Tony D

Holy Resemblances, Bruce! It's the BATMANIFOLD!

When the carbs make 800HP+ on an L28, come let me know. Till then, EFI is King.

DPAN... My only regret getting banned there was I missed the HKS SU Blow Through Surge Tank that was up for sale. Whomever was selling lost money, I would have gone much higher!

Its very simple: put the 72c in during spring and run all summer, come on e the days are reliably below 20c switch back to the 82c unit for the run through the winter (sometimes cardboarding up half the radiator...) It's good to flush coolant at least once and a while as it goes acidic. Gives me plenty of ground squirrel and stray poison...

Speaking of the devil, there's a little experience from the Corvair Side of my personality just popped up regarding failed rocker arms. I can't fathom why someone would not use factory GM Parts....but it led into a discussion about "Custom Chinese Crankshafts" updated within the past three years... Interesting story and links: https://flycorvair.net/2012/01/15/chinese-crankshafts/

Ohhh, that's a nice tip TZ! Thanks...

Use the cam as a core. Have it reground with a real performance profile using a lift around 460" It will be better than any result you will get using the "A" cams in their current form.

Yes

MYBONER

No guns, wouldn't want to attract attention. I can do what I want "three strikes you're out" style and have the holes filled before sunrise. Don't get caught robbing a man with a Kubota L260 and 2.5 acres of barren dirt and old cars to push over your new grave to explain no weeds growing there... Like I told the code enforcement guy: "I'll bury you and your county vehicle so deep even my dogs won't dig you up!" I think it's time for me to watch "Legends of the Fall" again....

Oh where were you before the last scrap run?

Best you just put it on the rail, that's where the big pulsations come from... And yes, JeffP tried it in multiple places and ended up on the rail as a matter of convenient inspection. (Plus he repiped under the car in 1/2" Stainless so.....)

"a smaller pipe would keep the pressure up"... Remember my words regarding turbocharging always: "PRESSURE IS MERELY A REFLECTION OF RESISTANCE TO FLOW" You don't WANT the speed, nor the pressure "up"! You want it flowing with as little loss as possible at the highest density possible.

He's hitting the same runner and same surface in each test I looked at, giving a plausible delta. It's not the gold he was hitting, and was not Stainless Steel either, taking out the two largest potential emissivity offenders....but since the surface was lamp blacked, even if it was Gold or SS the paint would standardize the emissivity result. Now, if he had a top end IR Gun, there are emissivity adjustments you can make... The way he set up the profile, it's not affected by emissivity changes and with the lamp black, probably more accurate than raw manifold numbers!

My 0.2¢... If you drive like a geriatric then a VW diesel might be a good Hybrid Idea.... I blew apart my alternator windings with the stock pulley.... If you access JeffP's Extreme 280ZXT page on Angelfire, go to his alternator section. If you physically increase the diameter of the alternator you mechanically gain some generation advantages. Because of his electrical demand he needed something producing more amps at idle than most stock 240 alternators delivered at 4,000 rpms! He accomplished it. The pulley will spin it faster, but that is not the answer. If you seriously need serious amperes at idle, a larger diameter alternator is your answer. The rpm limit of 7,000 puts the alternator at 10,000+

Asymmetrical Cams refer to how the ramps are ground. Please change your title and terminology to 'Split-Duration' which is what you are asking about. Split Duration Cams are very good at what they do. Look up "Split Duration Cams" and not Asymetric" and you should find a lot more out that what your original parameters were.... For a 'racer' there are advantages for torque...Serious Racers will have a cam cut for their engine, it doesn't cost any more and the advantages are manyfold. Power is in the Head. Always has been. Get induction and cam right and you're golden. Don't just buy off the shelf.

Way too much overthinking. Put a thread insert into it and be done with it. Whatever size. The nut plate is a minimum 10mm thick, that is the largest bolt it will support. Put a case-saver or thread zert in there or double helicoil... There is nothing here requiring anything to be cut out and welded nor replaced. Argh!

First, it's not a 'choke' it's a 'starter system'... It does not 'choke' anything, but rather admits more fuel than normal by altering the jet position. If you have pulled it all the way down to get it to start, my bet is that one or both of the nozzles are stuck in the down position and that is why you chug chug chug after it's disengaged. Go stick you hands under the carbs and tracing the cables, find the jets and, after pushing the lever in the centre console all the way forward (off) go out push the jets up against the bottom of the carbs where they should be... see what happens. Likely they are sticky. Now that it's solved, watch the SU Therapy Video and find out how to fix it.

No 3X, you discriminating bastards....

A non-rolling "Condition 7" PARTS CAR is now valued at $2,500 with a clapped out engine and in need of total mechanical repair. Don't invest too much credence on what idiots on FB say, they are clueless. Especially in the US Market where it's inhabited by inveterate bottom-feeders and cheapskates. That being said, who really cares what anybody else thinks YOU should have paid for YOUR car. Many are just jealous that people who have some money can spend it... they're simply too cheap or not in a position to buy at the market price and therefore snipe. I personally passed on a 1971 Z432 in 1985 for $3,200 because I could buy a nice late-model S30 for $2400 off a lot with two year JCI inspection. Everybody (the local 'experts') there told me the "old car" was nothing but problems because it was a one-year inspection, blah blah blah... Let me see, a 1975 Fairlady Z is worth what now? A 1971 Z432 is worth what now? I should have told the "Experts" to FOAD and bought the car like I wanted to do and not let others influence my purchase!

A straight 'breather' off the top would do both things, vent and break vacuum. The diverter valve is the device that separates the common line 13 into doing two things at a specific pressure or vacuum level. I don't know exactly how 13 goes to the intake... in my mind this is a 'must' through the crankcase as you can't just have crankcase vacuum sucking on the tank...hence the diverter valve popping over to the intake filter when the vacuum is sensed. A straight tube to the crankcase would be exposed to vacuum and likely exacerbate fuel feed issues when hot. The diverter valve provides the vacuum-breaker action that allows the line 13 to then vent the tank directly to the intake filter or little remote filter in the back)... Worst case, putting the diverter valve up above the tank, and letting BOTH of the lines dangle outside the car with little filters on them would allow the tank t o pressure up slightly, and once the car sucked out enough fuel admit air when necessary to prevent a properly-sealed system from sucking the filler neck flat from highway driving. Keep in mind with the later EFI cars the EVAP canister valves on the top of the can provided these functions and as I recall they permitted quite a bit more pressure in the tank to promote a 'flooded inlet' situation with the EFI pump and it's hard draw. There is an FSM test for those as well, and the pressures are called out. Worth investigating closer if so inclined.

Aux Air Regulator controls fast idle during warmup.

An L28 is dead at 5300 which is why they were geared for that at top speed. If you want more power on the top end, you will need a real cam, and not something from another L-Series. Even the early heads from the L24 are not going to make that much of a measurable difference in performance gain.

Arming your car alarm in the garage is highly recommended. . .

I actually have a guy that passes by to pick up my mail and forward it if I need it. He actually was in the house to get mail for me earlier that day. The neighbors thought it was him they saw initially, but no recognizable truck. He works odd hours, so is usually around the house in the evening or very early morning. Since he stopped and checked on the house that night going into work, he didn't stop on the way home that evening...another lucky thing as he would have rolled up on them in-the-act and he usually rolls armed. He would have been busy digging holes and moving cars to explain why no grass was growing in a particular area had he rolled up on them then...