Tony D

@ Clarkspeed, "For the most part, materials, processes, and quality are on par with anyone else in the world, but you have to commit considerable resources to get it. Well defined specs are necessary. And companies like GE assign their engineers to stay there and work the technical problems." You just said exactly what I did. Your observations are no different than mine, nor from the book mentioned above. Unless you have considerable resources there to monitor EVERY facet of production, you will get a great batch initially to hook you into a contract and they will screw you with 'cost down' and argue specifications every step of the way. 2012 is within "the last 10 years". We have had a major manufacturing presence in China since 1990.

I tapped mine using a standard tap and a 4" crescent wrench to drive it. in fact, since the nut plate 'floats' in there, once I got the tap started i angled it inboard for clearance and was actually tapping into the nut plate about 60 degree angle from the centre of the tunnel. Not straight up from the bottom. If I wasn't so cheap, I would have bought a proper tap extension to do it with the tap handle. Then again, with all the 8-point sockets in a Craftsman Set, one fits taps so any ratchet and extension would do the trick... @Seattlejester, I have been called into shops for broken taps on expensive heads. You want to talk about the look of amazement "Where is the old broken tap?" (Grind-Grind-Grind WHACK!) "Got a Magnet?" Three Guys with wide eyes just dumbfounded they had not considered doing it themselves! LOL NOW TO THE ISSUE AT HAND: You have drilled the hole oversize for an M8 bolt. Now you either use the Helicoil tap (which is around an M10) and shoot a helicoil in there using the above suggestions for tap extensions or working in confined spaces, or you get an M10 bolt and put those threads in there and use a bolt one size up. Why be limited to an M8? You can still tap this as a piece of cake. Do not EVER chuck a tap in a cordless drill. NEVER EVER... That is how you end up with shattered taps stuck in nut plates.

"I don't want to give up and sell or part out my car. I'veinvested too much money to let this project go. " CORRECTION: You SPENT too much. You did not "Invest" anything. Dighera's Rule of Performance Automotive Ownership: A car is a hole suspended in midair by four, inedible doughnuts. Into this hole, you throw buckets of money, which disappear and which you will never see again.

Get his name and have his Rebello receipts ready. I find it very odd Rebello doing a turbo short block and it having a P79 on it... Where is the high dollar P90 it should have?

No information, no way to render aid. Broken tap I. That nut plate is NOT a cut and remove issue! Take the tap you broke to a grinder, make a bluntish flat-chisel out of what remains, taper it slightly so the thing is maybe 6-8mm wide with a 2mm wide "chisel" edge...flat and blunt. Put on your safety specs, hold it in a vice grips and put it in the center of the cross of the broken tap....RAP smartly with a 16oz hammer. The broken tap will shatter/break off the cutting flutes and be out of your hair to try again. This takes about 15 minutes including swearing and composing Oneself to the inevitable and grinding the remains into a suitable tool. Throw it in your box, it will come in handy later till you get the feeling of how to properly use a tap and lubricant.

Send in the rusty core for regrinding! Get the open chamber welded closed. Then put a Microsquirt into the stock ECU Box so everything looks legal and fuel away!

Well that kind of sucks. Good it's an N42... Plenty of boring available. A sleeve on the affected cylinder allows you to retain the stock bore and use relatively inexpensive ITM flat-top Pistons ($300?) That lets you spend the money on someone to weld the chambers closed, maybe port the head....an Isky cam and LPG AWAY!

The key on this is to get a 'sample lot' -- a lot that you are CLEAR they will be inspected and subjected to rigorous inspection to qualify the supplier for further production. Any forging dies you retain...it will cost money. They will give you a GREAT product on that test batch. Thing is, you close your company and reopen under another name as when you try it again the word will be out and they will screw you. The first runs to get you hooked are always great. It's after that they will 'cost down' the product without your approval nor prior knowledge. This is the biggest issue with doing any sort of ongoing business sourcing items out of China. EVERYTHING that happened to the guy in the book "(Poorly) Made in China" happened to me, and several other 'liason engineers'... I had an irritating knack of understanding cultural differences and exploiting them which they found insufferable...mainly because I boxed them in on their chicanery and could not escape. Things like coming in a taxi to the factory instead of their car. Arriving early or leaving extremely late and catching off-spec production or non-approved methods employed. I was withdrawn from the project there in Shanghai in 2012. Last year I was told to get a China Visa again, because we needed to review "installation, operation, and maintenance practices" due to a warranty cost for product higher than anywhere else in the world. I would get a sample run that would suit my needs for the foreseeable future and call it good. I would not go into production there unless I could personally oversee every facet of the operation from start to finish...and that's not the product they sell "leave it to us we will do it all!" Read that book: "(Poorly) Made in China"! http://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/2243198/poorly_made_in_china_an_insiders_account_of_the.pdf

Nice coolant line against the block! I just spent the $$$ to get a reproduction Parker Tube Beading Tool so I can roll Milspec beads in tubes from 5-63mm...

