jacob80

Hey guys, Right now, I have a VLSD R200 with CV shafts in my 240z and I know the CV shafts are specific to this rear end. For good measure, I would like to have an extra rear end on hand, but I'm not sure how hard it would be considering these rear ends do not show up much. My question is: will the internals from a short nose swap into this unit? I know the pinion on the long nose is longer, so if anything happened to the pinion, could I steal one from an open R200 from any 280z R200? Also, what about my CV shafts? If the LSD unit were to go, and I wanted to replace them, would I have to get matching CV shafts again? (say I swapped in 300zx VLSD internals). Just thinking for the future. Thanks guys!

I was told by John C. that certain events call for certain wheel size and he mentioned that SCCA ITS calls for a 15x7 size wheel. I also do not want to roll the fenders, so the decrease in width will help me accomplish that.

Thanks! The car will be a weekend warrior/track car. We will be installing camber plates eventually, but I've revised my thinking. For the track, we will be using Diamond Racing Pro 15" wheels (15x7, 0 offset, 3.5" backspacing) with 225/50/15 tires and HOPEFULLY that'll clear the fender and help us to avoid rolling the fenders (which I REALLY do not want to do!). As for the wheels now, I think we'll deal with it until we install some camber plates OR we will need to go with a 45 series tire. The Eastwood fender roller will be at my doorstep tomorrow, I'm glad I've decided not to roll the fenders!

Okay guys, I have some news. I took a video of my rear end with my car up on jack stands. Here it is: It looks like my rear cover is not secured tight enough to my mustache bar. My question is, do YOU think its wiggling around too much? I need to drop the rear end anyways to inspect it, change the cover gasket, and figure out why my rear cover isn't staying snug to the mustache bar. Let me know what you guys think. Perhaps this could be the cause of my clunk noise after all! Thanks!

That's the thing, its hard to simulate that unless you're actually on the track. So many variables! It looks like it'll clear well if I just roll that inside lip. We'll see though. I guess I'm just going to go ahead and roll them.

Not much (if any), it is very close.

What do you mean by warp? Will I be able to notice this? The lip will be rolled up inside, so if that part is warped, it shouldn't matter, correct? I REALLY want to be careful not to have paint crack or mess up the quarters in any way. Do you track your car? This will be a car that will be on the track, so I want to make sure it won't rub at all.

Alright guys, Tonight, I went ahead and brought the car down some more so that you can get a better idea of where I am in relation to the tire. It seems as though the passenger side quarter isn't in the same spot as the driver side, but I do know they are not original fenders, so I'm not surprised. Here you go! In the last photo, you can tell where the lip is contacting the tire surface. Tires are Kuhmo Ecsta 225/50/16 0 offset Personally, I want to say they will fit, but I have zero experience with tire fitment and these will be my first.

I'm having a local guy look at it tomorrow to get his opinion as to whether or not he thinks it'll help. To me, it looks so close, like it will work if I just roll that inner lip. I DO NOT want to, by any means, flare the fenders with the tool. I do have a question though: Does sitting in the car/pushing down on the back of the car have the same effect on wheel as if I was going around a corner at the track? What I'm trying to do is perhaps sit in the car and have someone push down on the back bumper and see if I can squat it down enough to be able to tell if it will clear. At the same time, I'm not sure if this would duplicate the type of squatting of the car/rolling of the car as if I was going around a hard turn. Just trying to make sure things will clear!

Very interesting, thanks for that info! IIRC, offset the the relation of the center of the rim to the center of the hub, correct?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130419421795&viewitem= They are listed as 4x114.3 and according to this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/5051-72-240z-bolt-pattern-and-wheel-and-tire-sizes/ 4x4.5 = 4x114.3 It seems pretty obvious that they will work, its just that I have never seen these wheels on an S30 which makes me question whether or not they will work. Thanks guys!

Hey guys, Well I finally got around to dropping my 240z just a tad bit so I don't look like a monster truck (hehe ), but now I'm running into the problem I've always had, but I think I'm close to beating it. I am running 16x8 225 tires on the front and rear. As far as I can tell, the fronts clear fine, no issues. The back is another story. It looks like if I just roll my fenders a little bit, I could fit them, but I'm not 100% sure. I DO NOT want ZG flares, I would kill myself for cutting these beautiful quarters. Do you guys think if I rolled the fenders, these tires will fit? Here is the stance I'm looking for: Here is where I'm at: Thanks guys!

I used a collar from a 280z i believe, I have a thread floating around her somewhere that i went through the whole process of picking the right one. I'll find it when im back on my computer.

