Tony D

CFR Rinkens will do it, they have ships to Europe leaving all the time from many different ports and a proprietary car shipping system for containerised vehicles second to none. I have shipped with them before on many occasions, and I think that is who I recommended Villeman use as well. I don't know how it is since Brexit, the trick was to import to Netherlands so as to be tax exempt, then run the NL rego into UK for decreased tax exposure. There was some stuff going on like that through Shannon or other Irish ports as well... Most of my stuff goes to NL.

BTW, is this the same JWT car you were diagnosing with AFR issues in 2014? (Shoots 2-Foot Flames) I gotta ask ..

You say 'see track time'... Lets cut to the chase: Will you install FORGED PISTONS and put in a large camshaft to be able to rev to 8000 rpms? If you are running cast pistons and the engine will never see more than 7000, 7,400 keep your four barrel. I bought my set of HKS 45 mm ITB's off a guy in the Bay Area who sniped them off me, and installed them on his 3.2 stroker. Thing was, it was a cast piston job like so many Americans cheap out on, and therefore was limited to 7,000 rpms. All said and done, he had minimal gains from the HKS with a lot of packaging issues that he didn't have when compared to his former four barrel setup. so I bought the setup off of him, after he reinstalled his four barrel. If anybody cares to recall, my testing back in the 90's revealed disparity after 6500 rpms when using the four barrel. With cast pistons, it will work fine. There will be a minimal performance gain. If you build a proper L-Series, there will be no comparison hands down itbs will be the way to go. We were up over 80HP over our four barrel at 7,600, and even more at 8250 rpms when using ITBs over 45 DCOE or 4 Barrel. If it's going to have cast pistons, and be limited to 7,000 rpms, save your money. Keep what you got. Or put an Atomic EFI on there. you can do an air door and Megasquirt if you think you can handle the tuning...just make sure you set up the secondaries on a proper progression so you maintain a proper MAP signal and don't always drop to zero every time you touch the throttle pedal! You will thank me in fuel mileage remembering that...

I got to ask on that mikuni/weber pattern... is the mounting face set so the flange is 5 degrees up, when mounted on the engine in the car? Technically that is how they are supposed to be for the floats to work correctly, on an ITB it won't make a difference. It appears angled, but can't tell if it's to make the carbs horizontal, or 5 degrees up from horizontal when in the car... I can be so difficult at times. 44s? argh. way small. gonna strangle that head with those baby carbs!

the JWT 500 tune is pig rich unless you have had a custom burn. JeffP was blowing smoke on his at 25psi. It took a run to JWT and Clark reworking the map to get it leaned out properly. My bet is your map is the issue. It sounds just like all the other ones I've seen... likely I would doubt your AFR gauge, and verify that. Jeff's was in the 10:1 or lower area, and if you don't see smoke you aren't below 10:1... My 2 cents...

which one do you have BTW, the L28 or L20E dual plate body? In US terms, the primary body is around the size of a Dime on the L20E and the size of a Nickel for an L28E... Maybe 15mm vs 25mm? Total flow in both cases is equivalent to the single 50 used on the other intakes. they TBs as stated are completely interchangeable.

I wouldn't bother with the twin plate... all it does it give you resolution. At about 3/4 throttle, the secondary plate will start to open and go from full closed to full open in the last 26% of pedal travel. That likely will not coincide with when boost comes on, so that small plate will act as a big restriction to the incoming flow from the turbo... The thing to consider is the runner length, really. the P65 has those runners that are long like a diesel intake, and were used on the heavier Cedric, Gloria, and Leopard Sedans.Coupes. THAT would be the one to run. With the single big plate. The throttle body fits on any of the intakes, you will see all the intakes have the teardrop shape to accomodate the upper small throttle plate. That TB can be retrofit easily with any of the single plate units. A 50 mm body will work fine. if you use a larger 60mm plate, I'd recommend non-linear throttle quadrant and cable throttle application to modulate the tip-in better in a slippery or muddy condition.

why? One quick way to lose friends is to blindly introduce people to them with no good reason.

I found jargon, especially with engineering stuff gets some peoples eyes glazed. "Ramp Rate" was something people could understand--you did and that was the point. We are discussing a 'mild race build'.... That's analogous to 'Ramp Rate' agreed? "If you overfeed the fish, the water becomes cloudy." I wasn't being a jackass, just direct. Some say I could be Dutch.

And any knowledgeable ZXR buyer will likely already have the list and check it... For the neophyte buyers, downloading the PDF and attaching it to your ad will help reinforce whatever asking price you should decide upon. See above Frank280ZXT? I took the list with me when I picked up his in SoCal. I verified the VIN as a real ZXR, paid the man the $500 and were on our way. So last ZXR I bought in pristine, rust free complete condition with under 50,000 miles on it sold for $500. Without the VIN sheet to verify it, the offer would have been 1/2 that...

Squid did you do a before and after dyno run? It was pretty much shown with flow bench data the shorter cleaned up runner significantly improved flow. Nobody has quantified that improvement yet and at this point only JeffP has significant repeatable information on his setup to do a comparo by using my manifold in place of his stock extrude-honed ZXT unit.... His Senza Manifold is more a plenum that bolts on over his new ITB setup.

"Forging Numbers"...none of them are cast, they are all forged and the numbers are die numbers used in the forging process...

Whittle Rings are stainless. I don't know of any block sealing head gasket that uses anything but stainless steel or monel/inconel fire ring,

Any four speed is 1:1 in 4th.

Download the attached list to prove its a ZXR and proceed.

Heating it to release sealant. Heating it to release sealant. Heating it to release sealant. Reinstall properly, do not overtorque. Reinstall properly, do not overtorque. Reinstall properly, do not overtorque.

Well, you got what I was going to suggest: valve lash. If those mm numbers are right you were way tight making vacuum go to crap at idle and that will do it! If you don't get the O2 light, you need to check the o2 sensor wiring as it should start switching after a few seconds at the higher rpm and continue till the sensor cools off.

Well, there were oracles in the crowd...

That's not what I said, read it again. You just repeated my complete context by misquoting it. Good for you.

Don't wrap, blanket. Surface temps can be red hot. To brilliant yello-white hot... Anything short of ceramic coating will likely just burn off if you boost for extended periods.

JeffP used them making 475 rwhp at 17# ... I think they will work fine for you...

0.051" Monel Wire in a mating groove machined in the manifold face. Held in with either a dab of red RTV or clear packing tape across the flange when installed whichever time allows.

And the vacuum lines are switched by temperature to enable the EGR once above 170F

Everything here has totally missed the boat IMO. Where is the flow data for your head? Where does the head stop flowing more air with more lift? THERE is where you START. Adding lift beyond that point is a calculation of the increased ramp rate to get the valve to peak flow as fast as possible for as long as possible but has relatively limited advantage. Basically, if your head capable of even flowing more air past the limits of a 470/480" lift? If not, more lift won't give you anything for the costs and effort to install it.

^^^Yeah, that hardened the washer... Crush Washers are very high pressure tolerant when clean. Make sure what you're assembling is clean clean clean, and torque the fittings properly to seat the banjo into the copper and the copper against the clean dry turbo machined surface. I have seen turbos with the old crush washers stuck on them, where people tried to seal over another washer...doesn't work! Blow everything off with contact or brake cleaner and watch exactly where the leak comes from...it may be from somewhere else and migrating to look like it is coming off the crush washer.