I was typing on my phone and fat fingered the enter instead of the comma. My mind had them sequentially as it is written now, but rather than backspace a shitload of times, I just hit enter instead of comma once more... I had no clue people would take it so literally. I meant top two hottest. I vote for shedding the thread becaus anything said here is....as I,posted initially, already clearly stated in the cooling system thread. That I responded to a "which is the best" troll indeed was my fault. I should not have fed the trolls.

******* Hell, there you guys go: "HOTTEST TWO" Happy now? Made for the kids looking at the picture books...sheesh! I like how "I'm Wrong" by explaining what I meant. And THIS, gentlemen, is why projects go on in secret these days... We survived before the internet, and we do just fine without it now, and the bevy of people who want to tell you how you're 'wrong' whilst explaining your meaning, your intent, to your words. Some people are just confused as hell with "Raster Display"...

"Hottest."

"Surely some people here have real experience with this and perhaps they've come up with different answers than I have through actual experimentation. ... There's a lot of info out there on this stuff, so read up." There might even be an FAQ on it in the Powertrain Forum, under L-Series... Someone owes me $20...

Well with the existence of that Hakotora kit now, making a Box Skyline front end to graft on to it won't be as daunting! LOL

A photo versus the actual temperature... "Hotter Two" versus "Coolest"

Generally they were a 0.250" jet 2" SU from a Jag. They would change the needle so basically after about 3/4 throttle the bottom three or four stations on the needle were completely out of the jet. The Position of the Floating piston determined the vacuum exposed on the jet and determined how much fuel was sucked through the jet orifice. a 1/4" hole can flow a LOT of fuel if you don't suck the float bowl dry or below a proper float level that keeps fuel right at the bridge to be sucked in easily. This is why guys used Hobbs Pressure switches after about 12-15psi to run through like a rochester jet in the line and start dumping more fuel directly into the throat of the carb. Just remember "carbs are easy"! Repeat that Mantra... I will repeat mine: "Click, Drag, Ctrl Arrow Up Up Up.... Click, Drag, Ctrl Arrow Down Down Down"! LOL "Been there, Done That!" You will be surprised how much HP you can get even from a single SU. On the Corvair 180's you got a low more torque, boost earlier, and around 200~220 HP. Uncorking the exhaust by dropping the Turbo Muffler (yes, that's where they came from, guys all wanted Corvair Turbo Mufflers on their cars!) and that's when the boost came on hard in the top end. Now, to the "Weber Carb"... it's a MISERABLE compromise. The ONLY way it works is to turn it into a progressive two barrel. Run a 45 DCOE with a split throttle shaft and a progressive linkage that brings the second barrel on in the last 1/4 of throttle play. Jet the first barrel for most of your driving and for a smooth transition into boost. Jet the second barrel (usually the one facing the front of the car, or towards the engine on a Z) for fuel dumping...HUGE main jet, and nothing in the idle system. Basically it only opens above a given throttle position and is not in play at all at idle, It comes on with a smaller than normal booster venturi to get the fuel flowing as the vacuum drops on the first barrel and it momentarily leans out. It usually transitions smoothly like that, and pulls like a banshee from there on. Using the Weber as a weber, you end up compromising way too much in terms of fueling as the mains have to be MUCH larger to fuel it under boost than you normally would have as an purely N/A car. Now, if you put that Weber Manifold on with a DCOE ITB.... NOW we're talking! Then you can run a couple of 720's in there and I lay money you will have more than enough fuel under boost. That should support around 250 280hp.... Likely a set of 550's would do you just fine. As for newer T3's I was the demented bastige who thought "Hey, if they can take those 280Z EFI's and put them on the Corvair 140's, the ZXT is rated at 180 HP as well, so why not?" Putting on a Datsun Turbo with internal wastegate transforms the Corvair Turbo. With turbine technology 20 years advanced it REALLY makes for a nice driving car. Similarly doing a proper T3 with internal wastegate will give you your terminal Pounds Per Hour the turbo can flow at max boost. This in turn will let you know what fueling you need to get Max HP, and then you size your jets or injectors accordingly. I feel you should be able to make something that looks VERY 'period correct' with that DCOE body (or the TWM Twin Injector SU Body) that should easily be in the 220 HP range reliably and drive quite nicely. With the addition of Methanol Injection like a hidden Snow arrangement you could probably bump that considerably as it would allow you to run much more advance and much more boost from the intercooling effects. You could keep the old school MSD 6BTM on there as an example of Old School, but hiding one of the new 1, 2, 3 Ignition Distributors would allow completely modern programmable MAP - Based 3D Timing map to be used and retain the look of a conventional distributor. This is totally doable and would make a great stealth conversion. The trick for me would be hiding the EFI bits so it looks totally carburetted. I have done one of these before where I simply gutted the SU straight through, and put two big honking 1100's in front of it (what does an 1100 look like different from a 280cc???) and it looked like one of those mid-80's AIC setups. The big injectors supplied all the fuel for the engine through an EMS tucked up behind the glove box. Ran better than the SU did...especially when cold! And you;re right, generally 10psi is about as far as you can reasonably go on the SU, but if you didn't Wastegate it your foot was your wastegate and a 2" SU would boost to 21 psi EASILY. On a Datsun you break pistons and blow head gaskets. On a VW or Overbored Corvair you split Jugs, or blow the head right off the engine pulling the head studs out of the case. That's a noise you never forget. And that is why "Case Savers" were invented!!!

