Tony D

how did you anneal them, it's not the same as annealing iron/steel... in fact, the process is the direct opposite! To anneal copper you heat it red hot with a torch and then drop it in chilled water. DIRECT opposite of annealing iron/steel alloys. If you let it air cool, you HARDENED the copper washer. Don't know what you did, but thought for the record it might be helpful to point out this important difference. I've annealed copper crush rings countless times and reused them. Rarely will I buy new anymore.

Any receiver dryer from any 1973 Chevrolet will have flared fittings. You telling me Chevrolet parts suddenly have dried up? You are stuck in the "Datsun Box" and ordering accordingly. My Suzuki used a Kia Condenser, and a Toyota Accumulator, and is running R12 (1994 Model) because it's still relatively cheap and efficient in other places of the world!

My Trust header has been on a 240Z since 1978, and I took possession of the system in 1986 when the owner went another direction with the car...

The Turbo Possibilities on this setup with even a short stroke L28 crank and a cleaned up bore for true-round will be something. GT42 is a very small starting point with no intake over it, top mount twins is a distinct possibility for some real big flow. Stock these ports flow near 300 cfm... at 8psi calculate your pounds-per hour and you will get an idea of power potential, and having turbos that spool at 3500 and go go go to 9000+ is one hell of a power band... As stroker just gives you more torque down low.

Move quickly I only have enough for three left in the bank now, and that is quickly being frittered away on foreign investments...

50 mm Jenvey's and only 10.8:1 CR? 470HP? BULLSHITE! No way no how, not in a million years. Someone tweaked the dyno constants for a good HP result. Totally BS. That head can run 12:1 on pump gas, running 10:8 I might believe a TURBO setup got them 470hp, but not NA, and not with only 50mm ITBS!

Any reason for the objection to the poly pieces which are not subject to degradation like the original units?

I would digress from the above statement in only one respect: the Condenser and Accumulator is outdated/undersized, and agree the blower fan is inadequate for proper interior heat transfer. Retrofit the largest MODERN condenser you can get, and find a receiver/drier/accumulator that is about twice the size of what came stock. In traffic, with a stock fan and shroud, along with auxillary pusher fans in front of the condenser to keep air flowing you will be rewarded with cool air from the registers even at 48 degrees at 11AM at low speeds. The compressor is actually oversized, and it's the heat rejection side of the equation that is weak for your area. As an example, I replaced the condenser on my Suzuki Every with one from a Kia Starex, all ng with the larger accumulator repositioned closer to the evaporator. The rest of the system remained the same. People can't believe the system blows 4 degree air at idle, in traffic, on a 42 degree day! Putting double limo tint on your windows with a UV rating, and louvre the back hatch and itbreally decreases the heat load inside the car as well. Upsizing to a Honda Blower will increase air turnover inside the car through the evaporator and get that interior cool. I used a modified fan housing and a 280ZX Fan on my 260Z myself, but the Honda fan may be easier to find in your case. Good Luck, a three or four core radiator along with a 72C thermostat will aid with the extra heat load across the radiator from the condenser being there.

220~250 cfm per intake vs 240~320 cfm (or 400+ Potentially on Derek's Head) And the displacement to effectively process that airflow. A 3.4 will need about 9,000 rpms to use 320 cfm...

Hahaha.. .this was funny to read.

So I take it they are not stainless steel supertrapps slung under the tank then... There were some photos I posted of the rally cars and the shield they had under the stock tank. It attached to the pipes somewhat like the later model 280Z mufflers had an integral muffler heat shield along with the physical shield between the tank and muffler that secured to the package shelf floor.

"Been there, done that."

No, they did not. You guys realise on a single overhead cam engine, you don't do "variable valve timing" because there's no way to alter the phase relationship of intake and exhaust cams on the same cam blank, right? Please, someone ... anyone ... restore my faith!

