but if I do, I have another manifold. I rebuilt the HOlset (even though it probably didn't need it) and the motor has recently been rebuilt, as well. I'm using a -4 AN oil feed line with an .059 oil restrictor and the stock Nissan oil drain tube. Ztay tuned! .

Thats right, Tony. Now to find someone to let me borrow their tube bender and stainless steel 37* flaring tool!

Bringing this topic back up... ...I'm going to route a 4' run of braided stainless steel line straight to the HY35 off the stock oil distibution block oil feel port on the passenger side. What are the thread on the port? I would like to convert it to an to have a nice AN oil feel line with female connectors on both ends. Also, is it safe to have a straight run of line, or do I need some kind of restictor? How about a filter? Thanks.

Plans have changed a tad bit. I came across Rossman's thread and decided to pick up a 20' stick of 304SS 3/8" OD tubing for a whopping $22! That's a steal if you ask me. My plan is to run the return and feed in this size down the main stretch of the body, flare the ends, and attach female AN fittings and run braided stuff to my tank and fuel rail. Boom.

That would be preferable, but I don't think the stock fuel line diameter is adequate. I'm looking to pump out about 500 hp someday. I think I may just run the braided stainless steel lines. Someone tell me if this is really a poor decision.

This is what I was afraid of, damn regulations! I rang Earl's and explained to the gentleman on the phone what I was trying to do, and he assured me that running Speed Flex line would be fine, but made no mention of regulations, rules, etc. This car will primarily be a weekend warrior and go on the occasional track day. Aside from the NHRA, is there any reason I shouldn't go with full up braided lines? I'm not opposed to running stainless steel lines, I just read so many horror stories of how much of a pain in the butt it is (kinking, etc). With a 240z, would to be possible to simply pull out the stock line that runs the length of the body, bend up a line to essentially duplicate it, and throw it in? I would be installing AN fittings on the ends and running flexible line to the tank and the fuel rail (short runs, of course). Thanks!

Hey fellas, I've dropped an L28ET into my car and bought the ATL black box to convert my fuel tank to a fuel cell. Now, the next step in the process is to bend new lines (3/8" = -6 AN) and drop them in. My question: What line material/fuel lines should I use (include brand, source, etc) because I have run into some hard lines that if you try to bend them, they will collapse at the bend and are then useless. Also, would it be a bad idea to run braided stainless steel instead of hard lines? I know hard lines are preferrable, but are they absolutely necessary? Would this tubing do the job?: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VRI0UM/sr=1-12/qid=1308583547/ref=pop?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1308583547&sr=1-12 Your help is appreciated. Thanks guys.

I'm bumping this. I'm right in the middle of the shaving/wiring tuck/minimalistic look/process. In the end, I want to "float" the engine (as they say).

That is a great price, good work! As for the pricey downpipe, I believe it justifies ATP's quality of work. All of their stuff looks to be of very good quality.