Tony D

Yeah, a long straight road, a WBO2 datalogger, and a GTEC Fanatic Series Performance Computer would go a great way towards quantifying the changes made... For $299 that's not even half a day at the dyno, and you find soooo many cool things to do with it, too! LOL

Nice Price... Those don't have plenum interference issues with the rails like some ITB's do...

The bellows are one item, and the clamps are another.

JeffP's page is a bit disjointed he puts the stuff on several pages -- Page 6 & 11.... I thought for sure he noted it since Frank280ZX had pointed us in the right direction and JeffP found examples in the junk yard and then ordered them new from Mercedes in SoCal to install in his latest build. That is the manifold he is running now, modified for an external wastegate (see the story on that on Page 11 where he gets on me for my casual mentioning of manifold composition!) I know JeffP made a post about it, and gave the part number. I'm sure if you contacted him he could supply it... he ordered a buttload of them paranoid they would go away or something... http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page11.html

^^^^Yep, it really doesn't matter what you start with, in the end they have to be reamed to size so go with the stronger alternative. No Datto concours I know of drops pans to check rod bolt size!

Yeah, when I see guys asking about these parts and specific part numbers Jeff's page always pops into the back of my head "I thought JeffP put all that on his crankshaft bolt spiel?" Hahahaha, there you go, "part numbers"! LOL

One other thing to remember is that he DOES have the ability to move that cam timing around on the intake lobe. A static change equal to what the VTEC adds to the cam in terms of valve events moves that power band down considerably. Large cams can do interesting things at lower rpms simply by changing valve opening event times. The Exhaust is relatively inert in this game but could be matched to the intake. A series of dyno pulls with strict discipline on changing only one thing to baseline characteristic curves would gain a lot of knowledge in setup suggestions later on... I'm thinking there are at least 2,000 more rpms lower in the RPM band that may be available with a timing change experiment. No, it won't be a barn-burner up top at 9,000 rpms then but it would prove that with simple cam timing changes even mild builds would be able to benefit. Slip a link on an L-Series and watch what happens to your power band. It's an interesting exercise and really eye-opening.

^^^^ Trust me Bryan, that's not the first time someone has said that first number there! LOL The KA head is so much better than the RB when looking at N/A applications, the fanboi's that are stuck on the RB just don't get that the RB26 is not meant to be N/A and it's chamber is just all wrong for N/A applications. The KA and RB25DE heads are FAR better candidates for N/A Performance. The Honda guys consider 10:1 "low compression for Turbo Applications" and as Derek points out with the little quench pads and some simple piston work it's relatively easy to get to 10:1 and turbo it for some really nice useable street power.

That's where that photo came from! Togue Factory: "Add Bellows on #1 and #6!"

CU is cool in Philippines. Almost every Jeepney runs on condenser coil tubing, no problem. It doesn't rust/corrode.

You need to determine the plastic used. It will be on a symbol on the manifold per CE recycling requirements. The issue is some plastics will 'weep' and any glue used on them will eventually lift. Like PE. In this case, you 'plastic weld' bungs of sufficient thickness and then drill/tap the manifold to accept what you want. Once you know what the manifold is made from, you can determine bonding and joining techniques.

Extreme 280Z Webpage by JeffP.

I thought this was answered elsewhere.... Your rods are getting sized, buy 9's and have them reamed appropriately.

"Did you put forged pistons in that thing? You will be sorry." Tony D to Bryan Blake after his triple itb cammed engine was up and running.... I posit, this will be similar. It's way too much head for the L28 in base form unless you twist it tight. But if you can twist, this thing is going to SING! One thing which will be interesting is to get feedback on what difference the compression being low has overall. In VW's it was really overplayed and many of the best performance engines were in the high 7's to make the heat manageable, especially on the street. The torque you get down low is nice... but really it may not pay as big a dividend as many think. Other than to the High Test Gas Company!