My bone stock 330,000 mile L28E in a 76 Fairlady Z 2/2 with me in it weighing 2695# on the track's scale ran 15.50 all night long around 90mph... 26 passes at the San Antonio ZCON. Had a ratty crush-bent 2.5" exhaust at the time which likely was equivalent to the stock setup... The dyno said 147 hp, that 1/4 mile time said something else. Oh, I did have a K&N filter in the stock box (I took off the CAI because it was annoyingly loud for my driving...) Exhaust was quieter than stock, too! The EFI was the CA Spec setup off the Bonneville car that had 176,000 miles on it when we stripped it off the car... I tuned it up to stock specs. There was a guy with a Silver stateside 76 Coupe with a Big Throat, CAI, Header and Exhaust and I think an MSD 6 box in it along with a ton of chrome who was running 16.74 all night long, the last 13-14 passes directly against me to the point he was becoming foul and swearing at me.... I "had" to have put a cam in it because his blingwagen couldn't get better than 16,70 all night long. American cars are way overgeared for what they do. People put all this emphasis on magic bullet bolt on crap and disregard the tuning of the system. For the record, the K&N Filter in the stock housing was as fast as it was with the noisy CAI and cone filter on it! Exhaust. A Mandrel-Bent 3" is barely enough for a stock L24 to get optimal flow...yet everybody says 2.5" mandrel bent. Why? Because it's easier to package. The original TRUST exhaust for 2-liters and 2.4's was twin 50mm pipes... which is about 71mm flow capacity... 2.8" when they converted to a single pipe they universally went to 75mm pipe... coincidence? The stock manifold put to a 2.5,twin 50, or 3" pipe will have more HP than stock, with no issues on "the bottom end"... For all this performance add-ons... anybody actually quantify them back-to-back on their car with a dyno or 1/4mile consistency check (a good example was Norm with the SU's as he knew what his car ran, and could see what mods did...) As Zetsaz says, and I agree in this case if a swap is in order: Spend your money on the chassis and leave the engine alone. There's no payback!

There is a fuel pressure sending unit for some OEM EFI systems that runs on the same 5V power... pretty accurate and used in the newer systems to trim injector pulsewidth for proper emissions calibration. They also have a temperature sensor, so basically they are now calculating BTU content of the fuel by density and adjusting accordingly. A little circuit board work, and you could have a nice accurate gauge (might be something out there already...) Far better than most analog gauges I've seen/tested in the engine bays on most cars. FWIW

The projection is the British Pound will BELOW 1:1 (like Canadian and Australian $'s right now...) MEANING: if you bide your time, it's possible these things may be in the mid-low $200's per-piece within a couple of months! I was ready at Wolf EFI's $325 per body....but saving close to $100 per (they are 240 sterling each or thereabouts right now...)

Log Back IN For some reason it logs you out and you have to log back in on iDevices from time to time, especially if you use your laptop for a while and not the phone.

Turbo touched off, and the impeller is wrecked. Pull your inlet to the turbo and feel the impeller, likely it's really sloppy now... Smoke likely coming from damaged turbine seals, if it does free itself up when it comes on boost it will be with a rather loud "WOOOOO WOOOOOO!" noise instead of the turbine sound previously. The oil smoke will only get worse, and in very short order if you get the turbine rotating again... Time for a new turbo is my bet. If that was a stock turbo, my guess is you didn't read the warnings about operation above 13psi as they don't last long, even when refitted with a 180 degree thrust bearing.

Each drip is (more useless knowledge) approximately 2cc's. You can account for your losses there almost entirely I'd bet (especially if you don't see smoke on startup or after decel/flogging it...)

They're blowing smoke. See above 'lower limit' general rule of thumb. If you want to read something, read things about the relationship between compression ratio and ultimate torque or horsepower produced. A key thing to know is you don't lose as much as you would think from low compression. If you have tuned the engine properly the falloff will be very, very little even if extreme.

^^^^In the above ramble, you note I say "on my gauge"... don't discount the fact that your gauge may be significantly off. That old gauge is about the only intact 'cheap compression gauge' I still owned at the time. Nowadays I buy Harbor Freight compression testing sets and throw the gauges away. I replace them with liquid filled High-Accuracy gauges which oftentimes give SIGNIFICANTLY different readings than the gauges that came with the set. While any cheap gauge can give you accurate differential, I would not trust them as far as I could throw them insofar as reading ultimate cylinder pressure. I have linked in the past to Dwyer Instruments Electronic Test Gauge... It's about $60 which is more than most guys spend on their compression tester, if you are interested in ACCURATE numbers, buy one of them and fit it to whatever SCREW-IN compression tester bits you have on-hand. A great second choice is a 0-250 psi 4" Gauge Liquid Filled Ashcroft. I like the Dwyer since it's accurate within 0.1% of scale chosen, has a huge range, and you can select your units: PSI, kPa, KgC, Bar.... It's also rubber armored for minimal bumping around. Buying a REAL calibrated, large diameter calibrated gauge is the best thing you can do to get good compression testing readings from any compression tester, even a cheap Harbor Freight one you bought on sale for $9.99 the accessories are what you're buying---the gauge is where the real costs lie! Because the leakdown tester is a relative measurement, the quality of the gauges is almost irrelevant. Harbor Freight sells them as well. For the cost of the Dwyer Gauge, an HF Compression Tester, and the HF Cylinder Leakdown Tester you can have a very accurate diagnostic set. Most importantly, one whose ultimate readings you can trust.

