jacob80

I need to get my hands on one of these engines.

Good evening all, I wanted to touch base with all of you regarding Megasquirt 2 and its capabilities, requirements, and this TunerStudio deal I knew nothing about. Now, I will say, I haven't done tons of research, and it is all very scattered, so I am still working up the courage to culminate information from MSExtra, here, and other various websites. But, in the mean time and between time, I'm going to post a couple questions for you guys here. First off, as far as installing the Megasquirt 2 daughter board, I've read mixed things about whether there are wiring requirements. Is it just a plug and play application, or do I need to wire a +12V source for this stepper motor controller? What have you guys done in the past? Before I get too far, I will say that this is a V3.0 board that was previously utilizing the BIP373 ignition module. Also, I'm reading that I can no longer use MegaTune and that I must switch to TunerStudio if I want to run MSExtra for Megasquirt 2? Is this true? I'm not opposed to it, as long as it is just as intuitive, but it is definitely something I am not used to. Thanks for your help boys.

Here is a picture of the stock trigger wheel if anyone needs it for reference:

I think wasted spark will be more than sufficient for my application. I already have a Ford EDIS coil pack, so that may be easier to implement rather than trying to configure 6 individual coils that I won't even begin to utilize. Using this wheel, Megasquirt can recognize engine position more effectively and, assuming your MS2 box is setup for wasted spark, can fire my three coils at the correct time? Is there anything I am missing here?

I would check your timing, first. Make sure your idle advance matches what your Megatune is telling you it sees. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so, keep an eye on that. It doesn't sound like you're going lean, but just to be safe, monitor the gauge value at that point. If all of those check out ok, check your spark map (if applicable). Good luck.

Just saw this, sorry John! I guess I'm a little confused regarding your idea. Would 4 pieces make up one insulator?

You're not going to be able to use those fitting at the top of the cap, they won't be accessible once you put your tank up. Instead, plug those at the top of the cap and run AN hardware where your stock feed and return lines were. Then, route your feed to one of those AN fitting to go to your fuel rail and just have the return dump somewhere into the tank. Voila. But yes, very nice!

Hey guys, I recently painted my engine bay with POR 15 and plan to leave it black until I have all the components installed. I then plan to pull it out and paint it body color thereafter. The engine bay will be black until I gather enough funds to have it sprayed body color. This would be all fine and dandy, however, I've noticed that, since POR 15 is UV sensitive, the paint has become inconsistent. Some parts are streaky flat black and some are gloss and quite honestly, it looks like crap. So, my question is: What is an affordable top coat paint that I can put over my POR 15 until I have body color sprayed?

I haven't conducted heavy research, but what specifically would be required to run a Coil on Pack setup using the stock L28ET dizzy equipped with this wheel using MS2? Would you need to have a dual wheel setup, or will the single wheel in the dizzy suffice?

Hey, If anyone has 6 of these, I'm interested. Just reply to this thread. Thanks.

So you're saying that the baffle is not fixed to the bottom of the tank? Considering this, is it necessary that I build trap doors into the stock baffle, or will the trap doors on my black box suffice?

Hey guys, So I put my tank under the knife this weekend and I cannot seem to figure out how in the world the fuel from the driver side baffle compartment reached the pick up tube in stock form? I'm currently working on installing an ATL Black Box, and I want to make sure I do this right. I plan to install trap doors in the following locations: I am doing this so that the fuel from the passenger side of the tank will be able to reach my pump. Does this look like the right thing to do to you guys? Also, I used to only be able to fill my fuel tank up half way, and I assume this was a result of us not having the stock venting system implemented. I only have the one port on the top of the tank toward the back of the car (see picture below, it is the tube on the left hand side on the top of the tank) to vent. Should I try to run a tube from this spot to the filler neck and call it good, or is there more involved here? All other ports are unavailable (either used or closed off). Thanks guys!

Matt, can I preorder one of these? Really excited to utilize this setup.

Interested! How soon could you get a run of these? Put my name on the list, EDIS!

This is awesome! I'm happy to see that you have successfully solved your problem. The moral of the story here is to never trust electrical connections. Check, double check, and triple check!

This reminds me of a couple months ago where I broke off a stud that fastens the turbo to the manifold. Better yet, I thought using an easy out on a drill press would be an awesome idea. That was one of the biggest mistakes I've made in my time working on automotives. I was told I was SOL and that only a machinist could help me dig out the cobalt bit that was broken off in my stud, which was stuck in the exhaust manifold. I was determined, however, and decided to strap the manifold onto my drill press and use a lot of oil and time. This task required a couple DeWalt cobalt drill bits, about 6 hours of drill time, and a lot of patience. I didn't think I was going to get through the cobalt bit but when I did, GREAT SUCCESS! From there on, drilling through the steel was like drilling through butter. The best feeling was when I stuck my easy out through the hole I had drilled through the stud and applying such small torque, it simply came loose.

For low impedance injectors, you must run resistors in series or utilize Pulse Width modulation (PWM). Impedance is equivalent to DC resistance. If you don't have enough resistance to maintain a reasonable current flow, current will flow so fast that, yes, you will heat up your injectors to the point of failure. I haven't dealt with EDIS all that much, but I just thought I would give my input.

This is so impressive. Thank you for sharing this.

My jaw just dropped. You don't mess around, do you?

Update: From the sounds of it, these are supposed to drop October 2011.

I was thinking how the angle of the motor would probably end up making it just about parallel to the ground. I could cut and re-weld the tube, but I'm using a MIG welder and it gets ugly. If it came down to it, I could make it happen.

Wow, this is awesome, looks good buddy!

My dear friends, I have started a blog to record all of my progress on my car. I decided that I want a dedicated webpage for this, so here it is: http://jacob80a.wordpress.com/ Enjoy!

Perhaps you could try setting a fixed timing at 20 ish degrees and see what you come up with, just to get a reference of what is going on. I forget which menu this is under... Are your MAP readings reasonable?