Stock master cylinder. I used the throw out bearing from the clutch kit (ACT G6 6 puck sprung disk).

Thats a Fairlady grill? Interesting. Are you sure thats not just an aftermarket piece?

John, Good to hear that from you. What kind of temperatures would you expect me to see on the track? I'm holding off on the Midwest Z Fest track registration (which I hope you all are attending)until I know my temps will behave. Thanks!

I think this is the best one yet. I was just at a car show this weekend and had 2+ people say this to me!

Hey guys, bringing this back to life. My car is running phenominally! I've been watching my temperatures and here is what I've gathered: Right now, I have an L28ET with the stock '73 4 speed and a 300zx 3.7 R200. On the highway, I cruise anywhere from 3100rpm to 3300rpm (which seems high for me, but its probably my gearing). At ~83* fahrenheit outside temperature, I peaked a temperature of 197* after a 25 miles drive while not beating up on it. I came to a stop and attempted to let the coolant temperatures come down from 197*, but after about 4 or 5 minutes, the temperature held steady at 197* and I was forced to shut down (late for work). Is this acceptable? Like I said, this is a stock L28ET with an MSA aluminum radiator, front mount intercooler, and no oil cooler and running some crappy O'Reillys oil (just finishing up break in, will be converting to synthetic this next oil change). Thanks guys!

Bad muffler bearings will get you good. Where can i get more? At any rate, the main concern with this decel pops is my turbine wheel.

Good luck buying one. The only thing I can think of that you could buy in stainless steel is called a "scotty" downpipe, which are almost non-existant on the market. Your best bet would be to have a fab. shop make one for you. You may also want to check Motorsport (www.thezstore.com), they offer a fairly cheap downpipe. Good luck!

Hey guys, Well I have installed an ACT sprung 6 puck clutch behind my L28ET utilizing the stock 240z 4 speed transmission (rebuilt). Ever since I've installed it, I've always wanted to adjust the clutch, but it seems as though that is not an option. The rod coming from the clutch master cylinder is threaded, and the pedal is all the way at the end of the threads. The issue is that when engaging the clutch, it engages RIGHT at the beginning of the throw (barely lifting the pedal off the floor). Is this normal for this clutch, or is there any way to adjust it so that it engages towards the end of the throw? Like I said, the pedal is at the very end of the threaded rod coming from the master cylinder, so I cannot run the pedal down the threads or I won't be able to engage/disengage the clutch. Thanks guys!

I have one of those rails on my '72 240z bumper, but obviously my bumper is different than yours. It looks like someone took one of these rails from a '72 and put it on that bumper. I may be wrong, though.

Hey guys, Well I've been running out L28ET 240z with our 280zx 60 amp alternator for about a year and a half now. I've just rewired Megasquirt and for some reason, I was looking down at the plug (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4067) and noticed that it had a melted hole in it from the diode overheating! This may or may not be relaed, but this is the issue. First off, an overheating diode had clearly failed, I get that. For the tach to work, I connected the two wires that we on opposite side of the ballast resistor together and put the B/W wire on the positive lead. This was all fine and dandy until: A) I realized the lead that goes to the + side of my coil is a 12v switched source, thus giving power to my fuel pump at all times (NOT good)the key was on and causing a no-spark condition. After I turn off the key, the car would stay running with this lead on the + post of the coil. Occasionally, the car would turn off by itself by blowing the fuel pump fuse on the relay board (I've had this fuse problem before whenever I would kill the car by fault of my own). Are both of these issues potentially related to the diode failure? IIRC, the diode is indeed to prevent the car from continuing to run after the key has been switched off. Thanks guys! This is the plug in the link:

Why do you need an LSD? What is the car built for, street? Track? Drag? The Nissan R200's have been known to be very strong. I was told that they've used the R200 in a 9 second car. The R200 will be MUCH easier than the Q45 short nose, and much more inexpensive! You will need the mustache bar from the car and may have to flip the differential crossmember for fitment, but otherwise, its a bolt in application. I am using a VLSD R200 with 300zx CV axles and MM adapter/27 spline 280z stub axles.

So there is essentially two parts to the cable: The outer sleeve The inner cable You're saying the inner cable was down in the sleeve too far, correct? At the transmission end, the cable looks like a +. I made sure the ears were inserted into the slot correctly, but maybe its TOO far into the transmission..? Would it be a good idea to take an electric drill, chuck up the transmission end of the cable and let 'er rip and see if my speedo reads anything? I've thought about doing this, just wanted a little confirmation that I'm not going to ruin anything. Thanks!!