There is an SU housing that takes two injectors if I'm not mistaken. Running two 1100CC injectors should be close to it... running a dual channel you could run a 550 or 720 in the front on the methanol injection spacer and basically use it for N/A operation at idle and then transition into the 1100 cc units on boost. It would be fairly easy to conceal, and updating to Methanol Injection as opposed to straight water would give some gains as well. I'm all for updating Crown Kits. You can add modern stuff and keep the period-vintage look. These worked pretty well if you took the time to sort them. The Corvair Turbo they used when Hybridized (right, hybrid turbos are a 'new concept' --- like 1965 huh?) with the early model 63/64 turbine and the later 180HP Compressor section would enhance boost response and allow boosting to 21psi without much effort through the 46mm SU... The downfall on that system was detonation as the jet couldn't flow enough fuel and they invariably ran lean around 17psi. You could tweak out to 21 with wiper fluid (methanol mix with water or straight methanol)... it's why most ran a wastegate as that Corvair Turbo uncorked really boosted until the engine blew from lack of fuel. They just sprayed more in the inlet to keep it all together. It would make a nice project IMO

Slip Joints were fine for Electramotive making 1,100 hp at 30 psi+.... just as a note of historical reference.

It's funny how someone repeats the same question over because he doesn't like the answer he's been given. I retapped mine EXACTLY as JC suggested and had no issues with the "floating nut"... What is the big problem here? Why can't you do this? As seattlejester suggests above, get the tap started straight and once it grabs you're home free. This is not rocket science.

Laugh if you will, they're not the same ones we got in the USA, and the reason the guys sold is likely because he found out a box made for 38mm Flat Tops won't really work on 45mm Export Carbs... The flat top is a superior carb. Investigate and you will see why I say this.

^^^^^^!^^^^^^

All I know is had I not been banned at a FB site, the "winning bid" would have been higher than what he got on eBay for it!

Crown-based but heavily modded. Don't know why they would change the crossover tube. Sadly, I see what they did, it was humping probably 21 psi or slightly above. They were spraying anti detonated in a fairly crude approach , but definitely high volume of anti detonant. Lots of this looks to be home fabricated emulations of commercially available technology of the time. Spearco had great water injection systems available then, and AN fittings predate the Z-car by at least 40~50 years!

I haven't seen many L-Series manifolds that are designed for prolonged boost usage. Those that are, generally have slip joints, expansion joints, or expansion loops. This goes for the stock cast iron units as well. The US and JDM were not expected to see more than occasional boost, and didn't have joints. Their maladies with warpage and stud breakage are well known. The Nissan Eurospec Turbo Manifold, however, had expansion joints as described and does not suffer from the warpage, stud breakage, etc when subjected to constant or sustained boost usage. You will see Mercedes TD's also have similar joints. Inline sixes usually have some expansion device incorporated on the longest of the runners. It's physics and engineering, same reason you see "Omega Loops" on a wellfield...thermal expansion on a hot summer day would lift the anchor blocks if there wasn't a device were that expansion could be taken up without adding undue stress and strain to other components.