Lower Limit is around 100 psi... "Around" -- meaning as said above if it's not objectionable in oil consumption or smoking it is usually better off with what is in there from Nissan than whatever you put in now. They start having issues starting once they drop below 90 psi. Valve Seals can suck oil like you wouldn't believe. My 76 runs 185 psi (on my gauge) and that was at 225,000 miles. It could take 3,000 miles to suck down a quart, or it could go in a day at the Auto-X... When I drove the car cross country on interstates, it didn't use a quart (just above "low" from "full" on dipstick) from LA to Detroit. In the next two weeks driving two-lanes in Canada having to be on and off the throttle passing logging trucks, etc I was down TWO quarts in under 900 miles! Engine would smoke on startup, if you were behind it you could smell oil burning but not see smoke continually. With the compression, I've left it that way and added another 100,000 miles on that engine. The economics of a rebuild are RARELY justified by oil consumption. BRILLIANT marketing and parts sales job on the part of the OEM's! BRILLIANT! You look at the cost of your oil: a quart every 1000 miles is 100 quarts in 100K, it's 200 quarts in 100K, even at a quart every 250 miles it's what? 400 quarts in 100K miles? If you are daily driving it and put 10Kmiles on it annually....even at a quart every 250 miles you are looking at a cost of a quart of oil X 40 per YEAR to just run what you have! In my case, with 185 psi (on my gauge), and spinning 147 HP to the rear wheels bone stock, there is hardly any reason to mess with what is in there! It SOUNDS bad. It may LOOK bad... But when you actually start thinking about it.... If you drive more like most people here (infrequently, or weekends) you are talking maybe 400 miles on a weekend, around 2~3,000 miles a year your oil costs are 1/3 what they are as a normal commuter... Against a $3,500 overhaul... (And I mean GOOD PARTS DONE RIGHT OVERHAUL) Just something to think about. That additional 100K I've put on my 76 has cost me $200 in additional oil costs over around 10 years... $20 A YEAR. If you have valve seals, doing those on the car by yourself may be about the only thing justified! My 74 260Z is similarly compressioned, I don't know because of rings or L28 N47 head on it... but it runs great and I was commuting in it daily. Similar consumption on highway <qt in 3K miles, and if I go to the AutoX maybe 1/4 qt in a 500 mile AutoX Weekend. A lot less oil consumption, but "low compression"---by all accounts something that 'should be attended to" as shop owners might say... But as a bone stock L26 it's spinning 126 to the rear wheels, has 125 psi on the cylinders (changed head gasket 100K ago because exhaust valves were leaking and had 100/100 on cyl 3 & 4... Never checked after the gasket change and valve relap... All I know is I've driven it that 100K without a hitch and the "low compression" has my stock L26 running a dyno just as good as many stock L28's I see... Like I said, OEM Marketing has brainwashed a whole industry to do things they really don't think about... and when you do the engineering analysis, the loss of performance or additional oil costs just don't cut it. Note recently when Porsche went to Mobil-1 Synthetic from the START (no more 'break in oil') they just said "from an engineering standpoint we can not justify the additional wear imparted on the engine internals which means less lifetime. It is a performance engine, just accept it will consume 1.5L per 5000 km." It's a performance engine, just accept it will consume 1.5 L per 5,000 km. They decided the extra 30,000 miles scraped off the cylinder walls was not worth the performance increase seen. Similarly BMW surveys showed the engines continually gaining power up to 30,000 miles... due to seating of the rings very gradually. The realization that they WILL indeed seat opened people's eyes that the rush break in they get really just shortens engine life. With the cost of repairs, they have to make the engines run longer between overhauls---and much of this honestly is driven by emissions warranties now going out to 100K 10 years. It now makes sense that they seat gradually now that oils have no catalyst-poisoning components in the additive packages. The rush to seat rings is a holdover from domestic machining properties, cheap repair costs and the desire to move parts in the aftermarket...along with non-catalyst engine operation with high zinc and phosphorous oils... "RUN IT!"

Wild thought, use the part number and see what your local Nissan Dealer (or Courtesy Parts in Texas...) wants for a new one from Nissan. Regional pricing in the USA makes parts cheaper than in Japan sometimes...sometimes surprisingly so.

In short, any aftermarket panel will require trimming to get what you want anywhere near an OEM result.

Someone was in a long and drawn out project converting their existing Webers to ITB's with me providing the links for the already available DOCE TPS brackets, and him having made some very nice tapered inserts to eliminate the venturis internally.... he had just bumped the thread the day after I found out about these, so of course.... when he looked at the thread update in the morning I can imagine the words he had for my update! LOL All that work, and now you can just buy them for $325 each! LOL