All particulars were on JeffP's Extreme 280ZXT Page I believe... Photos and all. Another thing Japanese Builders do is eliminate the Woodruff key, and put in a single slot and traditional key to prevent the failures related to the Woodruff going wobbly.

The float issue would be dependent on if you have all the stock stuff in there. The rationale behind the head was the copious aftermarket support for good things made of Titanium and other lightweight materials. There are billet rockers, titanium retainers and spring keepers, valves that are feather light.... Frankly, it may really be overkill for the bottom-end restrictions of the L-Series but there may be some durability advantages to some of those billet followers they make...who knows? With all stock, I would assume same float not that I've heard a lot of issues with valve float on the Hondas. Their valve train seems to be very stable. The caveat on free-revving relates to pumping the oil out of the pan and starving the bottom end. On a VW Type1 it's not an issue in stock form. But put a lightened flywheel and hot cam with some induction and not increase that 2.5 qt sump and it is VERY easy even under load to accelerate the engine fast enough to suck the sump free of oil and pump it to the top end before it can physically drain back from the far reaches of the engine. Engines blowing at the top end of the drag race track can sometimes be traced to it... those deep 7QT sumps came out for a reason, aside from lowering the level away from the crank for decreased windage. The BMW Engine recently had issues with it. They dubbed it the "Damocles Engine" due to owners hot-rodding free-revving. Thing is the tach needle had more inertia than the rotating assembly and "Boom!" Our Bonneville L28 would go from idle to 8,000+ faster than you think giving a WOT mash of the throttle. In fact, the cam we had in the SOHC Head was stable without float issues to over 12,500 rpms. If your tuning in right, it should zing right up there... http://autoweek.com/article/car-news/munich-we-have-problem-cadre-owners-raises-browand-stinkover-m3-engines-gone-bad

You have likely found your torque peak right now... That's the curse of the Honda's, the induction bark is FAR louder than the exhaust. CHP continually cites Hondas for "illegal exhaust" due to the noise and when tested it's rarely over 85-90 dbA... it's all induction bark. "It will be louder and lower under load"!

Like it or not, the S30 was designed as a RHD car...and it shows. Yes the oil filter and starter by the header would not be good..(unless you liked your 68 Charger...)..reeeeally tight on that side of the Zcar. Wanna cooked speedo cable? Plenty of room on the other side, though. No worries!

That was my information as well, the 90X90 was a custom crank unit, not a modified unit from another engine.

I actually have two photo documented head changes like this, one on my 260Z the day before driving 18,000 miles in a three week trek, the other in a LeMons thrash... I straddle the towers and just lift the head with manifolds attached. After I suggested to JeffP there is no reason to pull all that stuff for only a head gasket change...he whined because he had girly arms and couldn't manually lift the assembly... "Well son, that's why you got a lifting strap, a 2x12 rafter in your garage, and that fancy come-along there. I don't think,JeffP called me over to help lift a head after that. Or anybody else for that matter. Growing up in the frozen tundra makes one self sufficient in terms of mechanical repairs...

This is a 3"+ exhaust....right?

Les Collins Racing in Australia is producing L34's for some time. Think it's 90x90... Make an order and wait for delivery! In fact, search for videos of "The Green Monster"

A cowl induction hood solves that hood clearance issue as well, no?

Can't move enough air. I can tell you with the noncrossflow head we had, the L20A was still good at 12,000+ rpms doing Valvetrain stability testing... This head exceeds that head's flow numbers by close to 40% (and not the 300% as claimed on some websites already touting this head with BS and insane salesmen's gibberish!) That being said, there's nothing that says a run with smaller ports couldn't be done given the core technology used. Maybe use a set of B16 valves which would roughly accommodate similar swept volume per cylinder. Short stroke on that L20A is a real natural buzzer when it comes to RPM's. You would never punch it out to 2300 like in Japan with that head on it...thinking everybody would attribute the added performance to the fancy head and not an illegal over-capacity displacement. That would be against the rules, and deceptive....

There's this nice sequential box out of Australia that's good to 1000 ft-lbs...